G Ragatz

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry

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  1. If it really only needs to last through the summer, I wouldn't bother with the Flexseal - the stuff's not all that cheap, especially if this is the only use you have for it. Just finish it with whatever you have sitting around the shop.
  2. We have a fridge surround similar to what you show in your drawing. Others have mentioned the possibility that the opening doesn't accommodate a different fridge - a legitimate concern. The only advantage of the surround I've been able to identify is that it keeps stuff from falling off the counter into the space between the counter and the fridge. If I had it to do over, I'd go without the surround. I assume the countertop on the peninsula is wider than the standard 25" in order to allow for seating along the peninsula. I think I'd shorten the cabinets at the right end of the peninsula to make the "knee space" run the entire length of the peninsula. Gives you seating for at least one more person, and that corner cabinet is going to be too deep to be useful anyway.
  3. I have this one DeWalt small impact driver (or maybe its predecessor - I've had mine for a year or two) and have been happy with it. I didn't shop around much, as I was already bought into the DeWalt line and already had lots of batteries for it. I use it mainly as a screwdriver, and don't notice that it's particularly noisy.
  4. If it were my table, I'd do anything I could to make the legs of solid stock. Not because your plywood approach wouldn't be strong enough, but because I would really want to taper the legs. For a table the size you're building, I figure you'll want legs that are 3" or 3-1/2" square at the top - smaller, and it will look insubstantial, even if it's structurally sound. But legs that size, if they aren't tapered are going to look awfully "clunky." I'd want to taper the two inside faces of each leg from full width just below the apron to maybe 2" or 2-1/4" at the bottom. If you need to, use S4S, as @wtnhighlandersuggested and glue up three or four pieces to get the thickness you need. Taper at the table saw. If oak to match the apron is cost-prohibitive, you might consider using a less expensive hardwood and ebonizing it to contrast, rather than match the apron.
  5. I bought a Sjobergs "Apartment Workbench" (based on the documentation that came with it, I think Sjobergs considers it a "multi-function bench") from Lee Valley about a year ago, to give me something to use while a shop-made bench is in (very slow) progress. I was pleasantly surprised at how solid it was after I assembled it. Rack resistance seemed good - but it was newly assembled. First time I tried to use a plane on some stock in the face vice, the real problem became apparent. The bench is just way too light - about 80#. Even a light stroke with the plane made the legs at the opposite end want to jump. So, I added sides, back (leaving space at the top for clamps), a middle shelf and a bottom shelf of 3/4" ply - no more worries about racking. Then I added three 60# bags of sand to the bottom shelf, and I have a bench that weighs ~ 300#, with a low center of gravity. It's not nearly as pretty as it was when I first assembled it, but it works quite well. My only hesitation in recommending it is that when I bought it last year, I paid a little under $500, delivered. Right now, Lee Valley is asking $845. Apartment Workbench
  6. If you're concerned about weight and limited resaw capability, maybe you could use vertical slats on the sides and back instead of solid panels. If you have some 8/4 stock, you could make 1/4" x 1-3/4" (or so) slats on your table saw. You could mortise them into the top and bottom rails (if you're ambitious) or set them into a groove in the rails, with a little glue and a couple of pin nails. Choose the spacing between to make it even across the side. I don't think you'd have to worry about wood movement with slats that size, and it might be kind of an attractive look.
  7. Is that the show with Tom McLaughlin? He has a small green bandsaw that feeds the opposite of any other bandsaw I've seen. Not sure what the brand is. He has a larger saw that he uses for resawing that feeds the "normal" way.
  8. I don't think so - he recognizes that the purpose of a split jamb is to accommodate walls of different thickness, but that's not the OP's issue. The OP is changing the thickness of his doors, not his walls. The jambs are fine as-is, but the stop either needs to be narrowed or moved back to allow a proper fit for the new doors.
  9. I've seen rabbeted jambs on exterior doors before. Always assumed it was just to add strength. But on the ones I've seen, the "stop" runs all the way to the far edge of the jamb (away from the door) rather than the narrower 1-3/8" or so shown in the OP's picture. I wonder if something like this might work (there would still be some clean-up with hand tools): Dremel flush-cut
  10. If it's the mortise in the door you're concerned with, then I like Chestnut's idea. If it's the mortise in the jamb, you're probably going to have to fabricate your own filler blank. All the commercial ones I've seen are intended to be painted. If the old door is being discarded, you might be able to cut filler blanks from the surface of the door. Otherwise, I'd look for some 1/8" veneer in a species similar to your jambs.
  11. Maybe just strips of blue tape every couple of inches to hold the veneer to the substrate? A few pin nails?
  12. Check the link in the second paragraph of the original post - seems to still work.
  13. I did something like this a few years ago, and I found an adhesive that was specifically for foamboard - I think it was a Loctite product. Got it at either HD or Ace Hardware. Applied like construction adhesive, with a caulking gun. Not terribly expensive, as I recall. Worked fine. I believe some adhesives will dissolve foamboard.
  14. We have wire shelving in a couple of linen closets in our home. I like the airflow the wire allows - we don't have to worry if some towels or bed linens go onto the shelf with some residual moisture from the laundry. But as you note, storing small items on these shelves was a pain. My solution was to cut some Masonite pegboard to fit and put that on top of the wire shelves, slick side up (shelves where we store only towels or bed linens were left as-is). Small items can stand up on it, and won't slip through the shelf like they did with wire-only. Not entirely elegant, but it works pretty well.
  15. We built a new home about 5 years ago, and the sort of wire organizers you have were our builder's "standard" closet organizer. We looked at a couple of homes that had their "upgraded" organizers, and were not impressed. We ended up buying customized organizers through Home Depot, from an outfit called SimplyNeu . They have an on-line design tool that allows you to input the dimensions of your closet and then design the mixture of shelves, drawers, full- and half-height hanging space, etc. that meets your needs. They send you a kit with everything pre-cut and a set of assembly instructions. Shelving and heights for rods are adjustable. Material is 3/4" particle board with a vinyl/plastic coating. Not cheap, but not outrageous - I think we spent ~ $600-700 per decent-sized walk-in closet. Five years in, I have no complaints - would do it again. Nobody's going to mistake these for custom organizers built by a craftsperson, but they are solid and functional. They offer two types of organizers - one that rests on the floor and one that hangs on the wall from a metal cleat. We went with the hanging style - easy to clean under. Since we made the decision early, we had the builder install 2x6 blocking in the closet walls at the appropriate height - so I didn't have to worry about finding studs during install.