applejackson

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Everything posted by applejackson

  1. applejackson

    White oak curiosity question

    I have been woodworking for about 15 years and I work part time in a Rockler store. I've got a question that no one has ever been able to answer to my satisfaction, but I'm guessing that the wise members of this forum can answer it. Here goes. I ONLY ever see white oak for sale that's 1/4 sawn. Does anyone know why this might be? I live in Minnesota so there's not exactly a shortage of oak trees in this region. And at work at Rockler, and in the 3-4 local lumber yards I but from, I can't remember seeing plain sawn white oak, even once. It seems to ALWAYS be 1/4 sawn. I guess it could be that it is out there and I just haven't noticed it (it's not like I'm actively trying to source some) but I started recognizing that I was seeing this lack of anything but QS about a year ago and in that time I've kept an eye out for plain sawn and just haven't ever seen it. Does anyone know if there's something to this observation or is it bullspit and I just haven't noticed other cuts? Just curious. Thanks
  2. applejackson

    Large miters

    I'm doing a custom shelf project for a friend. The shelves are 10" wide and are joined with a miter in the corner of the room. (Inside corner) It's actually sets of shelves, one on top of the other. Anyway, I measured the corner of the walls at 89-1/8°. And since I'm not super confident in being able to set a miter saw to precisely 44-9/16°, my plan is to cut one of the 2 mitered shelves here at home. Then bring it to the job site and hold the other, uncut shelf underneath it and Trace the angle from the first, pre-cut board. I feel good about this approach, but thought I would see if anyone has any other ideas? Obviously I need the miter to be air tight. Also, I'm going to use some biscuits in the miter joint. I've never cut a miter that's anywhere near this large, and I feel like a couple biscuits will help with alignment, etc during the installation. If anyone has thoughts or other strategies they'd use in this situation, I'd sure love to hear about them. Thanks
  3. applejackson

    Large miters

    Closing the loop on this thread. Installed today, happy customer. I had the large miter air tight in my shop but as the desk that it's fastened to wasn't a perfect 90, it opened a little bit on one end. Shelves were an extension of the desktop, plus the upper shelves and a little space filling triangle. Nothing to write home about.
  4. No blade guard on your saw? Or were you cutting something where you had to take it off?
  5. applejackson

    Large miters

    @drzaius howdy. So here's where the challenge lies when I tried it on my shelves. I really struggled to get my 24" straight edge clamped effectively. If the bearing is going to ride on the side grain of the straight edge, then the top has to be completely free of clamps or the router will hit them. Then, there is so little margin for error on miters. If it slips a half a degree, your joint will not be tight. I spent several hours on trying this and did not end up with a good joint. Like I said before, maybe guys who do this all the time are better or have different to technique. Also, the fact your clamping that straight edge at a 45° angle limits your clamping options. And of course the work piece had to be elevated. These were nearly 6 feet long. In principle this sounds straight forward and easy but it's not. Or, it wasn't for me anyhow. I do appreciate you and your suggestions and your willingness to assist so please don't take any of this as defensiveness. Your probably 20 times more skilled than I am and maybe for you this is child's play. My experience was different. Once I ripped them into 2 I was able to cut the joint on the table saw with great results. Take care
  6. applejackson

    Large miters

    No difference. They're the same thing. You can get the bearing on top or bottom but as far as I know that's the same thing.
  7. applejackson

    Large miters

    Yep I know how a pattern bit works. It didn't work for me in this setup. Probably user error. Take care.
  8. applejackson

    Large miters

    I had trouble with the setup. Straight edge would move a hair. Correct that. Clamps in the way. Correct that, something else. Correct that, well, you get the picture. But like I said, that's not where I spend a lot of my time, so for some maybe it's really easy. I was stupidly trying to use a pattern bit. Should just used a straight bit with no bearing. Oh well.
  9. applejackson

    Large miters

    Yep. Tried that. Sounds easy but in execution it was anything but. Didn't get a good result. But then, it don't do a lot of hand routing Unless just putting an edge profile or something simple like that. Thanks for the suggestion though. Take care
  10. applejackson

    Large miters

    Howdy all. A quick update. Finally ready to install these this coming weekend. Had a few week's delays and some design changes. I wasn't able to come with a good way to miter a 10" wide work piece on the table saw, and too big for a miter saw. So I went old school and pulled out the skill saw and a speed square. Results weren't acceptable to me. Miter was ok, not great. So I ended up ripping the pieces in half, and using a miter jig on the table saw for the now 5" wide pieces and edge gluing back together. The glue is drying and the joint is perfect. I've hung the brackets already so the install should be pretty straight forward. I'll post pics when it's done. Thanks all
  11. applejackson

    Large miters

    @curlyoaknot sure I follow you on the 1x2? Is it just to give something to set the template-stock onto? I will def be bringing a miter saw and coping saw and a slew of other tools. As to brackets, the client ordered some fairly hefty steel brackets. There are two styles. 1 style is like so: And the others are identical to those, except the part that you fasten to the wall sits underneath the shelf, and not above the shelf like in the picture. He wants the lower shelves to be co-planer with his desktop, so we're going to saw off the part of the bracket that comes up on the sidegrain on the front of the shelf.
  12. applejackson

    Cross Cut Sled Fence

    @Daniel Hobbs I'll weigh in here. On my sled, (and on most crosscut sleds) there are two vertical members, perpendicular to the orientation of the sled, that hold the 2 halves of the sled together because the blade on the TS will slice it into 2. There is a natural tendency to want to use the rear cross member as a fence. Don't do that. On mine, those cross members are there ONLY to hold the sled together. I insert a fence right in front of the rear cross member. Then it is east to square it up, using shims and fasteners. Another piece of advise that I stumbled onto is in regards to the runners that ride in the miter slots. The natural instinct for many is to use 2 runners - one for each miter slot on the TS. It can be difficult to get those exactly parallel to each other. To solve for this, I only use 1 runner and it works great. Best of luck.
  13. applejackson

    Large miters

    @curlyoak: Bring template to the shop? Check. Bevel on back edge? Check. Sand and finish in the shop? Check and check. Thank Curlyoak for advice? Check.
  14. applejackson

    Large miters

    Thanks all - for your great suggestions and advice. Here is my revised plan of attack. I am going to cut the miters in my shop - each at 45*. I am probably going to cut them on the table saw, though I may have to clean up with a router and guided flush cutting bit. On the larger of the 2 set of shelves, the shelves are each 70" from the corner of the room. The smaller set are each 38" from the corner of the room. I will transport them, unassembled, to the job site. I'll use 1/8" plywood, and a compass to scribe the walls and make a template. Transfer the template onto the shelves. I'll be bringing a host of tools for the cuts needed to conform to the scribed lines: belt sander, block plane, jig saw, hand saws, chisels, etc. I'll use biscuits to keep the miters aligned. I think that should do it. I will post pics, and (I am hoping) an account of a successful install after I am done. Thanks again, all. The check is in the mail....
  15. applejackson

    Large miters

    Thanks, @drzaius. I am packing a router with a bearing guided flush bit and a straight edge, for sure.
  16. applejackson

    Large miters

    I *think* I am following you there. I was just going to bring a couple long 1x4's to make a template out of, but plywood is probably a better call. why the tin snip?
  17. applejackson

    Large miters

    Will do, sir! I'm hoping to install on Sunday, but not sure if I will have the finishing completed by then or not. These are going to be huge miters, something like 16". Hope it goes well.
  18. applejackson

    Large miters

    Thanks all. It sounds like scribing is the way to go here. @Chet thanks for pointing that out. I would have been sick after putting a fair amount of work into these things, to have a fatal mistake during the install. I am going to test that theory - I am sure you're right but in my mind it seems like it would work. Sometimes I have to see something with my eyes in order for it to really sink in. @Kev thanks - I dont have a track saw so I will have to scribe it. I appreciate the suggestion though. @pkinneb and @drzaius - thanks fellas. I will cut (2) 45's and join them (Still going to use biscuits) and then scribe the long shelves to fit the wall. Very much appreciate everyone taking the time to reply here.
  19. applejackson

    White oak curiosity question

    See? I KNEW I'd get an answer! Thanks @Chestnut. Makes perfect sense. Mystery solved.
  20. applejackson

    Micro bevel on chisels?

    Imo it's all about repeatability. If you can easily recreate your sharpening set up to hit that micro bevel to touch it up, then go for it. I have a micro bevel on my chisels but not on most of my plane irons. Don't know why that is exactly, it just turned out that way.
  21. applejackson

    Okay, what's the next buy?!

    @Cody Bond ArellanollaArellanollaArellanollaArell Sorry about the weird text above. My phone keeps auto inserting it when I try to delete it? Weirdest behavior I've ever seen. Anyway, if you want a suggestion for a great jig saw at a decent price, check out the Triton at Rockler. I don't have experience using it but it's very popular and the design is really ergonomic. https://www.rockler.com/triton-tjs001-65a-orbital-action-jig-saw
  22. applejackson

    Table Saw! Powermatic vs. SawStop vs. your favorite!

    I rarely buy full sheets of anything any more because I don't have a truck. Rockler and most big box stores sell smaller sheets - 1/2, or 1/4 and those are way easier for me to deal with. At Rockler we also sell Baltic Birch in a sheet that's something close to 5'x3' and that's PERFECT. it's large enough to make a larger project out of but small enough to fit in my small SUV.
  23. applejackson

    Looking for my first router need advice

    I believe it first hit the market in 2010 in very limited supply. All I know is what I am told at the store I work at that sells both packages and t hat was is what I was told - that it's the replacement for the 1617 EVSpk.
  24. applejackson

    Looking for my first router need advice

    Both the routers you have listed are excellent choices. Here are a few things to keep in mind: 1. Porter Cable has easily the most aftermarket accessories available. 2. If you go with the Bosch, know that in order to use the PC style rub collars, you will need this: https://www.rockler.com/bosch-ra1129-quick-change-template-guide-adapter-kit - or you can buy that item with a number of Bosch rub collars. 3. The Bosch 1617 EVS kit has been replaced in the Bosch line with the far spendier MRC23EVSK. I have not had any experience using this new one, but I don't see enough changes in it to warrant the uptick in price, but maybe there are features I am not aware of. The power is virtually the same. This also means that you can usually get the 1617 EVS pk for a great price as stores sell off their existing inventory. I have the 1617 EVS pk and I really like it.
  25. applejackson

    Table Saw! Powermatic vs. SawStop vs. your favorite!

    Agreed. I went 36" because it seems to me I'd only ever use the 52" for cutting a full sheet of plywood exactly in half. And that's not something I do very often.