G Ragatz

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About G Ragatz

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry

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  1. I think epoxy is considered "food safe," so even if there are some tiny fragments from chopping/slicing on the board, I don't think it would be a health/safety problem.
  2. @Kes121 Question about your photos - is the epoxy fill as wide as it appears to be in your photos, or has the epoxy flowed onto the surface of the slab on either side of the crack, and you'll sand/scrape/plane that overflow away? If the fill is really as wide as it appears, then I agree with @RichardA - the bowties will look odd, floating in the epoxy. But if there's just a narrow crack that will show epoxy after you've surfaced the top, then the bowties will be both functional and attractive.
  3. These guys seem to have the entire adjustment assembly available, but I couldn't find just the screw. The assembly seems a little pricey, but I don't know your budget vs. time spent on alternate solutions. https://www.mmtoolparts.com/store/jet-100016acp
  4. Seems like a look at the edges where the leaf meets the main part of the table might help with determining whether it's veneer or solid.
  5. Jesse, I think what you'll find there is a bunch of junk and/or plans copied from other sources, probably in violation of copyright laws. As others have suggested, it kind of depends on what type of projects you're interested in, but here are some sources I have found useful for free or low-cost woodworking plans: Wood Magazine: https://www.woodmagazine.com/project-plans/free?page=1 Jim Barry's Woodworker's Shop: http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/resources/index.php?cat=102 Rockler: https://www.rockler.com/project-ideas Taunton Press: https://www.tauntonstore.com/project-plans.html These cost a few bucks, but are quite detailed. Gary
  6. G Ragatz

    Squeaking table

    Dad always used paraffin, so that's what I've always used, but I was watching an episode of Ask This Old House just last night, and Rich Trethewy was recommending soap for lubricating wooden drawer runners. Everybody has a bar of soap in the house, so maybe it's just a convenience thing?
  7. If what you're wanting to do is sand down rough end grain on the blocks, here is what I would do: Get a couple of pieces of hardwood 3/4" thick x 2" wide x say, 18" long. Glue a piece of the rubber you use for your stamps to one of the 3/4" faces of each piece of hardwood. Line up a bunch of same-dimensional wood blocks, on end, on a flat surface. Place one piece of hardwood, rubber side in, on either side of the blocks. Use a couple of c-clamps to squeeze the blocks between the hardwood pieces. Sand with a random orbit sander. Flip over and repeat on the other side. You can rest the blocks on a piece of lumber that will support the blocks, but leave clearance for the clamps when you flip. You'd have to experiment to see just how many blocks you could hold securely at one time. If you want to get fancy, you could put a slight arc on the rubber side of the hardwood pieces to create cauls, which might let you process more blocks at one time. It probably would not be too hard to make a dedicated clamping jig that would cut down on the fiddling around with the cauls.
  8. I think radius sections of bar rail are pretty readily available. Here's one example: https://www.hardwoodsincorporated.com/product-category/hardwoods-bar-rail/
  9. I’m late to the party here, but thought I’d offer a few comments and a couple of questions. I think it’s a neat design. It seems like the desk could be used comfortably either standing or sitting in a draftsman’s chair. The open sides look is cool. I like the idea of continuing the drawer runners across the drawer faces, but I wonder how that will look on the top drawer, where the runner seems to be closer to the top of the drawer than it is on the others. While I like the idea of the exposed sides, I’m wondering about that top drawer. As drawn, there’s a significant gap between the bottom of the top drawer and the top of the next drawer (vs. the pic that Mick posted, where spaces between drawers are all the same, and pretty small). Is it possible to make the top drawer deeper and align the rail at the bottom of the kneehole with the runners for the second drawer? It looks like you’re not putting a drawer in the center. Since it sounds like you’re using a desktop computer, is there a way to configure that space for keyboard storage so that if you’re not using the computer, you can get the keyboard out of the way? It looks like the runner for the bottom drawer is at the bottom of the drawer. If you’re going to continue the runners across the drawer faces and use them as drawer pulls, I’d move the runner up closer to the top of the drawer, like the others, even if it means sacrificing the taller shelf behind the bottom two drawers.
  10. Seems like you'd want to cut them at 90* so the ends would look like end grain at twice the thickness, no?
  11. Admitted "wedding cynic" here - nothing against people getting married (I've done it myself, with good results) - just some of the things they do to celebrate the event. What's going to happen to these 24 tables after the wedding?
  12. I have a buddy who has a sauna - he says it's cedar - and he uses this product: https://www.amazon.com/Northern-Lights-Group-SEALANT-interior/dp/B00AWHHXOW Says the outfit that installed the sauna used it, and recommended that he re-seal at least the benches and ceiling every two or three years. He's been using it on the floor also, and has done the walls once. He's had the sauna about ten years, and says he's happy with the result.
  13. I would think that corner brackets would help. You can buy metal ones or make your own from some of your leftover wood stock. https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Mount-Corner-Brackets-Aprons/dp/B002L6K5G0/ref=asc_df_B002L6K5G0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241947538459&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2188752478819816816&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011951&hvtargid=pla-473221180487&psc=1
  14. I'm not familiar with Marc's jewelry box, so I don't know exactly what size(s) you might be looking for. Home Depot carries a number of "Mr Beam" battery operated, motion activated LEDs: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Mr-Beams-Mini-Stick-Anywhere-Motion-Activated-LED-Night-Light-6-Pack-MB706-WHT-06/300852243
  15. G Ragatz

    New Table Saw

    Sorry - PM2000B is what I searched for. A little disconnect between brain and typing fingers.