applejackson

Members
  • Content Count

    253
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by applejackson

  1. That HAS to be the reason. I've ruled out dang near everything else that I can think of. But, like you, I am very careful when I seat the iron in the jig, and am careful to incrementally tighten both sides, a little at a time. So, I don't know. Maybe this is one that I don't figure out. Drives me nuts not knowing. I'm starting to work on a consistent technique for free hand sharpening without the jig.
  2. condition: like new make / manufacturer: Veritas, Bench Dog 2 very nice handplanes sold together. Lee Valley Veritas #4 smoothing. Comes with two blades, one 25° and one 30° for trickier grain. One is PMV11 steel, and the other is A2. Both blades are razor sharp, backs flattened and mirrored, with a micro bevel and a slight camber. Bench Dog 5-1/2 Jack plane. Original blade, razor sharp, with micro bevel, no camber. Both planes are IMMACULATE with no wear and absolutely no tear. Both are tuned in perfectly and can produce shavings in the 1/1000" range, or thicker of course if you choose. $375 for both.
  3. Yes I am aware of that - I just didn't know what he meant by Eclipse - I hadn't heard that term before. Thanks for your reply.
  4. And also, welcome to the forum!
  5. I don't know if a set of$2500 chisels is the best thing if you're just starting out. I started with a set of 3 Craftsman chisels that served me well but as I learned to sharpen on them and banged the heck out of them getting my feet wet in the craft, well I now use them to open paint cans. If you have the means, they look beautiful but you should get some cheapos to learn on. But that's just my. 02. Good luck! Also, in Advanced Woodworking forum, look for s thread called "dovetail chisels" -it has s lot of good info on high end chisels.
  6. @RichardAi see this question a lot in dust collection forum conversations. I'm not trying to be a wise ass, but isn't the answer always going to be 1? (Obviously not counting the dust collector?) How would someone be using more than one dust producing machine at once? Or is it based on the idea of more than 1 person working in the shop?
  7. Just a suggestion for a stop have solution until you get your DC up and running. If you get the DeWalt DW735, it has a very strong fan to blow the dust and shavings out of the machine. You can run some 4" hose into a garbage can do help control the dust until you're up and running.
  8. @Chet Is your want of a clear bag just so you can see how full it's getting? I use the cloth bag on my dust collectors and use a highly scientific method for determining how full it is - I give it a gentle kick and use the feel to tell how full it is. Hasn't failed me yet. You probably are set on the clear bags and not needing alternate suggestions, but there you go.
  9. Thanks. I've been trying to figure this out for some time now so I'm pretty careful and intentional with finger placement and pressure on the blade. And I do check progress constantly. This might be a mystery that I never solve as I'm starting to venture into freehand sharpening without the jig. I appreciate you taking the time to reply. Take care Doug
  10. You sell it for a price that reflects the many, many hours it took to create, as well as the lifetime of learning and skill building that fueled all of those hours. Then you buy a fancy new toy for your shop! At least, that's what I'd do. Fortunately, I'll never be in the position of building anything even close to that nice.
  11. In my head, carpentry and woodworking are two different skill sets with different challenges. Sure there's overlap but in the house it seems like there's so many things beyond your control that you just have to work around or work in spite of.
  12. @Jason S. Sorry I didn't see your longer reply before I submitted my first reply. Yes you're talking about the regular hooks but I have no idea where they source them. If you were a manager then you probably know more than I do. One note, I don't know if it's the same Randy but I work at the Minnetonka store and Randy S*****s works there also, idk if he ever worked at Burnsville but it wouldn't surprise me as he's been with the company a long time. Very knowledgeable, talented guy.
  13. Yes I do. @Jason S. Are you referring to the hooks that they hang products on? Because those are just the standard retail store hooks I see in every store I walk into - though they would work well for hanging tools on pegboard I suppose. I'm guessing your referring to something else though?
  14. I'm a little late to this party but thought I'd give you my $ 02. I'm a Minnesotan with a detached, unheated garage/shop. And I don't do much ww between January 1 and mid April. When I take my shop down for the winter, here is the routine: First I gather up what I can to store it in the house, in the basement: Handplanes, Tormek, most finishing products etc. Then for my large, freestanding tools with cast iron, I give the tables a thorough cleaning, coating of boeshield and a coat of wax. Then I cover the tables with a "cover" of 1/4" hardboard and a little weight on top. This keeps the condensation out. That's it. My tools survive the winter with minimal cleanup in the spring, though they do get used here and there though the winter.
  15. Modern British dental implement?
  16. Thanks @Ronn W. I've checked all these settings dozens of times. And I'm very careful and deliberate about seating the blade accurately, and squarely, and using consistent and even pressure when tightening the blade into The jig.
  17. that could be, but I've examined them pretty closely and I don't think that that's it. I'm beginning to wonder if it doesn't have something to do with me being right-handed? Mainly because I've ruled out just about every other conceivable cause. And I would expect the opposite to be true, that if one arm was stronger than the other, the opposite side would take longer to sharpen than what I'm seeing. So, I don't know.
  18. Good to know I'm not the only one!
  19. Yes. It is. That's why I tried to make clear that this was just a curiosity and not a huge problem I was trying to solve. And then, oddly enough, after re-establishing the primary bevel on an iron, and having this issue clearly happen right before my eyes, I put the jig on the it's micro bevel setting and for the first time ever, this issue didn't happen. So IDK. Maybe I'm just nuts. But it drives me crazy, because I can't figure it out and it ends up taking a lot longer. But aside from that, your right, it's mostly cosmetic. I use the camber roller on some irons, but not all of them.
  20. That's worth a check. Thanks I'll check it out
  21. So here's something that I can't figure out. I use the veritas mk ii honing jig on my plane irons, and time after time, blade after blade, I don't get an even, consistent contact with the stone. I just brought this to Lee Valley and they're looking into it. Here are some pictures. In this case, I had just re-established the primary bevel on an iron using a 250 grit stone. I moved up to a 1200 grit to illustrate this issue - see in the first picture how the left side isn't making even purchase? Now, I've put some thought into troubleshooting this. Here's a list of things I've ruled out: 1. It's not this iron being out of whack. This happens consistently on all my plane irons. 2. Not the stone. This happens on both water and diamond stones. 3. Not me seating the blade in the jig incorrectly. I use the fence on the registration jig to ensure the iron is perpendicular to the head. I am careful to tighten it consistently and evenly. 4. I am even and deliberate with my finger pressure while sharpening. 5. It has nothing to do with the micro bevel control on this jig. There's nothing physical that I can see in the jig that causes this and to tell the truth, it's an annoyance but I still get great results from this jig. So this post is more to satisfy my curiosity than to solve the issue. But I wouldn't mind solving it. Thanks all. I know if there's anyone who can figure this out it's the people in this forum. I greatly appreciate the advice and guidance in here. The second pic is the bevel before I started on the next stone. It's even and consistent and the third pic shows the bevel is an even 25°
  22. Where to begin describing this remarkable stone? I'm a competent sharpener, using a variety of methods. More and more, I use a Tormek for sharpening, but when it comes to my plane irons, I'm very, very particular and do those by hand. Until this point I had a 1,000 grit, a 4,000 and an 8,000 grit stone. And with these I get excellent results. My litmus test for sharpness is once I can easily shaves the hair off my forearm, it's good to go. So fast forward to the Shapton purchase. I was really hesitant to spend a lot of money on a stone that I wasnt sure would provide results that were THAT much better than what my current stones were Giving me. But I bit the bullet and went for it on Amazon, $140. It arrived in 2 days time and the packaging was really cool and nice. (it's a Japanese company) It's a Waterstone that's mounted on a bed of glass. The first thing I noticed while using it is how nice and large the surface area is. It's 8-1/4" x 2-3/4". So it's wider than my other stones and that size feels almost luxurious to use with my wider blades. The next thing is that it cuts so fast I couldn't believe it. It's twice as fine as my finest Stone (8k) but it cuts like a 250. And you only need a few small spritzes of water, no need to soak it before use. So all this info is good and all but the thing that matters the most is... How sharp is the blade after you sharpen on it? And the answer is, it's RIDICULOUSLY SHARP. It's so much sharper than what I was getting off of my 8k stone that I almost don't know how to describe it. It's by far the keenest edge I've ever put on a plane iron, by far. And if course the performance I get out of my planes is off the charts. The last thing to mention is that I also used it as the final Stone to flatten the back of the irons and it leaves a mirror finish. I know that a mirror finish doesn't really impact the sharpness but I liked the way it looks. So in sum this is by far the best stone I've ever used and it's well worth the money in my opinion.
  23. @SawDustB Perhaps I should have said any bright colored species!
  24. By pure accident, I find a way to check your DC for leaks. It's pretty simple. Step one: Cut some Padauk on the table saw. Step two: look for the telltale orange dust.