G Ragatz

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About G Ragatz

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry

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  1. I've seen pine cabinets in rustic or country-style kitchens that I thought looked nice - although it's not a style I favor. I haven't lived with them, so I don't know about durability, but I would guess something like SYP would hold up okay.
  2. You can use isopropyl, if it's 99%. The stuff sold in drug stores as "rubbing alcohol" has too much water in it.
  3. I've read somewhere (maybe on this forum) that you can use 99% isopropyl alcohol: https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Brand-Isopropyl-Antiseptic-Technical/dp/B07J62C1K5/ref=asc_df_B07J62C1K5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309813749887&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3766740523878511852&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019264&hvtargid=pla-608429329898&psc=1
  4. Like you, all my tools are mobile, and I attach/detach dust collection (a shop-vac with Dustopper or a small Delta dust collector with a Super Dust Deputy) machine by machine. It IS frustrating that there isn't better standardization in the dust collection world, but I've managed to find workable solutions for everything in my shop. I use the type of fitting @higtron suggests on my bench-top jointer and bench-top band saw. I have them set up as a "permanent" attachment to the tool, and have tightened the other clamp just enough to provide a snug fit for a shop-vac sized hose - works pretty well for me. I also have a set of the Rockler small-port adapters, as well as their "Quick Change Multi-Port" set. Finally, I have a shop-vac adapter kit from Ridgid: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Hose-Diameter-Adapter-Kit-for-Wet-Dry-Vacs-3-Piece-VT1755/202077239 With this collection, I have a (relatively) easy-on/easy-off connection for all of my tools. The tough part is remembering which adapter I need for each tool - need to figure out a labeling system someday...
  5. G Ragatz

    New router

    Congratulations on the new tool. I have its little brother - the MOF001 - and like it a lot. Here's a spiral bit with a 2" cutting depth. I don't know the brand, but at least it seems someone makes them this length: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V9QP7QP/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07V9QP7QP&pd_rd_w=uD83e&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=rJ430&pf_rd_r=GJTCDDCE6BJ69MHV3867&pd_rd_r=ca5c738a-bc95-401c-b6c6-d1765db46a65&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzNFVTTFBUNFI3TjE4JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDM2MzQ3S0QzTEg5RVJWNVg4JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyODI2NzYxS09WSlhSSkxWVlNHJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
  6. I like the idea of having the gate leg swing from the middle. If you have room to make the base wider, that would be great - but even without that, I think a 15-16" gate leg for a 25" leaf, 5/4 thick would probably work. I respectfully disagree about the bottom stretcher. The leg under the leaf won't have to resist much, if any, racking - it's just a vertical support for the leaf. But if you do away with the bottom stretcher, I'd make the upper stretcher wider. I think that might turn it into what they call a "swing leg" as opposed to a "gate leg" design.
  7. Chuck, You'll also need to figure out the proper length for the blade. If you don't have a manual for the saw, you can probably Google the model number and find out. You can also figure it out for yourself: 2 x vertical distance between the center of the top wheel and the center of the bottom wheel + 3.14 x diameter of the wheel. Measure it twice - once with the tension adjustment at its tightest setting and once at its loosest setting, and use a blade length about midway between.
  8. That's not much gluing surface, especially with end grain, and that lid isn't dainty. I'd go with a screw.
  9. I don't think I'd mix the finishes - something is going to look like it doesn't belong. A bit of googling suggests that brushed brass hinges are difficult to find, but here is a polished brass knob that is along the lines of the one you like: https://www.thebuilderssupply.com/richelieu-bp842130-contemporary-metal-knob-842 Another alternative might be to make your own wooden knob, in the shape of the one you like. It's a pretty basic shape - shouldn't be too hard to replicate. You could either use walnut to match the box, like in your sample photo, or use a contrasting wood.
  10. I used to have a jig like this one (this isn't the exact one - mine came from HF): https://www.amazon.com/wolfcraft-4525404-Muilt-Angle-Attachment-Drills/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=asc_df_B000JCIMEA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309869401414&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16699775802145619&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019264&hvtargid=pla-435397281518&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63364097444&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309869401414&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16699775802145619&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019264&hvtargid=pla-435397281518 I used it mostly for drilling accurate 90* holes where I couldn't use my DP, but it could also do angles. It was a little clumsy to work with, but did a reasonably good job. For your project, I think you'd want to clamp it to the post.
  11. If you have a drill press, you could make that type of cut with a large Forstner bit: https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9245H-3-Inch-Diameter-Forstner/dp/B00EPBVKZO/ref=asc_df_B00EPBVKZO/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241941495556&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9890833922962249329&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1019264&hvtargid=pla-437106849838&psc=1
  12. Instructions that came with my DeWalt SCMS are to push the saw, also. But I looked at a copy of "Mastering Woodworking Machines," by Mark Duginske, and he discusses the SCMS, briefly, as an "alternative to the radial-arm saw." (The book has a 1992 copyright, which I guess is about the time the RAS was starting to fall out of favor.) There, he says: "The beauty of the sliding compound miter saw is that it offers the option of three different sawing techniques. Like the miter saw, the blade can be lowered through the work. As with the radial-arm saw, the blade can be pulled through the work. It also allows the third option of pushing the saw through the work, which is a European concept." He goes on to say: "It may take some time to get used to the push technique, but once you do it will seem very natural. When you think about it, pushing is the logical way to cut. No one would ever consider pulling a portable circular saw backward when cutting a sheet of plywood, yet that is exactly what you are doing when you pull a radial-arm saw through a piece of wood. Pushing allows you the option of feeding the blade a manageable amount of material. When the blade is pulled into the wood, it has a tendency to feed itself and can take too much material at once. This creates the familiar radial-arm saw phenomenon of the saw bogging down, which in turn causes a rough cut." So that sounds to me like the issue with the pull cut is one of control and the impact of lack of control on cut quality - but not an issue of safety. If that method is the one Tom is familiar with, and he gets good results, then I don't see anything wrong with it. I'm going to give it a try - if it improves dust collection and I can control it okay, I might be a convert.
  13. I think it's all a matter of your perspective and your priorities. I have friends who have paid $75K for a car, $5K for a set of golf clubs, $4K for a bicycle. I own a car, I play golf, and I do enjoy riding my bike, but pretty much regardless of the balance in my checking account, I don't think I would ever pay what my friends did for their toys. On the other hand, I mentioned to a friend of mine that I had bought a nice hand plane for a little over $200, and he was shocked! He's a capable DIY-er (better at plumbing and electrical than carpentry) - but he said he didn't think he'd ever spent more than $30 on a single (non-electric) hand tool.
  14. @wtnhighlander has an elegant solution that would be low cost and pretty easy for the Average Joe to install (but if the rack is very wide, installing the cleat precisely plumb would be critical, or the hook board will be visibly out of level). The type of hardware @treesner suggested looks like it might work, but that particular design looks like it might be too wide to attach to a stud. A similar alternative would be something like this (pretty expensive, but maybe there are cheaper versions out there): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X3V98YJ/ref=psdc_9628891011_t2_B071G98PN6 @Chestnut asked an important question, and I'd also want to know how wide the hook board is. The answers determine how much torque will be applied to the fastening system. If the hook board is only a few inches wide, or if it's just for hanging something light weight like key chains, lots of solutions might work. If the hook board is wider and people might be hanging heavy winter coats on it, different story - like Chestnut, I'd want it attached to the wall in two places.