G Ragatz

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About G Ragatz

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry

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  1. G Ragatz

    Help with kitchen peninsula table top

    Nice job - turned out great! I really like the contrast with the white cabinets - definitely shows off the walnut.
  2. G Ragatz

    narrow shop paper towels

    Farm and Fleet has some that are 9-1/2", made by Sellars - still not as short as the half-sheet kitchen paper towels, though.
  3. G Ragatz

    Tool wall for deep bench

    I would think wider, and not so tall - it would be a PITA to crouch/bend over to get to the tools down below. A drop-in system like for the knives in the photo would work for some tools - e.g., awls - but not so well for others, like wide bench chisels where the business end is as wide or wider than the handle. Might also be a problem in terms of identifying the tool you're after - all my bench chisels look the same from the handle end.
  4. G Ragatz

    Magnet tool strip spacers

    I have looked at the magnetic strips, but haven't used them. Do they have enough holding strength that bumping an adjacent tool doesn't cause it to fall off? The tools in this picture seem way too close together for my clumsy fingers to be able to pull out a tool without jostling the ones on either side. I'd hate to see a good chisel hit the floor (or my foot) just because I bumped it. The magnets seem like a good solution for screwdrivers and such. I wonder if something like a dentil molding attached to the top or bottom of the strip would work.
  5. G Ragatz

    Hall Tree

    Almost had heart failure. Saw the first picture from Pinterest, then saw your "Here is the door without a finish" picture, and I thought you were going to paint it white! Very nice finished product - always good to score points with the DIL!
  6. G Ragatz

    How could i flatten my table top?

    Plenty of good advice from the folks here. I'd add that you might want to consult with your instructor. He/she may have a preferred way for you to address the problem, and, more importantly may be able to help you figure out why the problem occurred, so you can avoid it in the future.
  7. G Ragatz

    Hand Tool Storage

    Hi Kev, Beautiful work! I've been thinking about a hand tool cabinet - something smaller, as my tool collection is a lot smaller (though it won't quite fit in a gallon jug). I have a question about cabinet design and/or location. It seems like with the height of your cabinet, it will be quite a stretch to reach some of those tools up top, especially reaching over your bench. Does that setup work well for you? I was thinking something mounted lower would work better for me, but I don't know about interference between the doors and things on the bench. Gary
  8. G Ragatz

    New Shop Build in NE Ohio

    I agree with others that the front-facing gable on the garage looks better - breaks up that long face of shingles along the front. Also agree with Chestnut about the steeper pitch - it will look better, and may get you some useful storage space. 18' seems pretty narrow for a two-car garage - ours is 20' 8" and I wish we'd made it wider. Could you consider making the garage a little wider and making the breezeway a little shorter. Somehow, the breezeway looks odd to me as wide as it is. I would also set the breezeway back a few feet, if possible, to break up the line from garage to house.
  9. A couple of thoughts: Regarding your diagram "A" - I think I would square the end of the stretcher rather than angle it as you show in the diagram. It will be easier to square the inside of the mortise (notch) with a chisel than to get that acute angle. I don't know that your mortises need to extend as far into the leg as you show in diagram "A." If you make it, say, 1-1/2" it should still provide plenty of support, and you'll retain more leg stock around the joint (and you'll have a little less chisel work to do). Unless you're putting a glass top on the table, these joints won't be visible from the top, so you don't really have to make the inside corners of the mortises perfectly square. So, if your chisel-handling skills are limited, don't worry. As others have mentioned, if you can position the legs so that the mortises are perpendicular to the side of the leg, life will be easier - then you just have to worry about the joint where the stretchers cross.
  10. G Ragatz

    How to support workbench stool cutout

    If the OP really wants to go the torsion box route, I'd at least put a couple more crossmembers inside each box. And Byrdie's right - the plywood tops and bottoms need to overlap the stretchers. Even then, I wouldn't store anything precious on those shelves (but then, I wouldn't walk out on that cantilevered deck over the Grand Canyon, either).
  11. G Ragatz

    How to support workbench stool cutout

    The torsion box design will provide strength to prevent racking (horizontal, in this case), but I wouldn't think it would provide much vertical strength. How about just a 2x2 running vertically from the unsupported corner of each shelf up to the stretcher below the bench top?
  12. G Ragatz

    Help with kitchen peninsula table top

    I agree that 3/4" material should be strong enough for a 12" overhang, especially with the corbels for added support. For appearance sake, I think you will still want to add the bands around the edge, to make it look thicker - this is the way laminate and solid surface countertops are usually built. Given that you still need something under there to make the connection to the cabinets, it might be just as simple to go with the plywood. And with the plywood, you wouldn't need the corbels, unless you want them for decoration. The corbels, while they might look nice, could be knee-knockers when you're sitting at the counter.
  13. G Ragatz

    Help with kitchen peninsula table top

    If you're going to surround the plywood with the hardwood bands glued to the top panel, I'm not sure how firmly you need to attach the top panel to the plywood base. At that size, even with the top panel 4" wider on each side, there won't be much tendency for it to tip - and you could easily make the plywood base a little larger and make the hardwood bands narrower. I wonder if some silicone caulk between the top panel and plywood might work - it would keep the top from sliding on the plywood, but would also let the top panel expand and contract with humidity. Are you planning any sort of edge treatment for the top? Don't know that you need anything elaborate, but a little round-over or a chamfer might be a nice finish look.
  14. I guess I'd use straps at the top and 3 or 4 of these things near the back edge on the bottom: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-in-Heavy-Duty-Anti-Skid-Surface-Pads-4-Pack-49644/203661092
  15. It appears that the mirror is designed to sit on the floor, which also seems like the most stable situation, anyway. Rather than trying to hang it, I'd keep it on the floor and just go with one or two of those anti-tip straps at the top, anchored to studs.