G Ragatz

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About G Ragatz

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry

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  1. G Ragatz

    How to show the grain on pine

    From what I've read, with the ammonium chloride method, the heat breaks the ammonium chloride down into ammonia gas and hydrochloric acid, and the acid actually burns the wood. The info I've been able to find on the Varathane product says it "reacts with the tannins in the wood" to create the scorched look - no heat required. It also seems that with the Varathane product, you can reverse (or maybe just reduce) the scorching by wiping with bleach - so it sounds like it's a different sort of chemical process.
  2. G Ragatz

    How to show the grain on pine

    Sorry to be late to the party, but I was looking at the current issue of Wood magazine this evening, and noticed a short blurb about a product that, based on the picture that went with the blurb, seems like it might get you the look you're after. It's called Varathane Charred Wood Accelerator. Might be worth investigating.
  3. G Ragatz

    Classic Woodworking TV

    Our local PBS station ran season 1 last year, when they were still calling it Rough Cut with Fine Woodworking. I enjoyed all of the episodes. I've only seen a couple of the older ones, with Tommy Mac, and I prefer McLaughlin's style. I hope they're working on a second season. There's a web site for Woodsmith Shop - https://www.woodsmithshop.com . If you click on the "About the Show" tab, they have a picture of the hosts. Our local station is currently running season 10 episodes (apparently, season 12 is the latest), and Chris Fitch is in them, but the other two guys are different.
  4. G Ragatz

    Design Opinions requested

    I like that suggestion much better than my own!
  5. G Ragatz

    Design Opinions requested

    I agree with @badbitbucket about "too busy," and I think the issue with the rails and stiles that Coop raised is a part of that. A couple of thoughts: You might make the middle set of doors look like the top cabinet, and have the doors swing up and slide into the cabinet. Hardware something like this would work: https://www.wwhardware.com/kv-8050-up-and-under-inset-flipper-door-slides-kv8050pez (just an example - I don't know if these are good ones or not). That would cut down on the number of stiles in the design. If you go that route with the middle doors, I think you could then make all of the rails and stiles the same width. If you want to clean it up further, you could eliminate the faux stile in the middle of the bottom doors. I think the idea of making the horizontal members comprising the carcases run all the way across the width of the cabinet makes sense. A few other thoughts: I think there may be a clearance issue with the game board storage box, as drawn. If the outside of the box is as close to the edge of the door as it appears, I don't think it will clear the side of the carcase when you open/close. You could set it in a bit from the edge of the door, or maybe you could angle the side of the storage box. You might want to check the size of some of the games you'll want to store there, to make sure they'll fit. Related to that, it seems to me that the narrow shelf at the back of the lower cabinet will be nearly useless - narrow, low and hard to reach. Maybe you could make the game board storage larger, to use up more of the depth of the cabinet. Clearance issue is still there. I'm guessing that the top cabinet will probably remain open when you're using the equipment stored there. You'll need to think about proper hardware to hold the top open. I also wonder if it would make sense to hinge the fronts on the top, so that they could swing down flat to the top, when it's open. Looks like a neat project - hope this helps. Gary
  6. G Ragatz

    Wood finishes for beginner set

    I think the answer depends a lot on what you build and what you like. For me, I work most often with cherry, walnut and hard maple, and rarely use stain. My most commonly used finish for furniture is a satin polyurethane. Personally, I buy most finishes as-needed and don't worry too much about the price. I might stock up a bit on the satin poly if there were a good deal available, but the stuff doesn't last forever - I wouldn't buy more than a year's supply at one time.
  7. G Ragatz

    concerning chisel and dado/groove sizes

    I work mostly with power tools, but use hand tools to refine/clean-up what the power tools have done and, sometimes, to do jobs my power tools can't do. I don't own any "premium" chisels - my basic set are 21st century-vintage Stanley Sweetheart bench chisels - 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1". For what I do, I'm not sure premium chisels make sense - I have the idea that they are for folks who use their chisels all day, every day. I have added, as needed, some individual chisels - mostly Narex. There is a 3/8" mortising chisel, a 1/2" dovetail chisel, and 1/4" and 1" cranked neck chisels. For my work, I've never seen a need for a chisel wider than 1". Regarding dadoes - I work mostly with 3/4" stock (hence, the 3/8" mortising chisel), so 3/4" dadoes are common. In drawers, I usually use 1/4" plywood bottoms, so 1/4" dadoes are also common. As @RichardA said, what you need depends on what work you do.
  8. G Ragatz

    Outdoor kitchen

    Tony, You might want to take a look at this: http://www.penofin.com/wood-stains/ultra-premium-red-label-wood-stain I read about one of the company's related products in a woodworking magazine article about an outdoor furniture build. I contacted the company to ask about softwood applications, and they recommended the "Red Label" product. I abandoned the project I had in mind, so never used it - so, unfortunately, no first-hand experience. One of the attractions was that you're supposed to be able to refresh the finish without stripping/sanding.
  9. G Ragatz

    attaching table top to legs

    Learned a new word today. Love the image
  10. @Fab02, I think you'd probably be okay just screwing the brackets to the edge, as-is. I don't think that the glue joint will be a problem - it should be as strong as the wood itself. But if you're concerned about screwing into end grain, then I think Byrdie's suggestion makes sense. @riqmar - I might be missing something, but it seems that if the OP just installs dowels, he'd still be screwing into end grain, unless he has a way to cut his own dowels so they would be side grain. ETA: @riqmar - just re-read your post. Missed what you said about the direction to insert the dowels. Makes sense now. OP would just need to either disguise, or make a "feature" of the ends of the dowels.
  11. G Ragatz

    attaching table top to legs

    I guess another way to provide some racking resistance would be to splay the legs (nothing I built - just a pic from an on-line retailer): If you double up your stock, as you mentioned, to make the legs ~ 1-1/2" thick and, say 3" wide at the top (taper them, so they don't look clunky) and attach them to the top with a 3/8" deep mortise/tenon, you'd probably be okay on a coffee table.
  12. G Ragatz

    Gluing End Grain Cutting Boards

    That's a beautiful board, but I'd never be able to use it in the kitchen. Between that pattern and the (mandatory) glasses of wine, I'd be too dizzy to cook dinner!
  13. G Ragatz

    Large miters

    +1 Just make the shelves narrow enough to give yourself a little bit of play inside the bracket, and you should be good.
  14. G Ragatz

    Cutting Styrofoam on a Bandsaw

    Congratulations on the new saw! As for the styrofoam, I think I'd just crack it over the edge of my workbench to get manageable sized pieces.