G Ragatz

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry

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  1. That's a very large benchtop. In a small shop, I wonder if you wouldn't be better off with a smaller workbench for hand tool work and a separate outfeed/assembly table. A torsion box design would be a good choice for the outfeed/assembly table, and maybe a smaller workbench would make solid wood an affordable option. Doesn't need to be fancy wood - Chris Schwarz like Southern Yellow Pine. If you're wedded to the torsion box design, you might look at this article from Popular Woodworking for some ideas.
  2. Our son has taken offcuts of cherry, maple and oak to use in his smoker. He tried some walnut once, but didn't care for the flavor.
  3. I've run across this video before, and I don't find it very surprising, nor very convincing, for a couple of reasons: The only glue joint that failed at all in his testing was the end-grain joint. In the rest of the cases, it was the wood that failed, not the glue joint. This is right in line with the conventional wisdom that in typical woodworking joinery - edge-to-edge, M&T, lap, etc. - the glue is stronger than the wood. The only situation where I can imagine a woodworker contemplating an end-grain-to-end-grain joint is when s/he is trying to make a longer piece out of two shorter pieces of stock. If that's the situation, then the relevant comparison would be an end-to-end butt joint vs. a lap joint or a finger joint - and I'm pretty sure I know how that would come out.
  4. My bad - I stopped scrolling before I got to the Flare Leg version. I think I'd stick with my estimate of 1-3/4 to 2" for the straight part of the legs. The flare looks to me to be a little less than half the width of the straight part. It might help to get a sheet of poster board and cut out some silhouettes to see what proportions look right.
  5. @Coop- on their website, they say this unit is 64" wide, so I'd say those legs are 1-3/4" to 2" on the front face. I'm not sure the legs taper "out" at all - that might be distortion in the pic. I think maybe the outside edge is straight and there is just a taper on the inside of the leg, below the carcase - seems like that would be consistent with Shaker style. Best guess is it tapers to about 5/8 of the width of the leg. Looks like the legs are ~4" long.
  6. I think I've seen a product called Metal Rescue at Autozone - that might be it.
  7. Cypress might be another species to consider, if it's available where you are.
  8. I bought a couple of "project packs" from Bell in 2020, when we were not getting out much due to the pandemic. These were shorts, all milled to a consistent 13/16". I was pleased with the quality of the lumber I got. Straight and flat, not too much sapwood. Hope you have a similar experience.
  9. The place I buy most of my lumber has a variety of milling options, all of which seem pretty reasonably priced. They'll joint one face for $8.00 minimum and $0.08/bf for 100 bf and over. I always go for at least that much milling, as I only have a 6" benchtop jointer. I have a 12" planer, so I can take it from there if I need/want to. S2S is another $0.09/bf (100+). They'll joint a side, rip a clean edge and then surface two sides for $0.25/bf (100+) - this is what I usually do. This doesn't guarantee that the stock will be uniform thickness from board to board - they try to remove the minimum amount of stock to get each surface smooth. 4/4 rough stock usually ends up at about 7/8", but it varies a little. They have an option to have stock milled to your specified final thickness, which costs a little more, but I've not tried that (I try to buy 100 bf at a time, and I don't always know what finished thickness I want for all of it). It pretty much always makes sense for me to have them do most of the milling. Now, they also sell individual S4S boards that they have milled to 1/2", 3/4" or 1" - ready to sand lightly and finish. These sell for probably about twice what you would pay per bf compared to rough stock. I've done this a few times when I just needed a board or two for a small project (and especially when I didn't want to screw around planing thicker stock down to 1/2"), but it gets expensive.
  10. We have 3 stools at a 63" island in our kitchen. That's fine for the grandkids, but cozy for three adults. I'd say 24" per stool would be comfortable.
  11. For the convex side, I think you could rough it out with a few passes through a band saw with the table tilted to put multiple shallow bevels on the face of the workpiece, then clean it up with a hand plane or on a belt sander. Might also be able to take this approach at the table saw, but I'd fear for my fingers. For the concave side, the cove cutting method @Coopreferenced would probably work. You could also consider freehanding it with an angle grinder attachment like these: https://kutzall.com/collections/dish-wheels If the brushes/combs in the picture are actually what you're trying to produce, I'm not sure the concave back is even necessary - can't see what function it serves.
  12. A few years ago, I bought a FWW archive on a USB drive when they were running a sale, and recycled all my hard copies that were covered by the archive. I've been keeping an eye open for a discount on the Wood Magazine archive - if it comes along, I'll recycle those hard copies, too. Search capability in the electronic archive is not perfect, but helpful (and better than my ability to search the hard copies). I can print articles if I'm going to use them in the shop (laptop doesn't go there) or if I want to make notes on them.
  13. I used a product call RoomSketcher to develop a layout for a basement finishing project. Thought it was pretty easy to use and reasonably flexible. https://www.roomsketcher.com/
  14. Happy with my DeWalt corded, 5+ years - but it doesn't really see a ton of use.
  15. Will do. It will be a couple months - SWMBO is forcing me to avoid the Michigan winter for another three weeks.