G Ragatz

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About G Ragatz

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry

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  1. Instructions that came with my DeWalt SCMS are to push the saw, also. But I looked at a copy of "Mastering Woodworking Machines," by Mark Duginske, and he discusses the SCMS, briefly, as an "alternative to the radial-arm saw." (The book has a 1992 copyright, which I guess is about the time the RAS was starting to fall out of favor.) There, he says: "The beauty of the sliding compound miter saw is that it offers the option of three different sawing techniques. Like the miter saw, the blade can be lowered through the work. As with the radial-arm saw, the blade can be pulled through the work. It also allows the third option of pushing the saw through the work, which is a European concept." He goes on to say: "It may take some time to get used to the push technique, but once you do it will seem very natural. When you think about it, pushing is the logical way to cut. No one would ever consider pulling a portable circular saw backward when cutting a sheet of plywood, yet that is exactly what you are doing when you pull a radial-arm saw through a piece of wood. Pushing allows you the option of feeding the blade a manageable amount of material. When the blade is pulled into the wood, it has a tendency to feed itself and can take too much material at once. This creates the familiar radial-arm saw phenomenon of the saw bogging down, which in turn causes a rough cut." So that sounds to me like the issue with the pull cut is one of control and the impact of lack of control on cut quality - but not an issue of safety. If that method is the one Tom is familiar with, and he gets good results, then I don't see anything wrong with it. I'm going to give it a try - if it improves dust collection and I can control it okay, I might be a convert.
  2. I think it's all a matter of your perspective and your priorities. I have friends who have paid $75K for a car, $5K for a set of golf clubs, $4K for a bicycle. I own a car, I play golf, and I do enjoy riding my bike, but pretty much regardless of the balance in my checking account, I don't think I would ever pay what my friends did for their toys. On the other hand, I mentioned to a friend of mine that I had bought a nice hand plane for a little over $200, and he was shocked! He's a capable DIY-er (better at plumbing and electrical than carpentry) - but he said he didn't think he'd ever spent more than $30 on a single (non-electric) hand tool.
  3. @wtnhighlander has an elegant solution that would be low cost and pretty easy for the Average Joe to install (but if the rack is very wide, installing the cleat precisely plumb would be critical, or the hook board will be visibly out of level). The type of hardware @treesner suggested looks like it might work, but that particular design looks like it might be too wide to attach to a stud. A similar alternative would be something like this (pretty expensive, but maybe there are cheaper versions out there): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X3V98YJ/ref=psdc_9628891011_t2_B071G98PN6 @Chestnut asked an important question, and I'd also want to know how wide the hook board is. The answers determine how much torque will be applied to the fastening system. If the hook board is only a few inches wide, or if it's just for hanging something light weight like key chains, lots of solutions might work. If the hook board is wider and people might be hanging heavy winter coats on it, different story - like Chestnut, I'd want it attached to the wall in two places.
  4. As I understand it, they accommodate braces/stretchers that provide racking resistance and also facilitate attachment of the cabinets to the wall and base (and also attachment of the cabinet top). The braces are rabbeted at the ends, and dadoed in between, for vertical divider panels.
  5. How about a table saw, maybe with the blade set a little higher than you normally would - finish with the hand saw.
  6. I have never done bluing, but that sounds like it might work. I did refresh the markings on a ruler a couple of years ago. Cleaned it up with vinegar/water, then used black Rustoleum paint. Dabbed on a small amount at one end and spread it with an improvised squeegee - a piece of a bike inner tube glued to a shim. It has held up well so far.
  7. Doesn't @applejackson work at a Rockler store? Maybe he can find out.
  8. I wonder if filling the kerfs with a glue/sawdust mixture might work? Put it in the cuts before you bend, and scrape/sand after. It certainly wouldn't be invisible with a clear finish, but better than nothing. How are you planning to finish the deck surface?
  9. From what I've read, with the ammonium chloride method, the heat breaks the ammonium chloride down into ammonia gas and hydrochloric acid, and the acid actually burns the wood. The info I've been able to find on the Varathane product says it "reacts with the tannins in the wood" to create the scorched look - no heat required. It also seems that with the Varathane product, you can reverse (or maybe just reduce) the scorching by wiping with bleach - so it sounds like it's a different sort of chemical process.
  10. Sorry to be late to the party, but I was looking at the current issue of Wood magazine this evening, and noticed a short blurb about a product that, based on the picture that went with the blurb, seems like it might get you the look you're after. It's called Varathane Charred Wood Accelerator. Might be worth investigating.
  11. Our local PBS station ran season 1 last year, when they were still calling it Rough Cut with Fine Woodworking. I enjoyed all of the episodes. I've only seen a couple of the older ones, with Tommy Mac, and I prefer McLaughlin's style. I hope they're working on a second season. There's a web site for Woodsmith Shop - https://www.woodsmithshop.com . If you click on the "About the Show" tab, they have a picture of the hosts. Our local station is currently running season 10 episodes (apparently, season 12 is the latest), and Chris Fitch is in them, but the other two guys are different.
  12. I like that suggestion much better than my own!
  13. I agree with @badbitbucket about "too busy," and I think the issue with the rails and stiles that Coop raised is a part of that. A couple of thoughts: You might make the middle set of doors look like the top cabinet, and have the doors swing up and slide into the cabinet. Hardware something like this would work: https://www.wwhardware.com/kv-8050-up-and-under-inset-flipper-door-slides-kv8050pez (just an example - I don't know if these are good ones or not). That would cut down on the number of stiles in the design. If you go that route with the middle doors, I think you could then make all of the rails and stiles the same width. If you want to clean it up further, you could eliminate the faux stile in the middle of the bottom doors. I think the idea of making the horizontal members comprising the carcases run all the way across the width of the cabinet makes sense. A few other thoughts: I think there may be a clearance issue with the game board storage box, as drawn. If the outside of the box is as close to the edge of the door as it appears, I don't think it will clear the side of the carcase when you open/close. You could set it in a bit from the edge of the door, or maybe you could angle the side of the storage box. You might want to check the size of some of the games you'll want to store there, to make sure they'll fit. Related to that, it seems to me that the narrow shelf at the back of the lower cabinet will be nearly useless - narrow, low and hard to reach. Maybe you could make the game board storage larger, to use up more of the depth of the cabinet. Clearance issue is still there. I'm guessing that the top cabinet will probably remain open when you're using the equipment stored there. You'll need to think about proper hardware to hold the top open. I also wonder if it would make sense to hinge the fronts on the top, so that they could swing down flat to the top, when it's open. Looks like a neat project - hope this helps. Gary
  14. I think the answer depends a lot on what you build and what you like. For me, I work most often with cherry, walnut and hard maple, and rarely use stain. My most commonly used finish for furniture is a satin polyurethane. Personally, I buy most finishes as-needed and don't worry too much about the price. I might stock up a bit on the satin poly if there were a good deal available, but the stuff doesn't last forever - I wouldn't buy more than a year's supply at one time.
  15. I work mostly with power tools, but use hand tools to refine/clean-up what the power tools have done and, sometimes, to do jobs my power tools can't do. I don't own any "premium" chisels - my basic set are 21st century-vintage Stanley Sweetheart bench chisels - 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1". For what I do, I'm not sure premium chisels make sense - I have the idea that they are for folks who use their chisels all day, every day. I have added, as needed, some individual chisels - mostly Narex. There is a 3/8" mortising chisel, a 1/2" dovetail chisel, and 1/4" and 1" cranked neck chisels. For my work, I've never seen a need for a chisel wider than 1". Regarding dadoes - I work mostly with 3/4" stock (hence, the 3/8" mortising chisel), so 3/4" dadoes are common. In drawers, I usually use 1/4" plywood bottoms, so 1/4" dadoes are also common. As @RichardA said, what you need depends on what work you do.