G Ragatz

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About G Ragatz

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry

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  1. I'll add my endorsement for California Air products. I have a small one in my shop - does everything I need it to do (mostly pneumatic finish nailer and filling my bike tires) and very quiet. I'm just a hobbyist, so I may be missing something, but why would a one-person woodworking shop need a 60-gallon air compressor?
  2. I agree - and you'll also see it without necessarily going looking for it. Sometimes the unexpected reminders of people you care about are the most pleasant.
  3. I often find HD's web site entertaining. I followed @treesner's link to have a look at the kit and, scrolling down the page a bit, found the "Frequently Bought Together" section. It lists this kit ($34,499), a kit for a 48'x60' garage ($41,999) and a kit for a 44'x40' garage ($39,999). "Price for all three: $116,497." Yeah - I'll bet somebody places an order for that combination every couple of days. Maybe they have a lot of customers like my wife - she orders three sweaters, decides which one she likes best, and sends the other two back.
  4. Might try Minwax Wood Hardener. I used it on an exterior window sill that had some water damage. It held up well for a few years - sold the house about 3 years ago, so I don't know how it's doing now.
  5. I agree with @BillyJack about a simple grid layout. Given that you plan to have multiple shelves, I think I'd plan different layouts by shelf, and plan that based on what your collection of bits looks like. For narrow bits - straight, spiral, groove bits, etc. - I'd drill the holes 1-1/4" - 1-1/2" apart. For edge profile bits or rail and stile door bits, you might want a little wider spacing to allow room for your fingers. You don't need to put an insert into every hole - put them in where needed, as needed.
  6. A friend of mine has the Ridgid and has been happy with it. I have had a Wen for ~ 3 years, and am satisfied with it. It doesn't see a ton of use, but does a good job sanding. Dust collection is mediocre. It's a spindle-only - no belt like the Ridgid. Table is smaller and doesn't tilt - but it costs just more than half as much as the Ridgid.
  7. A very handsome piece - nice job! I've never worked with butternut - love the grain.
  8. Ah - got it! Maybe this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Plumber-s-Choice-5-in-x-4-in-PVC-Flexible-Reducing-Coupling-with-Stainless-Steel-Clamps-E73845X4/305473562?mtc=Shopping-VF-F_D26P-G-D26P-26_1_PIPE_AND_FITTINGS-Generic-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PIPE_AND_FITTINGS_General&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_D26P-G-D26P-26_1_PIPE_AND_FITTINGS-Generic-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PIPE_AND_FITTINGS_General-71700000055362041-58700005218218023-92700046076001410&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmsrxBRDaARIsANyiD1qjqUjKRqa-IlZAP8TP1GqzDpHHMw9FSR9r5pYlwKw-ukFh2LFZITAaAi_OEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
  9. Rockler has this: https://www.rockler.com/dust-right-4-rubber-union-for-dust-collection for 4" to 4" connections. Was the 4-7/8" OD you mentioned in an earlier message correct? I thought the HF unit had a 4" port.
  10. I think epoxy is considered "food safe," so even if there are some tiny fragments from chopping/slicing on the board, I don't think it would be a health/safety problem.
  11. @Kes121 Question about your photos - is the epoxy fill as wide as it appears to be in your photos, or has the epoxy flowed onto the surface of the slab on either side of the crack, and you'll sand/scrape/plane that overflow away? If the fill is really as wide as it appears, then I agree with @RichardA - the bowties will look odd, floating in the epoxy. But if there's just a narrow crack that will show epoxy after you've surfaced the top, then the bowties will be both functional and attractive.
  12. These guys seem to have the entire adjustment assembly available, but I couldn't find just the screw. The assembly seems a little pricey, but I don't know your budget vs. time spent on alternate solutions. https://www.mmtoolparts.com/store/jet-100016acp
  13. Seems like a look at the edges where the leaf meets the main part of the table might help with determining whether it's veneer or solid.
  14. Jesse, I think what you'll find there is a bunch of junk and/or plans copied from other sources, probably in violation of copyright laws. As others have suggested, it kind of depends on what type of projects you're interested in, but here are some sources I have found useful for free or low-cost woodworking plans: Wood Magazine: https://www.woodmagazine.com/project-plans/free?page=1 Jim Barry's Woodworker's Shop: http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/resources/index.php?cat=102 Rockler: https://www.rockler.com/project-ideas Taunton Press: https://www.tauntonstore.com/project-plans.html These cost a few bucks, but are quite detailed. Gary
  15. G Ragatz

    Squeaking table

    Dad always used paraffin, so that's what I've always used, but I was watching an episode of Ask This Old House just last night, and Rich Trethewy was recommending soap for lubricating wooden drawer runners. Everybody has a bar of soap in the house, so maybe it's just a convenience thing?