Quijote

That is a shame. I really enjoy the show. I only found it a few months ago and have been listening to them from the beginning. Gentlemen, good luck on all of your future endeavors.

If you are wanting it to stand at that angle without the brace in back, I would probably look at some sort of mortise and tenon joinery. Since you don't speak wood, that is basically cutting a hole in the base at that angle and having a portion of the angled piece fit tightly into the hole.

I don't have any area for a shop. Small house with no garage. All bedrooms are taken up by kids. What I have been doing is covering the top of the table in cardboard and move it into the corner of the room. I then plane/cut towards the wall. I use an old board clamped to the table top for a planning stop. The table fits tight enough into the corner that it doesn't move.

Hello from Friendsville, TN. When I was growing up, my dad had a 30x20 shop in which we did everything to woodworking, to metal fabrication, to mechanic work. Looking back on it though, the woodworking was all butt joints and nails or screws. I am looking to relearn how to do all of this. I don't have the space for the big power tools I grew up with. I will be limited to hand tools and coming up with innovative clamping solutions as I will be doing most of my work at the dining room table.

Welcome. I am basically just over the dragon from you. Outside of Maryville here. I took the kids to the Polar Express railway in your town a couple of years ago.

I did. Upon closer inspection, it looks like someone had bought it before me. They tried to install the iron bevel up, and use it before properly tuning it. The rounded end of the iron has a couple marks like they really hammered it in there. I tried the other 2 methods mentioned above and no luck. I am considering just returning it and maybe get a different one at a later time. I will make sure to let them know about the problem though to so no one else has the same problem as me.

I am relatively new at hand tool woodworking and I am trying different styles of hand planes to see what I like to see which direction I want to go. Well, this weekend I picked up a 50mm Japanese plane at Woodcraft. I went to take it apart to tune it and the chip breaker came out, but the wood around the iron must have dried enough that I am unable to move it. I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I thought about introducing it into a moist environment for a few days to make the wood swell, but I was worried about the iron rusting. I also considered trying to lightly tap it with something soft or using pliers to grab the end of the blade and pull it out, but I quickly dismissed those because I was worried about damaging the blade. Any help you can give me will be appreciated. Oh, and I forgot to say, it is white oak.