Doug Carlson

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About Doug Carlson

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 10/09/1974

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St Paul, MN
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture building, cabinetmaking, turning.

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  1. @joe mendel Hi Joe, thank you for sharing this spectacular work. I do have one question for you sir, You mention using about 15 coats of shellac. How did you arrive at that number? Was there a characteristic you were looking for and it took that many coats to get there? Thanks
  2. That's because of the extra mass of the larger #7. It has more weight behind it, so it cuts a little easier. Just my .02. Take care
  3. Cast-iron tenoning jig in perfect condition. I have it up on Craigslist for $60. I will sell it to anyone on here for $50. Direct message me if interested. Doug
  4. @Chestnut thx for lending your opinion. Good stuff as usual. The last few m&t projects I've used a bullnose rabbet plane to fit the tenons. I'll look fwd to using this for that purpose the next time I cut that joint. I'll respectfully disagree with you on suitability for cutting rabbets. That's the primary purpose that drove by decision to buy this plane and so far at least, the fence makes it ideally suited for the task. Without it, I'd have clamp a straight edge across the work piece -a process I try to avoid if at possible because of slippage and general putsiness. Granted the rabbets I've been cutting have been in the 3/8-1/2" range, so they're not exactly tiny. Just my opinion though. For sharpening, I picked up the veritas skew registration jig for the mkii. Good points about the ultimate visibility. The rabbets I've been cutting have been in the 1/32" range so I want to keep this sharp as can be. I've started dabbling in free hand sharpening, but Im not comfortable enough to have to rely on it yet. Take care, sir DC
  5. I ordered this plane to help as I am currently trying to learn to cut dovetails by hand. here are my initial thoughts on this plane specifically, and a few comparative thoughts on how it compares to the regular LN low Angle Black Plane. The fit and finish, and overall quality, are in line with what I have come to expect from Lie Nielsen. Flawless. The blade is delivered sharp. And it’s a beautiful tool to look at. Features: The plane has an adjustable and removable fence for consistency when used for rabbeting. It contains a removable side piece so it can function as a shoulder plane – where the blade comes all the way to the edge of the plane. You can order this plane with the removable side plate on the right, or left side of the plane. It also contains a nicker. This round cutter has a flat portion, which allows you to choose whether or not you want to use it. I really like this feature. It makes a scoring cut ahead of the blade, giving you a crisp shoulder on a rabbet. Here are some differences between this and the regular LN low Angle Black Plane: SIZE The Skew plane is larger at 6-7/8” x 1-7/8”, 2.15lbs The regular LN low Angle Black Plane is 6-1/4” x 1-3/4”, 1.5 lbs MATERIAL The sole of the skew plane is manganese bronze – making it heavier than the LABP - 2.15lbs vs 1.5 lbs, respectively. It also will not rust. The front nob on the skew is made of cherry. It is brass on the LABP. FUNCTION There is no adjustable mouth on the skew plane. The size of the mouth opening can only be controlled/manipulated by advance or retracting the blade. FEATURES The Skew plane comes with an adjustable, removable fence and a removable side plate. The Low Angle plane does not have either of these. The adjustable fence can be used as-is, or you can add a wooden jaw to it to increase it's length and effectiveness - much like the miter gauge on your table saw. Performance: So far the performance has been superb. I am able to cut nice, consistent rabbets with very little effort. As mentioned, the nicker scores ahead of the blade, which results in a nice, crisp shoulder on the rabbet. On a shoulder plane, I will set the plane on its side, and release the tension. Gravity will bring it down to the benchtop, where I can re-tension, and the result is the side of the blade is perfectly aligned with the side of the plane. With the skew plane, this method is a little bit fussier, as you have to keep the blade parallel to the mouth opening. So setting the blade requires a little more attention than it does on a shoulder plane. Sharpening: I need to hone the blade. I haven't done this yet, and will attempt to do so in the next few days. Because of the 12* skew, I cannot simply load it into a sharpening jig as I do with traditional plane irons. I haven’t put a lot of thought into sharpening this yet. I may end up doing it on the Tormek, as that has a jig for skew chisels. Aside from that I will either have to freehand it, or buy or create a jig if I want to sharpen by hand. Choose wisely: Unless you can afford to order both the Right and Left versions of this plane right off the bat, you will have to make a decision on which way you’re going to go - RIGHT or LEFT. I am right-handed, so I ordered the LEFT version. This means that the side plate is removable on the left side of the plane (or the ‘thumb’ side as it sits in your hand and you are looking down at it). I would suggest that you make a list of things you plan on doing with this plane, and go through each item on that list and ask yourself “If I am using it in this way, which side of the pane do I need to be able to remove the side plate from?” Another thing that might help you make the right decision here is when you use this plane – will your workpiece be laying horizontal on your bench, or vertical in a vise? And given that initial orientation, is the workpiece parallel to the bench top, or perpendicular? Again, if you go through and simulate the ways you will use this plane and count how many situations call for the right side vs the left side being removable, you should be able to arrive at the correct option to order pretty easily. Overall I absolutely recommend this plane to anyone who is considering it. Lie Nielsen has a solid reputation for delivering quality, and this plane is no exception.
  6. maybe I spoke too soon as I no longer see LN products on his webpage. Doesn't really matter. Like I said, I only bought the LN plane because he advocates for using one in his dovetail technique, and LN is my favorite manufacturer of planes. I am kind of surprised the there doesn't seem to be any connection between Rob Cosman and Lee Valley.
  7. Hi drew Not really. I dont work in the store any more. I do handplane and sharpening demos on occasion, but that is about it.
  8. @John G. - his instruction book just shows one step using a skewed block plane. So I ordered a LN. But if you look on his site, he also appears to have partnered with Lie Nielsen as their products are in some of the kits he sells. I am guessing that he acts as some sort of Canadian Distribution resource for both woodcraft and Lie Nielsen, as he is not allowed to fulfill orders for either company from customers in the US. If you live in the US and attempt to order any Woodriver/Woodcraft or Lie Nielsen items from his website, you can't do it and there is a note instructing you to purchase them directly from the company. If you live in Canada (or presumably other international locations) then you can use his website to order either company's products. I don't know if there is any advantage for a non-US customer to order these things from RC instead of simply ordering from the company directly. My best guess is that he (RC) keeps an inventory on hand and is able to ship them directly, thereby avoiding customs and the shipping delays that always seem to accompany customs.
  9. In his instructions, RC days to use a skewed block plane, or a shoulder plane, to cut a slight rabbet in the tail board. Though this is a small detail and not essential to the joint, I of course took it to mean that I better order a nice Lie Nielsen skewed block posthaste. It's really nice. It's all brass, unlike their regular block plane. Very nice little plane and a pleasure to use. Anyway, thank you for the encouragement. I'm really motivated to cut about 1000 more of these now. All the best DC
  10. Thank you @Rjweb for the kind words. I. definitely motivated to try the next one!
  11. Here is an update. Today I finished my first through dovetail joint by hand. And it's pretty ugly. But their l prior to this I couldn't even come close to cutting this joint. So I decided to invest in premium tools and instruction from Rob Cosman. And I cannot overstate how worthwhile that investment is proving to be. As mentioned, his Dovetail saw is phenomenal. It cuts like nothing I've ever used before. But the real gem in an those products pictured is the instruction book. I have learned so much in just a few days. There's tons to great little tips in there that really pay off. Liked cutting a shallow rabbet in the tail board to help secure the two pieces together when it's time to transcribe the tails onto the pinboard. I was completely hopeless with this joint up until getting this book. I would just try to "see it/ cut it" and not once did that very scientific method yield an even poor quality joint. Everytime I would just get frustrated and throw it in the scrap barrel. So yeah I consider everything pictured to be well worth the money. The only thing I wouldn't get again is the Dovetail Trainer. But both saws are excellent as is the Marking Knife.
  12. Thank you @Chestnut- informative and entertaining as always, sir! Yes, you are right about end grain cutting boards being a good uses for cut offs. Take care, amigo. Doug PS Re: shim stock, I knew that I was either: A. Hyper organized, or B. Clinically insane when I took an hour and went through and sorted and arranged my shim stock by size and species. At any given time, I probably have between 50-100 pieces of shim stock, varying size and species, all organized and at the ready. And it gets used, a LOT.
  13. @JohnG - I like the way you think!!!