G Ragatz

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About G Ragatz

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry

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  1. I missed this part of your original post earlier. I would stick with the 6/4 for your rails - not only to resist bowing, but you'll want that thickness to accommodate the bed bolts. Not sure if there's a standard, but I would go with 7" or wider on a queen size bed, both for rigidity and appearance - you don't want it to look skimpy. Also, regarding the bed bolts, there are decorative covers available that disguise the counter-bored holes for the bolts, but also allow easy access for dis-assembling the bed frame: https://www.horton-brasses.com/searchadvanced.asp?searchfor=bed+bol
  2. I think you would want to use a glued M&T joint for the head and foot rails, and use the bed bolts only for the side rails - so there's just one bolt through each post. The bolt would pass through the tenon of the head/foot rail, but that shouldn't be a problem.
  3. G Ragatz

    Calipers

    Calipers are not a daily-use tool for me. I had an inexpensive digital model, but as others have said, the battery always seemed to be dead when I needed it. I picked up an iGaging 6" dial caliper a year or two ago (~ $25) and have been happy with it. It has both a fractional scale and a decimal scale on the dial - one registers 1/64" and the other 0.01". The fractional scale is the outer ring on the dial, and so it's easier to read - and I'd generally prefer to work with the fractions anyway.
  4. G Ragatz

    Hijack!

    I don't watch much TV news, but the New York Times has done three stories on the storm and its impact over the past week. The first, which ran right after the storm was fairly brief. The one that ran a couple of days ago was a pretty extensive article - including lots of photos (in the on-line version). What a mess - best wishes to all with the recovery! https://www.nytimes.com/2020/08/15/us/midwest-storm-farms.html
  5. For the past few months, I've been watching videos from Tom McLaughlin at Epic Woodworking. He does a live show every Thursday evening at 8:00 pm Eastern - "Shop Night Live." These are generally 60-90 minutes, focused on a stand-alone topic - tools, techniques, etc. - but he's also done some as a "series." For example, he has a series on designing furniture. He takes questions during the live session, but also posts the videos on his web site, where they can be viewed for free: https://www.epicwoodworking.com/videos/ With the pandemic shutting down his face-to-face classes, he has al
  6. Looks like there's supposed to be a third dowel/stretcher between the legs. Replacing that would probably require taking the stool apart. In the first picture, it looks as though the top is attached to the legs with screws, so it may be relatively easy to get the top off. Are the two remaining stretchers loose, or are they attached tightly to the legs at both ends? You'll need to get them free of the legs at one end or the other so that you can get a replacement stretcher in. You'll need to drill or chisel out the ends of the broken stretcher that are still stuck in the legs and then glue
  7. Doesn't sound right to me. Paste wax should have the consistency of a slightly soft bar of soap.
  8. The main part of the bench is only about 1-1/8" thick, so I was thinking that an old school holdfast wouldn't get enough "bite," but maybe I'm wrong.
  9. So, not as exciting as what some others have received, but there’s an interesting back story I thought I’d share. I bought a Sjobergs multi-function bench from Lee Valley a couple of months ago, and wanted a hold-down or two. I ordered one made by Sjobergs, which works great, but it’s pricey at $85. So early last month, I was looking for alternatives, and came across this Kreg self-adjusting bench clamp, which was selling for around $50 on Amazon. One evening, I was doing a more thorough search, and found it on sale at walmart.com for $43.37 – so I ordered one. This is how t
  10. I've seen Boggs Tool mentioned on another forum for file and rasp sharpening - have not used them. https://boggstool.com/file-division
  11. I don't think I've ever seen a circular saw that could cut that bevel with the saw plate on the flat of the desk. I guess you could clamp some blocking to the underside of the top and cut with the plate on that blocking to get the angle you're after, but even then, it would only work well for one wing of the desk or the other, because the saw won't tilt the right way for the other wing. I think I'd go with a block plane for the bulk of the stock removal and finish with a rasp and/or chisel. @Ronn Wsuggests a spoke shave, which could be useful, too - I always seem to have a hard time gett
  12. Seems as though lap joints would be a reasonable choice for the end-to-end pieces. Depending on how much stock you're willing to waste, you can get a lot of side-grain to side-grain gluing surface this way. You would probably need cauls to keep these pieces flat while glue dries - maybe need to run them through a jointer and planer after glue-up. If this is done well, I'm not sure you would need any special joinery side-to-side - should be pretty much like gluing up solid stock. But if you want insurance, @wtnhighlander's T&G suggestion seems reasonable. Or maybe a simple spline.
  13. Interesting. When we were building, we were told that we could put hot pots and pans on the quartz top with no problem - so we've done just that. I cook 5-6 nights/week, and routinely set pots straight out of the oven or right off the stove onto the countertop. 3-1/2 years in, I can't see any sort of stain or discoloration. Our countertop is dark, and has sort of a terrazzo pattern, so stains might not be too visible - but I looked it over, at an angle under bright light, and I can't see any sign of discoloration. Probably the same crew that sandblasts the pots and pans and steam c
  14. The man-made quartz stuff, like Silestone, too. We have that in our (relatively) new home, and I love it. I see cooking shows on TV where they will take a pan straight off the hot stove and set it on what appears to be a wooden cutting board or counter top - but I have no idea what kind of wood surface you can do that to without scorching it.