G Ragatz

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About G Ragatz

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry

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  1. Here's a commercial product that works like what Coop described: https://www.selbyhardware.com/shelf-magic-hidden-shelf-wire-supports/
  2. I've never built a table with that kind of mass for the top, but I'd be reluctant to build it with stretchers only at the tops of the legs. If this is going to be used as a "work table" (i.e., you don't need to be able to slide chairs under it), then I'd go with wide stretchers at the top, with corner braces, and another set of wide stretchers maybe six or eight inches off the floor. If you need to get chairs in there, you might be able to use a "double-y" type of stretcher down low. I think the Arts & Crafts people call it a hayrake stretcher.
  3. I suppose it depends to some extent on what you'll be working on. Most of my projects are small/medium sized furniture and some boxes. The chisels that see the most use are 1/4", 1/2", 3/4" and 1".
  4. Mine is 1 5/8". Don't know if that's a standard or not, but it looks about right to me. Any deeper, and it might start to interfere with access to the top drawers.
  5. I agree on more than just a single screw. Maybe a couple of short dowels, or a dowel and a screw for each leg?
  6. I think what the OP has in mind is something like this, where the legs are on an angle, and there's a pair of stretchers connecting legs diagonally across the bottom from each other, with a lap joint where the stretchers cross. I'd assume this will provide some measure of racking resistance, but I don't know how much - and I assume it would be a function of the dimensions of the unit and the dimensions of the stretchers.
  7. I don't do a lot of carving, but I suspect the answer has something to do with the type of carving you expect to do. The stuff I've done is relief carving on flat stock. I have a "beginners" set of knives from Pfeil. I think this is the set : https://www.woodcraft.com/products/carving-4pc-intro-set?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2cX2zZvQ6QIVicDACh2buwSfEAYYAiABEgIPs_D_BwE Pfeil is a pretty well-respected brand. I've been happy with these for what I do. Narex is a little less expensive brand that might serve you well. I don't have any of their carving knives, but have several of their chisels that I'm happy with.
  8. At Woodpeckers' web site, they list the country of manufacture as China. https://www.woodpeck.com/routing/router-accessories/portamate-3hp-router-motor.html . It's under the "Additional Information" tab.
  9. Today, I got a set of 1:1 scale drawings for a Shaker-style end table from Tom McLaughlin at Epic Woodworking. Next up is some cherry lumber from Bell Forest Products!
  10. It's surprising what you can fit into a smaller vehicle. I drive a Buick LaCrosse, and with the rear seats folded down, I can haul a limited amount of 8' stock - it has to rest on the console between the front seats. No problem to haul 60 bf or so of shorter (<6') stock - plenty for most of the projects I do. Unfortunately, no way to fit 4-by sheet goods, let alone 5x5 BB.
  11. Looks like a beam compass. I think that fixture off to the right in your last pic should hold a pencil.
  12. I've never cut epoxy-coated wood before, but I'd guess it's going to want to chip along the cut line. It might help to take a straightedge and a utility knife or an awl and score the cut line before using the saw. Making a long cut on a narrow piece like these shelves, you'll need to make sure the shelf doesn't tip while you're cutting. If you're using a circular saw, the best thing would probably be to cut it on the floor, with a sacrificial piece of plywood under it. I can't tell from the photo how thick those slabs are, or what type of wood it is, but unless you have a pretty heavy-duty saw available, it might take a couple of passes to get through it. I don't like to second-guess, and it certainly depends on your tastes and the specific application, but 12" doesn't sound like an unusually deep shelf to me. The wooden bookcases in my home office are a foot deep, and 12" is one of the standard widths for pre-finished shelves in home improvement stores.
  13. One of my concerns about your original drawing is that it's going to leave the back side of your false drawer front lower than the bottom of the "drawer," so there would be sort of a ledge in front of the keyboard. The ideas @rainjer posted would seem to take care of that. If you would like to consider a different approach, I wonder if the false drawer front could hinged to the stretcher of the table, so it would swing down (180*) to reveal an actual drawer (with no front) that slides out on heavy-duty under-drawer slides? This costs you the fold-down legs and the support they provide. I don't have a good sense of how much a keyboard weighs, or how much additional force your sister might put on it while she plays - but good slides can handle quite a bit of weight. I'm not sure if this approach would make the table prone to tipping forward into your sister's lap - don't know all of the dimensions and how much leverage there would be.
  14. Not sure if they would have the data available to do that. "Lot tracking" is a big deal in the food industry and in pharma, for obvious reasons. Also in automotive and aviation. Not so sure about something like clamps. Bessey may not have very good information about where the bad batch of clamps ended up.
  15. As I understand it, in the early days, workers at Minnesota-based Hormel used gouges from Canada to chop up the meat to produce Spam.