Doug Carlson

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Everything posted by Doug Carlson

  1. Here my. 02 cents. I wouldn't get either of them. I have yet to hear any woodworker say "I'm so glad I bought a jointer/planer combo". I used to work at a ww supply store and we had a Jet combo unit on the floor. I only ever sold that to beginners who couldn't afford to buy the two machines separately from each other. I don't know anything about the models and maybe they'll be fine, but for the price I'd go with two dedicated machines. Planer footprints are usually pretty small so you won't lose a ton of space. Whichever way you go, good luck and report back with the results!
  2. FWIW, Rockler also offers sharpening for blades and saws of all types. It is done by way of a vendor (at least it is at the store I work at- Minnetonka, MN. And I assume it works the same at all other locations) where it takes about a week to get your order back. For handsaws, pricing is based on the length and tooth count of the saw.
  3. I am behind a draconian firewall at work that doesn’t allow for YouTube – or any video for that matter – so I will have to check it out later. One thing I was going to mention though is that - if you WERE to find some reclaimed beams, you probably wouldn’t have to worry about them pretzel’ing up! If they are relatively straight and true, odds are they will stay that way – and a couple passes through a planer and they may look good as new! Not that you haven’t considered this already, but just thought I would mention it. Take care sir.
  4. @Chestnutcan probably speak to this better than me (I believe he's an engineer) but I know that in a lot of modern construction, there has been a move away from using solid beams for structural support, instead using laminations of multiple 2X6's, 2X8's or whatever the appropriate size is for the building/deck/whatever is being built. I would think you can probably find 6x6's readily and easily (As @Minnesota Steve mentioned in his reply) but to go bigger than that, I don't know if there is a lot of demand for beams that size.
  5. If it helps, @Mick S, I feel older than dirt a lot of the time...
  6. 6 of one, half dozen of the other.
  7. Thanks. I don't have any crowns but I follow you. Thanks for explaining!
  8. Howdy @Mick S - can you explain the dentist's trick you are referring to? Thanks!
  9. @Mick S Agree, agree, agree. My shop is a detached garage, probably 30 ft from the house and it's almost reached the point where I have to wait to do any planing until my wife isn't home, because even inside the house, with all windows closed, she still complains about the noise. I can only assume that the rest of the neighborhood loves it just as much as she does. @Chestnut dangit, now you've made me jealous! That is a beautiful machine and a very nice investment, sir. I look fwd to hearing from you about its performance.
  10. One suggestion for aligning the top - and this assumes that you have a flat workbench, or large table to do the glue-up on - but you can use the surface of your bench/assembly table to align the top simply by flipping it upside down. So in the diagram you have provided, if the sidegrain that is showing is meant to ultimately be the top of table, you can flip it upside and then the surface of the bench will act as a registration surface. then if there is any disparity in the width of your work pieces, the uneven plane will be the bottom of the tabletop and the top will be flat. I hope that makes sense. This is hard to explain in writing, but is a fairly simple concept. Please keep us informed as to your progress!
  11. Thanks @bmcminn What you're showing there is a face grain lamination where the side grain is left exposed to make up the table top. Screws are even less necessary here. Which is to say that aren't needed at all, provided your work pieces are clean and tight, and fit together without any gaps. This is how many of us build our work benches. You absolutely don't need screws. I don't think they'd hurt, but they're def not needed imo. thanks for clarifying.
  12. My experience has been when I first started gluing up panels about 12 years or so back, I had it in my head that I needed to wrench on those clamps. And I would see issues with, not complete failure, but sections of the joint not being bonded as securely. Once I started going more moderate, and not squeezing out 80% of the glue, that stopped happening. All I was trying to do was advise him to not wrench on the clamps as tight as he possibly can make them. Which I stand by. That's all.
  13. That's true if there is a mechanical component to the joint like a Dovetail or mortise and tenon, but he's talking about edge gluing a table top. How do you get an edge glued joint tight prior to clamping? Or am I not following you correctly? Not trying to be argumentative.
  14. There is no real rule of thumb that I am aware of, and you will squeeze some glue out when you tighten the clamps - that is inevitable. You just dont have to go Olympic-powerlifter on the clamps. A good, tight clamp without tightening them as tight as you can physically make it. so on a scale of 1 - 10, with 10 being as tight as you can possibly go, I would advise a 6-7. Practicing on a few pieces of scrap of the same material before the big build is always a good idea.
  15. I want to make sure I am tracking correctly here. Are you talking about screwing through the face of each piece on the underside of the table? with the screws at an angle - like a pocket screw without the pocket? Or am I off base there? As to disadvantages of using screws - I dont know. Seasonal movement shouldn't be too much of an issue. I haven't used screws in this capacity outside of pocket screws once or twice - so I will defer to some of the other guys who may have a better answer for you there. If it is just strength you are looking for - I honestly feel like a good glue bond is plenty strong. Again, it is stronger than the wood itself. I don't see the need for screws but it also isn't my table or my kids. At the end of the day, you are the craftsman and you have to go with what you feel is right. I know that's not overly helpful - but that's my .02. I would pass on using screws but that is just me. Good luck!
  16. Hello @bmcminn First off, welcome to the forum!! ok, so to your question. Most modern wood glues (like Titebond) are actually stronger than the wood that they are binding together. So in your case, what you are describing is a common method for making a panel or a tabletop. You are edge gluing the side-grain together to leave the face exposed. If you have good technique with the clamps, and prepare your pieces well - and the areas that are glued are nice and smooth, you shouldn't need screws. If you join two pieces in this manner, and smash the resulting panel on the edge of your table saw, it probably will not be the glue bond that breaks. It will be the wood around it. I have always made panels this way - I dont use screws and haven't had an issue. Just make sure you have good, even and liberal coating of glue over every square millimeter and watch for things like squeezing all the glue out of the joint by over tightening your clamps. That can starve the joint of glue and cause it to fail. Some guys will add biscuits for add'l strength. Most do not use screws. If you do use screws - are you talking about pocket screws?
  17. For sale - Nearly brand new Dovetail Trainer. Will work with any DT saw with a folded spine. Allows you to hit the the perfect angle for sawing tails, and to know that your saw is perfectly flush when cutting pins. Has a nylon set screw and is very lightweight - so not to negatively affect your sawing. This sells on his site for $60, + tax and shipping. My price to you: $40+ apprx $5 for shipping. (It is small and light, and can be shipped anywhere for little cost.)
  18. Nothing falls through. All due respect, but do you really think SS would introduce an outfeed table where work pieces fall through it? I have yet to have any piece of any size fall through it.
  19. Thanks @Mark J! I always enjoy your humor. I'm building the whole thing out of black walnut. So, not exactly basswood in the easy-to-carve sense, but fairly workable. And good suggestions, too. so thanks. I am going to ask my co-worker if he'll do it for me. If he can't or won't for some reason, I will consider pyrography or some of the other suggestions. The brass inset plate idea is an interesting one. I wouldn't have thought of that. As to the wedding delays, I could only be so lucky. I of course MEANT to start this project about a month ago, but pissed the time away so now I am already feeling whistle bit. Fortunately, it's a pretty straightforward build - 8 raised panels all around are the only semi-complicating* element. Other than that it is just a big box. I might try to do one of those Project Journal posts for this. I haven't ever done one of them before. Anyway - take care, sir. -------- *Not that raised panels are exactly complicated.
  20. @Gary Beasley That's an excellent suggestion! One of the guys at the store I work at has a CNC and a laser engraver. I would not have have thought to simply ask him to do it. Problem solved! Thanks
  21. The one issue that I forgot to mention is that the magnets often stick to the miter gauge when I pull it off to use it. Sometime I afix the magnet to the machine with a little polyurethane foaming glue to keep this from happening because it is annoying.