G Ragatz

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About G Ragatz

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry

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  1. Is that the show with Tom McLaughlin? He has a small green bandsaw that feeds the opposite of any other bandsaw I've seen. Not sure what the brand is. He has a larger saw that he uses for resawing that feeds the "normal" way.
  2. I don't think so - he recognizes that the purpose of a split jamb is to accommodate walls of different thickness, but that's not the OP's issue. The OP is changing the thickness of his doors, not his walls. The jambs are fine as-is, but the stop either needs to be narrowed or moved back to allow a proper fit for the new doors.
  3. I've seen rabbeted jambs on exterior doors before. Always assumed it was just to add strength. But on the ones I've seen, the "stop" runs all the way to the far edge of the jamb (away from the door) rather than the narrower 1-3/8" or so shown in the OP's picture. I wonder if something like this might work (there would still be some clean-up with hand tools): Dremel flush-cut
  4. If it's the mortise in the door you're concerned with, then I like Chestnut's idea. If it's the mortise in the jamb, you're probably going to have to fabricate your own filler blank. All the commercial ones I've seen are intended to be painted. If the old door is being discarded, you might be able to cut filler blanks from the surface of the door. Otherwise, I'd look for some 1/8" veneer in a species similar to your jambs.
  5. Maybe just strips of blue tape every couple of inches to hold the veneer to the substrate? A few pin nails?
  6. Check the link in the second paragraph of the original post - seems to still work.
  7. I did something like this a few years ago, and I found an adhesive that was specifically for foamboard - I think it was a Loctite product. Got it at either HD or Ace Hardware. Applied like construction adhesive, with a caulking gun. Not terribly expensive, as I recall. Worked fine. I believe some adhesives will dissolve foamboard.
  8. We have wire shelving in a couple of linen closets in our home. I like the airflow the wire allows - we don't have to worry if some towels or bed linens go onto the shelf with some residual moisture from the laundry. But as you note, storing small items on these shelves was a pain. My solution was to cut some Masonite pegboard to fit and put that on top of the wire shelves, slick side up (shelves where we store only towels or bed linens were left as-is). Small items can stand up on it, and won't slip through the shelf like they did with wire-only. Not entirely elegant, but it works pretty
  9. We built a new home about 5 years ago, and the sort of wire organizers you have were our builder's "standard" closet organizer. We looked at a couple of homes that had their "upgraded" organizers, and were not impressed. We ended up buying customized organizers through Home Depot, from an outfit called SimplyNeu . They have an on-line design tool that allows you to input the dimensions of your closet and then design the mixture of shelves, drawers, full- and half-height hanging space, etc. that meets your needs. They send you a kit with everything pre-cut and a set of assembly instru
  10. I have a job-site saw that has a fence attachment that looks similar. It has two uses. In one position, the top surface of the attachment is flush with the top of the table - when the fence is positioned beyond the right edge of the table, the attachment provides support for the workpiece (sort of a narrow table attached to the fence). In a second position, the attachment rests flat on the saw table - it's used like an auxiliary fence for narrow rip cuts where the regular fence would interfere with the blade guard.
  11. That's very strange. We order from Chewy regularly, and the shipments we received are always packed very efficiently. I wonder if these were packed by a third party - maybe the manufacturer (still no excuse). Everything we receive from Chewy has their logo printed all over the box, but these seem to be plain corrugated.
  12. I turned 64 in November, not an essential worker, and no underlying health issues - so they're saying I'll be eligible sometime late summer/early fall. I'll get it when it's available. LOML works part-time for a local hospital, so she received round one about three weeks ago, scheduled for round two on Monday. She had a sore arm and slept most of the day after round one, but otherwise no ill effects.
  13. Cyanide-laced Tylenol, I think.
  14. There are some available on Ebay, but I don't know what size you need. 3-Step 6-Step
  15. Woodcraft sells a similar connector that is intended to connect the two pieces through a routed channel rather than a drilled hole: Wood River joint connector The advantage is that you can completely disconnect the two pieces of the top without moving it at all. Of course, if you use dowel pins for alignment, you'll have to move the top away from the corner a little bit to separate the two, anyway.