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About Slacker

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    Apprentice Poster

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    Wisconsin, USA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Everything, even sharpening.

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  1. Nice door! Love that Sapele. For the garden bench I won’t be applying a film finish at all, just an easily renewable oil finish. Weird how you had so much trouble with the spar varnish.
  2. Yes they definitely have their limitations. Normally I never use those for clamping glue ups but when I was researching using epoxy as an adhesive, I came across a number of sources that warned against too much clamp pressure/glue starvation so I wanted to be careful. I had a lot of squeeze out using these clamps for the first 2 sets of glue ups so I thought maybe I was squeezing it all out. It was just the 3rd one where I let off the pressure a bit that wasn’t adequate. The first two are very tight, gap free, & solid. Thanks for the feedback, now I have a better reference for what I’m working with.
  3. I would say dado. It’s not overkill, just simple & effective for this application.
  4. They are about 6’ long. I used my quick grip clamps because they kind of have their own limitations in terms of clamping pressure capacity. The first two glue ups I snugged them right tight but the last one (the gappy one) I let off the pressure a bit. I’ll go back to the original amount of clamping pressure and all should be good. Thanks again!
  5. Chestnut, thank you. This is what I was hoping for. Good to know that I can increase the clamping pressure without having to worry too much. I’ve just read that it’s easy to starve an epoxy joint so I was a little gun-shy when applying the clamps. I’m going to rip cut that gappy one and redo it. Cheers!
  6. I’m making a garden bench (Russell Jensen’s Japanese garden bench from Fine Woodworking). Wood: quartersawn white oak. Glue: West Systems Epoxy My question is in regards to gluing up 6/4 boards to make the 2 1/2” thick components. The clamping pressure requirements for epoxy are a little vague. Too much pressure and you squeeze it all out. Too little and there are gaps. So far 2 glue ups have gone well, but the 3rd is a bit “gappy”. I usually use titebond 3 for this sort of thing and haven’t had any issues in the past, but the author calls for epoxy to be used (partly due to him using teak on the original & partly because of epoxy’s superior waterproof qualities) So I’m looking for educated opinions on whether I should stick with epoxy and just figure out what the sweet spot is for clamping...OR switch back to titebond 3 (which I’m more confident with). In Wisconsin we have massive swings in seasonal temperatures (130 degree range) & lots of rain & humidity in the summer. Is TB3 equally as good as epoxy in this situation? Thanks for any insights you may share.
  7. I’ve never used the old (red handled) 750s but I’m not impressed with these re-issue 750s. The edge retention is about the same as my Irwin/Marples.
  8. So I contacted Stanley and they replaced the chisels but the replacement set was just as bad. Looks like they aren’t grinding the edges like they were originally anymore. When they first came out about 8 years ago, they had small thin edges. (Not like a Lie-Nielsen chisel, but closer) Apparently they don’t care anymore... As far as the handles are concerned, yes mine fell out but a good whack upside down on my bench seated them nicely and they don’t fall out anymore. But this is normal for socket chisels. If yours keep falling out of the socket, just spray a little hairspray on the ends before reattaching.
  9. Ok thanks guys, I’ll contact Stanley and see what they say.
  10. I wondered about that myself, but I got them from Zoro Tools. They seem pretty legitimate.
  11. So I bought a set of Stanley’s Sweetheart chisels when they first came out about 7 years ago and really liked them for the price. One of the things I appreciated about them was that they ground the sides very small so that they can get into corners without bruising the wood, much like (although not as good as) Lie Nielsen’s bench chisels. For various reasons I was forced to sell the set I had and figured I’d get another set down the road. Well I finally did get a new set and to my surprise they are not equal to the originals. There are a couple differences: 1. The sides are now very large. 2. They front edge is not ground 90 to the sides. There is a slight skew on a few of them. 3. They moved the SW logo on the leather tool roll to the opposite corner so that it’s not visible when they are rolled up. (Granted this is a very minor complaint, however I just can’t understand why the change would be made) I can fix the skew on my slow grinder so it’s not a huge issue, but it’s disheartening to see such poor manufacturing. The sides being as large as they are is such a huge disappointment. This was one of the key features that Stanley boasted about when they were first released. Now 7ish years later, they just don’t care anymore. Makes me wonder if they switched to an inferior steel as well. Here’s a pic of what they look like now: