G Ragatz

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Everything posted by G Ragatz

  1. My bad - I stopped scrolling before I got to the Flare Leg version. I think I'd stick with my estimate of 1-3/4 to 2" for the straight part of the legs. The flare looks to me to be a little less than half the width of the straight part. It might help to get a sheet of poster board and cut out some silhouettes to see what proportions look right.
  2. @Coop- on their website, they say this unit is 64" wide, so I'd say those legs are 1-3/4" to 2" on the front face. I'm not sure the legs taper "out" at all - that might be distortion in the pic. I think maybe the outside edge is straight and there is just a taper on the inside of the leg, below the carcase - seems like that would be consistent with Shaker style. Best guess is it tapers to about 5/8 of the width of the leg. Looks like the legs are ~4" long.
  3. I think I've seen a product called Metal Rescue at Autozone - that might be it.
  4. Cypress might be another species to consider, if it's available where you are.
  5. I bought a couple of "project packs" from Bell in 2020, when we were not getting out much due to the pandemic. These were shorts, all milled to a consistent 13/16". I was pleased with the quality of the lumber I got. Straight and flat, not too much sapwood. Hope you have a similar experience.
  6. The place I buy most of my lumber has a variety of milling options, all of which seem pretty reasonably priced. They'll joint one face for $8.00 minimum and $0.08/bf for 100 bf and over. I always go for at least that much milling, as I only have a 6" benchtop jointer. I have a 12" planer, so I can take it from there if I need/want to. S2S is another $0.09/bf (100+). They'll joint a side, rip a clean edge and then surface two sides for $0.25/bf (100+) - this is what I usually do. This doesn't guarantee that the stock will be uniform thickness from board to board - they try to remove the minimum amount of stock to get each surface smooth. 4/4 rough stock usually ends up at about 7/8", but it varies a little. They have an option to have stock milled to your specified final thickness, which costs a little more, but I've not tried that (I try to buy 100 bf at a time, and I don't always know what finished thickness I want for all of it). It pretty much always makes sense for me to have them do most of the milling. Now, they also sell individual S4S boards that they have milled to 1/2", 3/4" or 1" - ready to sand lightly and finish. These sell for probably about twice what you would pay per bf compared to rough stock. I've done this a few times when I just needed a board or two for a small project (and especially when I didn't want to screw around planing thicker stock down to 1/2"), but it gets expensive.
  7. We have 3 stools at a 63" island in our kitchen. That's fine for the grandkids, but cozy for three adults. I'd say 24" per stool would be comfortable.
  8. For the convex side, I think you could rough it out with a few passes through a band saw with the table tilted to put multiple shallow bevels on the face of the workpiece, then clean it up with a hand plane or on a belt sander. Might also be able to take this approach at the table saw, but I'd fear for my fingers. For the concave side, the cove cutting method @Coopreferenced would probably work. You could also consider freehanding it with an angle grinder attachment like these: https://kutzall.com/collections/dish-wheels If the brushes/combs in the picture are actually what you're trying to produce, I'm not sure the concave back is even necessary - can't see what function it serves.
  9. A few years ago, I bought a FWW archive on a USB drive when they were running a sale, and recycled all my hard copies that were covered by the archive. I've been keeping an eye open for a discount on the Wood Magazine archive - if it comes along, I'll recycle those hard copies, too. Search capability in the electronic archive is not perfect, but helpful (and better than my ability to search the hard copies). I can print articles if I'm going to use them in the shop (laptop doesn't go there) or if I want to make notes on them.
  10. I used a product call RoomSketcher to develop a layout for a basement finishing project. Thought it was pretty easy to use and reasonably flexible. https://www.roomsketcher.com/
  11. Happy with my DeWalt corded, 5+ years - but it doesn't really see a ton of use.
  12. Will do. It will be a couple months - SWMBO is forcing me to avoid the Michigan winter for another three weeks.
  13. Thanks for that info - will file away for future reference.
  14. Seems like that would work for the kits that use a wheel to turn the screws. Not sure how well it would work with the TFWW kit, which has longer handles - I think there would be interference with the benchtop. Thanks to all for your thoughts. I believe I'm going to order the TFWW kit and probably build a configuration like they show on their web site, with a short ledge behind the rear jaw instead of a full bench-on-bench design.
  15. I'd like to build a Moxon type vise, and I was wondering if anyone has recommendations for a good hardware kit? The Benchcrafted kit is a little too pricey. I think the Wood River kit, at $100, is probably the top of my price range. I've looked at a kit from Taylor Tools and also one from Tools for Working Wood that are both comfortably within my budget. There's also one from Katz-Moses, but my experience with them is very limited (nothing negative - just not much experience). I read @derekcohen's post on The Last Moxon Dovetail Vise, and he mentions hardware from "Tom Bussey," but I haven't been able to find any information on that. Also, I'm leaning toward a bench-on-bench design - any down-side to that, other than requiring a little more space? Thanks.
  16. The site linked to in the Pinterest post says the plan was excerpted from a "professional book," so maybe whoever owns the copyright on the book asked that FWW remove the post. As an alternative, if you Google "mobile kitchen cart plans," you might find something you like almost as well. I came across this unit from Woodsmith, and I thought it might not be too hard to double it and put open shelves under the drawer on one side - maybe coming close to what you had in mind. https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/kitchen-cart/ If counter space/prep space is important, you might want to consider adding a drop-leaf to the back of the unit that you can use to expand the surface area when needed, but keep the footprint smaller when you don't need the surface area.
  17. FWIW, the current issue of Wood magazine has a comparison of 15 benchtop planers, including 7 more expensive than the 735X. The 735X was their "Top Tool."
  18. I'll throw out a couple more ideas and you can see what you think: Even if you can only slide the door to the left, you could still build it as two smaller doors that both slide the same direction. Visually, this might look a little more refined than a single massive door. And you might find that for access to the office, just opening one door is adequate in most cases. If the space to the left of the office door opening is precious, you could consider two doors with a by-pass setup, so you would only need about half as much clear space to the left of the office door. This is an example (for illustration - I don't know anything about this particular hardware). Regardless of what configuration you use, you'll want to do something to prevent the door(s) from swinging against the wall/woodwork and doing damage. Maybe just some vinyl bumpers (or does barn door hardware typically include some sort of bottom track - I've never used this type of door?)
  19. To my eye, the diagonal braces look a little too "rustic" for a finished cherry door. All a matter of individual taste, of course, but if it were my home, I'd go with a frame, as you've drawn up, with horizontal slats. See attached pic for something similar to what I have in mind. M&T, half-lap or bridle joints would all work for the frame. I like Chet's idea of dowel pins for added strength and as a decorative element. That's a large door - do you have space on each side to make it two narrower doors that would slide apartt from the center?
  20. And it's probably a much easier drive now than it was two years ago!
  21. A few thoughts on the video: If the test is to determine which type of "glue joint" is strongest, I'd say the test results favor the "conventional wisdom." The only glue joint that fails is the end-to-end. For the other types up glue ups, the wood fails before the glue joint. I mostly build furniture, and I'm having a hard time coming up with an example of a situation where an end-to-end glue up is an alternative to a side-side or side-end glue up. So, it seems like the comparison this guy is doing is something that never comes up in my world. In a situation where I might need to glue stock end-to-end to get components longer than the solid stock I have available, I'm still not going to use just an end-to-end butt joint - it will be a finger joint or a bridle or half-lap. Although these weren't tested in the video, I have a pretty good idea how it would turn out.
  22. If it really only needs to last through the summer, I wouldn't bother with the Flexseal - the stuff's not all that cheap, especially if this is the only use you have for it. Just finish it with whatever you have sitting around the shop.
  23. We have a fridge surround similar to what you show in your drawing. Others have mentioned the possibility that the opening doesn't accommodate a different fridge - a legitimate concern. The only advantage of the surround I've been able to identify is that it keeps stuff from falling off the counter into the space between the counter and the fridge. If I had it to do over, I'd go without the surround. I assume the countertop on the peninsula is wider than the standard 25" in order to allow for seating along the peninsula. I think I'd shorten the cabinets at the right end of the peninsula to make the "knee space" run the entire length of the peninsula. Gives you seating for at least one more person, and that corner cabinet is going to be too deep to be useful anyway.
  24. I have this one DeWalt small impact driver (or maybe its predecessor - I've had mine for a year or two) and have been happy with it. I didn't shop around much, as I was already bought into the DeWalt line and already had lots of batteries for it. I use it mainly as a screwdriver, and don't notice that it's particularly noisy.
  25. If it were my table, I'd do anything I could to make the legs of solid stock. Not because your plywood approach wouldn't be strong enough, but because I would really want to taper the legs. For a table the size you're building, I figure you'll want legs that are 3" or 3-1/2" square at the top - smaller, and it will look insubstantial, even if it's structurally sound. But legs that size, if they aren't tapered are going to look awfully "clunky." I'd want to taper the two inside faces of each leg from full width just below the apron to maybe 2" or 2-1/4" at the bottom. If you need to, use S4S, as @wtnhighlandersuggested and glue up three or four pieces to get the thickness you need. Taper at the table saw. If oak to match the apron is cost-prohibitive, you might consider using a less expensive hardwood and ebonizing it to contrast, rather than match the apron.