G Ragatz

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About G Ragatz

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    East Lansing, MI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, cabinetry

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  1. Seems like you'd want to cut them at 90* so the ends would look like end grain at twice the thickness, no?
  2. Admitted "wedding cynic" here - nothing against people getting married (I've done it myself, with good results) - just some of the things they do to celebrate the event. What's going to happen to these 24 tables after the wedding?
  3. I have a buddy who has a sauna - he says it's cedar - and he uses this product: https://www.amazon.com/Northern-Lights-Group-SEALANT-interior/dp/B00AWHHXOW Says the outfit that installed the sauna used it, and recommended that he re-seal at least the benches and ceiling every two or three years. He's been using it on the floor also, and has done the walls once. He's had the sauna about ten years, and says he's happy with the result.
  4. I would think that corner brackets would help. You can buy metal ones or make your own from some of your leftover wood stock. https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Mount-Corner-Brackets-Aprons/dp/B002L6K5G0/ref=asc_df_B002L6K5G0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241947538459&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2188752478819816816&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011951&hvtargid=pla-473221180487&psc=1
  5. I'm not familiar with Marc's jewelry box, so I don't know exactly what size(s) you might be looking for. Home Depot carries a number of "Mr Beam" battery operated, motion activated LEDs: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Mr-Beams-Mini-Stick-Anywhere-Motion-Activated-LED-Night-Light-6-Pack-MB706-WHT-06/300852243
  6. G Ragatz

    New Table Saw

    Sorry - PM2000B is what I searched for. A little disconnect between brain and typing fingers.
  7. G Ragatz

    New Table Saw

    Not trying to be an apologist for Acme, but I can't find the PM1000B for sale on their web site. If they're not currently selling the product, maybe there's no place to post the review?
  8. G Ragatz

    Work Bench Top

    Sjobergs sells a smallish top with a shoulder vise and dog holes. There's an optional front vise. https://www.sjobergs.se/en/products/schools_woodworking/index.php?id=110&cat=1&lang=en&artnr=33110
  9. Jason, I bought into the DeWalt 20V line a couple of years ago. I have a couple of drill/drivers (one "standard" and one "compact"), an LED light, a circ saw, a miter saw, and a reciprocating saw. Compact router is on its way from the BORG I've been very happy with all of the tools. I have a half-dozen batteries that either came with the tools or were bought when they were deeply discounted - never have to worry about running out of juice. I don't know whether DeWalt has anything on Milwaukee or Makita - just the direction I went. But, no regrets.
  10. I would think that either dovetails or box joints would be best for the corners. I think I'd use sliding dovetails for the shelves.
  11. G Ragatz

    New Table Saw

    It's a shame about all of the problems you've had with this machine - but I guess I don't think Acme's policy is unreasonable. On a product like this, where the retailer is just a reseller (as opposed to say, Sears selling Craftsman tools, back when they actually owned the Craftsman brand), I would assume that Acme's responsibility is to deliver the product in good working condition. If the product is damaged when it's delivered, that's either Acme's fault or their carrier - Acme should refund or replace and work out who's responsible between them and the carrier. If the product is undamaged, but not working out of the crate, Acme should refund or replace, and work out the responsibility between them and PM. For problems that develop a few months after delivery, it's hard to see how that's Acme's responsibility. I'm sure that PM would prefer to fix the problem by replacing parts, given the cost of shipping a product like this, but when push comes to shove, they'll need to step up and replace the saw. If you make a big enough fuss, you could probably get a refund, but I'd bet it will be a long, drawn out process.
  12. It's a little hard to tell from your pics just what is missing and/or broken. Looks like there was originally a keyed lock and also some spring-action latches on the doors. The answer depends, in part, on whether you want to try to get it back to how it was originally, or just want to be able to keep the doors closed without tying the handles together. I've had pretty good luck finding "restoration" type hardware at Van Dyke's - https://www.vandykes.com/ . You could search there for "cabinet lock" or "cabinet latch" and see what looks similar to what you have. If you don't care about actually locking the doors, you might just go with a lock escutcheon to make it look like a lock, without actually installing a locking mechanism.
  13. John, Your sources are right about the spray shellac. It is de-waxed, but they don't make that information very prominent. There's nothing about it on the front of the can. They mention it, almost in passing, on the back of the can, under "Uses." Seems like this could lead to some confusion. I could see someone who has used the spray product, but has a bigger piece to finish, picking up a larger can, assuming it's exactly the same product. I was very happy with the spray, but I was using it as a finish coat, so no experience with putting another finish on top.
  14. I think you could improve the stability in shelving mode if you run a piece of stock under the front edge and rear edge of the bottom shelf - essentially making the "feet" run the entire width of the unit. This would increase the surface area of contact between two units when they're stacked, giving some additional resistance against them shifting. You could take this a bit further, and add another piece of stock under each end of the bottom shelf, inset just enough from the end to capture the top "tab" of the unit below.
  15. At the risk of committing sacrilege on a woodworking forum, I'll suggest you consider painting part of the table. I've seen some nice looking tables with a wood finish top and white, gray or gray-green legs/aprons or bases. It makes for a lighter/brighter look, while maintaining the wood look on top.