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Everything posted by D W C

  1. If a guy like me can get good results, ANYBODY can!
  2. Thank you @Dave S! You can bet I'll be investigating this solution! Once fixed, were you able to move the locking lever the full amount that it can travel? Or does yours become "locked"when the lever is halfway home?
  3. It was coming from the cup, or more specifically, the pressure inside the cup was forcing material out of the seal where the cup is coupled to the gun. Sounds like another guy has solved that issue, so it looks like user error on my end.
  4. I got very lucky and got the whole thing for $170. Found the power supply, and hose, brand new, in a dumpster behind a certain WW supply store. Inside the store, the spray gun from the display model went missing. So they ordered a new one, kept the gun and chucked the rest. So then I just bought the gun ($200) which was on sale for 15% off, and free shipping. Obviously, I got insanely lucky. But... (Word to the wise: next time you're at your fave WW store, if you can, take a peek inside the dumpster. You'd be AMAZED at what gets thrown away).
  5. Just got this and used it for the first time. I don't have a lot of experience with hvlp systems, but here's my review. COMPONENTS All are very well made. I'm very impressed with the quality of the gun. All steel construction, except for the grip. POWER SOURCE It's a 3 stage (3 turbine) unit. Produces 5.5 CFM. It's about as loud as a medium sized shop vac. Two nice things here are the filters are very easy to access and clean, and there's a hook to dock the sprayer that slides out of the way when you don't need it. HOSE IVE never been this excited over a hose but this thing is really well made. It's 25' long and sturdy enough that you can stand on it (probably best not to though) but still very flexible for maneuvering. The quick release coupling for the gun is well designed and works flawlessly. GUN Very easy to operate and manipulate the spray pattern. The cap can be turned to the fan go vertical or horizontal. There are two knobs. One controls the size of the fan from a dot to a wide fan. The other controls the volume of material being put out. One other cool feature, and maybe this is standard in these style guns, is the straw that goes into the cup is bent. This means you can rotate it to hit the front on the cup if you're angling the gun down, or the back of the cup if you're angling the gun up. The gun is very easy to disassemble for cleaning. IN USE I put a final coat of poly on a bench and the results are very pleasing. Very even and professional looking -at least for me. Two things: I did experience some drops falling off the cup. I don't know if I didn't have it seated perfectly or what. But I did have to pull out a brush to deal with a few drops when spraying from above. The cup locks onto the gun with a cam assembly and this seems like it could be better, as there's a lever to activate the cam action and you can only move the lever about half way until it's locked. It seems like it should lock after moving the lever the entire range of it's path and not halfway through. I think this contributed to the drops I mentioned. Very pleased with this unit, albeit after only one use. There was no orange peel or spitting at all. YMMV.
  6. Yes. I make a brand new sled for every single angle. I store them in a warehouse.
  7. Oh it may very well be. I guess my post came off like they're inferior tools, which really wasn't my intention, I'm just more comfortable with a sled when I need to be really dialed in. If you love your miter gauge and it works for you, ROCK ON!
  8. Thank you! Ha ha I knew it was big box store related but never knew the meaning!
  9. I've seen that before too and always wondered the same!
  10. My issue with it is... It's super fancy and all that, but at the end of the day, it's STILL a miter gauge -never my tool of choice when I need to be super accurate. Looks cool though. All their stuff does.
  11. Just the spray gun, not the power unit, came in the mail today. I'm pretty inexperienced when it comes to spraying finish having only used a conversion gun and air compressor in the past which- so so results, with a HUGE mess and huge waste of finishing product. So I'm excited to try this out. I brushed in two coats of poly onto a recent project and am going to spray the final coat.
  12. Gee Dub , thank you so much! This is great info and exactly what I was looking for. Sorry for the delay responding, the notifications been doing to my spam folder. Thanks!
  13. Howdy Does anyone have experience or advice on prepping and finishing leopardwood? I have a small piece that I'm planning to use as the floating panel in the lid of a small keepsake box. When I took a smoothing plane to it... The little spots don't exactly plane well as they're harder than the wood that surrounds them. For boxes like this I typically use an oil finish (I really like Gen Finishes Wood Bowl oil, so that's probably what I would like to use) with some wax on top of that. Anyway, I don't have much to experiment with, so I'm hoping for some guidance. Thanks in advance!
  14. I recently ordered and installed a Shelix for my jointer. Holy mackerel, believe the hype! My jointer is about 20 years old and I was going to replace it, only I couldn't afford a new one with a helical head and I didn't want straight blades again, so I compromised. This thing has transformed my jointer. That's the simplest way I can put it. Every I put through it comes back glass smooth and dead flat. Simple as that. Install was pretty straightforward. I had to use a gear puller to separate the old cutterhead from the to mounts that afixes the cutterhead to the machine. Aside from that, I just fumbled my way through it and it took about an hour. After a quick adjustment of the outfeed table, I was in business and that machine is now a joy to use. There is no downside that I've come across, except maybe cost. I elected to have them include bearings and I think it wasA little over $400 delivered. If you're on the fence, I can't recommend strongly enough. I'm already saving up to do my planer.
  15. I might be a little late to this party, but I ordered a Shelix for my 6" delta jointer a few weeks ago, waiting on delivery currently. Anyway, they give the option of including bearings for an upcharge, I believe it was like $30. After researching, I went for the bearings along with the cutterhead. I'll let ya all know how it goes after I get it and attempt the install.
  16. Finally got around to installing new rollers in my DW735 DeWalt Planer. I was really pleased with how simple it was. I should've taken pictures, but honestly, you don't even need them, really. Tools you will need: 1. Snap ring pliers for external snap rings 2. Stubby Phillips, or better yet, an offset ratcheting screwdriver 3. The hex tool that comes with your planer, or equivalent sized Allen wrenches That's about it. Here's the steps for anyone considering doing this: 1. Raise planer all the way up. 2. Remove right and left side panel/covers. 3. *left side* remove 2 snap rings from front and rear roller. When both are removed, slide off both sprockets and the chain, all at once. 4. * right side* remove hex screws that fasten front and rear rollers. When both are off, remove both sprockets and chain, all at once. 5. Remove right and left vertical black guards with the orange Warning stickers. . These need to come off to get at the retainer clips. (you'll need the stubby or offset screwdriver here) Now, do one roller at a time, though the steps are the same: For rear roller, remove the right and left retainer clips. These are under tension from the springs. Once off, the rollers will drop out easily. 6. Remove the square bushings and felt rings from the roller and install them on the new roller. 7. Reinstall each roller using the reverse of the above. It took me about an hour and that was with figuring out how it all comes apart. I got the new rollers from eReplacementParts for about $190 delivered and now my 15 year old machine runs like new again. I'm hoping to get another 4-5 years out of it, but we'll see. I also should've replaced the drive belt while I was in there but I didn't think of it when ordering the rollers. That's a job for another day. Good luck. DC
  17. Very true, my friend. Very true. And, I am viewing this quarantine thing as an almost dream situation. 2-3 weeks alone in my shop? Count me in! Anyways, take care bud.
  18. Thanks guys @RichardA I do believe your right. It just struck me as odd.
  19. The picture is a mortise I'm cutting in Walnut. Towards the left, there's a bit of creamy, white wood. Definitely a head scratcher. At first I thought I somehow put a maple shim in and forgot about it or something, but no... This is solid Walnut. Has anyone seen this before? I have not. Thanks for looking!
  20. @Martin-IT thanks, good idea
  21. Thanks all. Was really just wondering yea or nay using a sealer before an oil. Looks like it will not do any favors. I'll skip it Take care.
  22. Howdy I have a question about using a sanding sealer (dewaxed shellac). I'm working on a bench made of Walnut right now. I'm planning to use oil as the primary finish. I would also like to fill the pores prior to finishing. My understanding is the primary benefit of dewaxed shellac is allowing finishes to adhere to it. But is it also good for oils that need to penetrate, or would it get in the way of that happening?
  23. Odie's oil, wood butter and wax all claim to be great for oily woods.
  24. Here my. 02 cents. I wouldn't get either of them. I have yet to hear any woodworker say "I'm so glad I bought a jointer/planer combo". I used to work at a ww supply store and we had a Jet combo unit on the floor. I only ever sold that to beginners who couldn't afford to buy the two machines separately from each other. I don't know anything about the models and maybe they'll be fine, but for the price I'd go with two dedicated machines. Planer footprints are usually pretty small so you won't lose a ton of space. Whichever way you go, good luck and report back with the results!