G Ragatz

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry

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  1. I'll throw out a couple more ideas and you can see what you think: Even if you can only slide the door to the left, you could still build it as two smaller doors that both slide the same direction. Visually, this might look a little more refined than a single massive door. And you might find that for access to the office, just opening one door is adequate in most cases. If the space to the left of the office door opening is precious, you could consider two doors with a by-pass setup, so you would only need about half as much clear space to the left of the office door. This is an example (for illustration - I don't know anything about this particular hardware). Regardless of what configuration you use, you'll want to do something to prevent the door(s) from swinging against the wall/woodwork and doing damage. Maybe just some vinyl bumpers (or does barn door hardware typically include some sort of bottom track - I've never used this type of door?)
  2. To my eye, the diagonal braces look a little too "rustic" for a finished cherry door. All a matter of individual taste, of course, but if it were my home, I'd go with a frame, as you've drawn up, with horizontal slats. See attached pic for something similar to what I have in mind. M&T, half-lap or bridle joints would all work for the frame. I like Chet's idea of dowel pins for added strength and as a decorative element. That's a large door - do you have space on each side to make it two narrower doors that would slide apartt from the center?
  3. And it's probably a much easier drive now than it was two years ago!
  4. A few thoughts on the video: If the test is to determine which type of "glue joint" is strongest, I'd say the test results favor the "conventional wisdom." The only glue joint that fails is the end-to-end. For the other types up glue ups, the wood fails before the glue joint. I mostly build furniture, and I'm having a hard time coming up with an example of a situation where an end-to-end glue up is an alternative to a side-side or side-end glue up. So, it seems like the comparison this guy is doing is something that never comes up in my world. In a situation where I might need to glue stock end-to-end to get components longer than the solid stock I have available, I'm still not going to use just an end-to-end butt joint - it will be a finger joint or a bridle or half-lap. Although these weren't tested in the video, I have a pretty good idea how it would turn out.
  5. If it really only needs to last through the summer, I wouldn't bother with the Flexseal - the stuff's not all that cheap, especially if this is the only use you have for it. Just finish it with whatever you have sitting around the shop.
  6. We have a fridge surround similar to what you show in your drawing. Others have mentioned the possibility that the opening doesn't accommodate a different fridge - a legitimate concern. The only advantage of the surround I've been able to identify is that it keeps stuff from falling off the counter into the space between the counter and the fridge. If I had it to do over, I'd go without the surround. I assume the countertop on the peninsula is wider than the standard 25" in order to allow for seating along the peninsula. I think I'd shorten the cabinets at the right end of the peninsula to make the "knee space" run the entire length of the peninsula. Gives you seating for at least one more person, and that corner cabinet is going to be too deep to be useful anyway.
  7. I have this one DeWalt small impact driver (or maybe its predecessor - I've had mine for a year or two) and have been happy with it. I didn't shop around much, as I was already bought into the DeWalt line and already had lots of batteries for it. I use it mainly as a screwdriver, and don't notice that it's particularly noisy.
  8. If it were my table, I'd do anything I could to make the legs of solid stock. Not because your plywood approach wouldn't be strong enough, but because I would really want to taper the legs. For a table the size you're building, I figure you'll want legs that are 3" or 3-1/2" square at the top - smaller, and it will look insubstantial, even if it's structurally sound. But legs that size, if they aren't tapered are going to look awfully "clunky." I'd want to taper the two inside faces of each leg from full width just below the apron to maybe 2" or 2-1/4" at the bottom. If you need to, use S4S, as @wtnhighlandersuggested and glue up three or four pieces to get the thickness you need. Taper at the table saw. If oak to match the apron is cost-prohibitive, you might consider using a less expensive hardwood and ebonizing it to contrast, rather than match the apron.
  9. I bought a Sjobergs "Apartment Workbench" (based on the documentation that came with it, I think Sjobergs considers it a "multi-function bench") from Lee Valley about a year ago, to give me something to use while a shop-made bench is in (very slow) progress. I was pleasantly surprised at how solid it was after I assembled it. Rack resistance seemed good - but it was newly assembled. First time I tried to use a plane on some stock in the face vice, the real problem became apparent. The bench is just way too light - about 80#. Even a light stroke with the plane made the legs at the opposite end want to jump. So, I added sides, back (leaving space at the top for clamps), a middle shelf and a bottom shelf of 3/4" ply - no more worries about racking. Then I added three 60# bags of sand to the bottom shelf, and I have a bench that weighs ~ 300#, with a low center of gravity. It's not nearly as pretty as it was when I first assembled it, but it works quite well. My only hesitation in recommending it is that when I bought it last year, I paid a little under $500, delivered. Right now, Lee Valley is asking $845. Apartment Workbench
  10. If you're concerned about weight and limited resaw capability, maybe you could use vertical slats on the sides and back instead of solid panels. If you have some 8/4 stock, you could make 1/4" x 1-3/4" (or so) slats on your table saw. You could mortise them into the top and bottom rails (if you're ambitious) or set them into a groove in the rails, with a little glue and a couple of pin nails. Choose the spacing between to make it even across the side. I don't think you'd have to worry about wood movement with slats that size, and it might be kind of an attractive look.
  11. Is that the show with Tom McLaughlin? He has a small green bandsaw that feeds the opposite of any other bandsaw I've seen. Not sure what the brand is. He has a larger saw that he uses for resawing that feeds the "normal" way.
  12. I don't think so - he recognizes that the purpose of a split jamb is to accommodate walls of different thickness, but that's not the OP's issue. The OP is changing the thickness of his doors, not his walls. The jambs are fine as-is, but the stop either needs to be narrowed or moved back to allow a proper fit for the new doors.
  13. I've seen rabbeted jambs on exterior doors before. Always assumed it was just to add strength. But on the ones I've seen, the "stop" runs all the way to the far edge of the jamb (away from the door) rather than the narrower 1-3/8" or so shown in the OP's picture. I wonder if something like this might work (there would still be some clean-up with hand tools): Dremel flush-cut
  14. If it's the mortise in the door you're concerned with, then I like Chestnut's idea. If it's the mortise in the jamb, you're probably going to have to fabricate your own filler blank. All the commercial ones I've seen are intended to be painted. If the old door is being discarded, you might be able to cut filler blanks from the surface of the door. Otherwise, I'd look for some 1/8" veneer in a species similar to your jambs.
  15. Maybe just strips of blue tape every couple of inches to hold the veneer to the substrate? A few pin nails?