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Everything posted by AndrewRaastad

  1. Mike, Just downloaded and installed the application. Looks nice and a great tool to have available when at the store (particularly the board foot calc), but I have noticed a small bug, at least on my phone (Android 2). On any of the screens where there is a pull down selector (ie: Thickness or Species on BF calc) the options can't be seen. The options text is the same color as the background of the list. It appears all the selections are there and I can tap on a selection to pick it, but I don't know what the options are *until* I tap one and the popup goes away. I hope this is a good
  2. This past weekend I finished a project I have been working on now (weekends and whenever I could get time during the week) for the past 3 months. It is a Light Box for my Masonic Lodge, Pinal Lodge #30, in Casa Grande, AZ. We have a light in our Lodge, that was either made or purchased quite some time ago, that for quite a while now we all have felt is an eyesore though no one had any ideas what to do about it. Well, a few months back I came into possession of a couple opaque panels with Masonic symbols on them, which I thought would make a great light box to replace this current light in
  3. Well, three months later, I have finally finished the project. I thank everyone here who offered help and suggestions, it's always great to get the benefit of other's experience when facing a problem, issue, or hurdle. Please take a gander at your convenience: Thanks again! -- Andrew
  4. AndrewRaastad

    In the Lodge

    From the album: Masonic Light Box

    Three months from concept to on the wall.
  5. AndrewRaastad

    Masonic Light Box

    A light box I created for my Masonic Lodge. I wanted to do something to put into practice many of the skills I have learned, and the help I have received, via many of the great people on this site and forums. And as my Lodge is approaching its 100th anniversary, I wanted it to be something special.
  6. AndrewRaastad

    Finished Light Box

    From the album: Masonic Light Box

    The completed box with top and some trim.
  7. From the album: Masonic Light Box

    With the front face done, the sides and bottom in place with the internal vertical supports, all the electronics and lights can now be secured inside.
  8. From the album: Masonic Light Box

    Last of the glue-up for the front face, all the panels in place.
  9. AndrewRaastad

    Beginning Assembly

    From the album: Masonic Light Box

    Stained the front face pieces and beginning to assemble the framework to hold the panels.
  10. AndrewRaastad

    Dry Assembly

    From the album: Masonic Light Box

    Assembled all the framework pieces, small wood panels and Symbol panels to see how the finished face will look. The left panel (at top) is not yet finished at this point.
  11. AndrewRaastad

    Front Framework

    From the album: Masonic Light Box

    Dry assembly of the front framework.
  12. AndrewRaastad

    Bits and Pieces

    From the album: Masonic Light Box

    All the pieces to make the front face, cut to length, with tongue and grooves.
  13. Thanks for all the feedback so far, but I have decided to alter my design a bit, make it a little simpler the first time out as it were. I have decided to do away with the inner ring piece, just sticking with the outer ring, and somewhat hollow out the outer ring (the weight comment kept pinging around my brain). I have attached new screen captures of my revised idea and once again would like your thoughts. In the first image you get an idea of what I am attempting. The glass and back material would be full circle pieces but for ease of viewing the images have them quartered. The wood ar
  14. Doing some thinking on this, and then busting out SketchUp, I think I have a clearer idea of how to attack this thing. Attached are three screen captures from SketchUp of what I am attempting. The first image you can see how I want to create two pieces that are a 1/4 of the overall rings. I added dimensions on it to show the sizes I am thinking. My SketchUp skills are still pretty minimal so the two chamfers on the outer ring are supposed to be round-overs, but I couldn't get the round-over to "Follow-Me" correctly, so you'll just have to imagine it. I would also do matching round-overs on
  15. The other day, while talking to a guy about something completely unrelated, we got onto the subject of a project he had been thinking about for some time. However, he admits to having no woodworking skills and asked me how to go about creating a "proof of concept" for his design. After hearing what he had in mind, I wanted check my thinking with some suggestions of those in here far more experienced than I am. The idea is to make a large wooden ring that would go around a clock, like a doughnut with the clock mechanism in the middle. The thing would be about 2" thick as well. But it is not
  16. I was posting a reply to the original poster, I think you should direct your question to him. My location can be seen under my photo along the side of any of my posts. -- Andrew
  17. Thanks for attempting to give me step by step instructions on this, but.... feel bad saying this, but you demonstrated the exact opposite of what I would like to do. Maybe my terminology is wrong? When I say "round-over" I mean that two surfaces that are 90° to each other are joined by an outward curve. You can run your hand along one surface and then curve over onto the other one. When I made a cutting board for my wife (thanks again Marc for that video!) I rounded over the edges using a router, but I did it all the way around all four edges so there were no sharp corners. What I am trying
  18. I know that the "Follow-Me" tool allows you to round over an edge all the way around a surface... like the edge of a table, or around a circular surface. But what I would like to know is how to "round-over" a corner but only part way along that edge? For example, take a 4'x4' that is 2' long. Now, make a mark 6" from either end on one edge, and then imagine taking your Router with a 1/2" round-over bit from one mark to the other. The ends of the 4x4 would still be square, with a rounded edge in the middle. But more so, the round-over smoothly transitions from the square to the round-over th
  19. Once again I have to thank everyone for all the great suggestions and ideas. There are always several different ways to approach these things, and believe me I ran through many of them. But, I wanted to bring you all up to date on what I did and where I am at in this project.... As I mentioned I needed to make a bunch of piece that would come together using Tongue & Groove joinery, but it was the how to make the T&G that had me running into issues due to my particular table saw. Well, if you look at the first two attached photos, you'll see what I came up with. I really couldn't af
  20. Thanks everyone for your feedback on this. I decided to continue with the project on plan that I created in SketchUp. The only difference I made was to not make the 5° cuts on the ends to angle the notched boards. My table saw is not that precise, and I really didn't see any other way I could manage such cuts with the tools I had on hand. So, I just made everything perpendicular. Came out pretty good if I do say so myself. And once it was done, it actually didn't take up that much wall space yet gives me lots of room for clamps. As you can see though, I have some empty slots so I might need
  21. Thanks everyone for the responses and the great ideas on how to proceed. Since posting, my brain has been simmering on the problem and I think I might try a variation on the cross cut sled instead of making a "zero-clearance insert". The insert idea looks like it may be a challenge due to the way the table saw top is designed. Making a 'sled', but that is clamped in place with a fixed fence parallel to the blade may be the simplest, cheapest, and quickest way to get around the problem. I am happy that an idea I arrived at coincides with many of the experts in here... very reassuring! I
  22. Working on a project where I wanted to use Tongue & Groove style joinery for the front framework. Problem I am running into though is how to cut the groove along the thin edge of my 1"x2" due to the gap in the table saw where the blade comes through the surface. If you look at the attached photo, I scored a 'test' piece to show the groove I want to cut. The side that is scored would actually lay down on the table saw surface when cutting, but standing it up shows better what I am attempting to do. But if you notice, the wood is barely larger than the opening for the saw blade, and this
  23. I created a Sketchup drawing of a plan I saw online. I posted about it in another post here (). My question here is that while I was able to get Cutlist installed and working, I was not getting the results from Cutlist that I thought I should. When I highlighted all the objects on my drawing, and ran Cutlist, I got a long list of board cuts. But when you look at it, all the pieces are the same 3/4" thickness, and could all be cut from a single half-sheet (48"x48") of plywood. Why doesn't Cutlist show this? Instead it shows me needing to cut my parts from boards, and then duplicated much o
  24. Marc, is there any schedule to the Live video and Chat? I have popped in there a couple times a day over the past couple weeks and every time I do it always says "Off Air". Or do you have to be a Guild Member to see either? -- Andrew
  25. A couple weeks ago I saw this Woodsmith Tip on Twitter: I really liked it as it doesn't take up much space on the wall yet would allow me to have a fair number of clamps. I don't have many right now, but hey, always room for more. The drawing was nice and I could sort of picture it in my head, but having read some of the posts on here and watched videos on things you can do with Sketchup, I wanted to try and recreate this thing in there so I could get a better idea of what it would actually look like. I have attached my file to the po