L2090301

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About L2090301

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  • Location
    : South Florida
  • Woodworking Interests
    DIY, getting started, learning basics, tools & tips...
    Specific projects of interest: Privacy fence, deck, koi pond bridge, wood flooring & staircase, cabinets & furniture.

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  1. Thanks! No bandsaw, but I do have handsaw, circular saw and chopsaw. I actually have several wedges like you speak of that have fallen off larger pieces, which I use as door jambs.
  2. Thanks, that’s very helpful! Yeah, now that I think about it, the 1x4s may not be wide enough, as I box in the post. How would you go about tapering the 4” spacer blocks?
  3. Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to explain in more detail...I think I understand. As for boxing in the post, I have some 1x4s...How about using those Instead of fencing boards? By different size spacer blocks, I take it you mean different thicknesses depending on what it takes to get to plumb...That said, how large would you make them?
  4. Thanks! Yes, those horizonatal 2x4's are going to be cut for the gate opening. I can’t really picture what you mean by using the top layer board to form one side of a corner, and another one that intersects with it to form a plumb corner. But, I get what you’re saying about spacer blocks cut to give good support under the hinges.
  5. Thanks! I hear ya’. I may have enough surface area on the post to make the hinge pins plumb in 2 planes, if I follow the plumb line of last board...We shall see. That said, it doesn’t look like I need another board there. FWIW, here are clearer pics...
  6. Thanks! The gate hinge post is out of plumb. SOB twisted on me because I took too long to put rails up to help hold it in place. I guess the good news is it’s leaning the opposite of what it would be for a sagging gate. The boards are plumb, but with where that last board is in relation to the out of plumb hinge gate post, what would you do there?
  7. Well, not sure this is working they way I had hoped. Forgot to mention I’m on a bit of a slope. I started at the corner and worked my way towards gate hinge post, which is where I stopped. I’m hesitant to begin adding the 2nd row of boards to fill in the gaps until I got some feedback. That said, here’s how far last board, so far, is from covering gate hinge post... 1-10/16” at top 2-14/16” at bottom I’d appreciate your guidance!
  8. Thanks, that’s very helpful!
  9. Thanks! What is the proper way to do the math?
  10. Thanks! Not much of a difference, indeed, if I’m doing this correctly. I divided 224.75” (length of run) by 65 (one more whole board), which gives me 3.45” as new spacer width, instead of 3.5”. When I convert 3.45 to a fraction, I get 3-9/20, but how do I translate that to my measuring tape, which is broken down by 1/16’s?
  11. Thanks! When you say ”Tighten them up a hair, and add one more board...”, do you mean going with a little more of overlap like you did, so I can fit 65 boards?
  12. Hello all, Preparing to attach 5-1/2” W pickets for a board on board fence. Planning to using 3-1/2” W spacer (basically a 2x4) with 1” overlap on each side. First run is 224-3/4”... -House to cover gate latch post 44-1/4” -Gate 46” -Covered gate hinge post to cover 1st corner 134-1/4” FWIW: Doing the math, if I divide 224-3/4” (first run) by 3-1/2” (board width minus overlap) it gives me 64.21 as rough number of boards. That said, I’ve seen some videos recommending to attach 1st pickets to cover corner posts and gate posts, so they have full pickets; working from gate posts towards 1st corner on one side and house on other side, ripping last picket, at house and corners, if too big. Then continuing from 1st corner along remaining run, again ripping last picket, at remaining corners and end of fence, if too big. How does that sound...Make sense? I appreciate your feedback!
  13. L2090301

    Attaching fence post to house

    Thanks! With 43” oc, from last post to house, 1/3 cantilevered, would put a post at approximately 14 1/3”, from house, as opposed to leaving 1/2 cantilevered, and putting a post at 21 1/2” Hmm? That would put post much closer to cast iron piping. But, I agree about wind load, not being a joke, especially in HVHZ. That’s why I was surprised by inspector’s reply.
  14. L2090301

    Attaching fence post to house

    Thanks! Took a while to hear back from inspector, go figure... Yesterday, I was surprised by his reply, when I told him, 43" oc from last post (gate latch post) to house and asked him if I could split the distance and place a post, at 21 1/2", in concrete to code, then cantilever i.e. leave unsupported 21 1/2", towards house... Inspector said, with 43" oc from last post, I didn't even have to add another post, which code calls for every 48" and he would allow all 43" to be cantilevered. Hmm? Didn't see THAT coming...But, sounds good...No digging & no concrete to mix. That said, to me, 43" seems too far, to cantilever, in a HIgH VelocIty HurrIcane Zone aka HVHZ. Thoughts?
  15. L2090301

    Attaching fence post to house

    Great, thanks! By George, I think I've got it! Aesthetically, not a big deal, to me, since it's on my side and not in neighbor's view but at this point there's no changing my post spacing to make this more regular in the overall scheme....48" is code AND close enough. ;o OK, so with 43" oc, from house to gate latch post, splitting the difference would put post at 21 1/2 inches, of unsupported cantilever; approx. 11 1/2 inches from cast iron pipe. That said, with this type of fence, what length is typically considered too long and pushing the limits?