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About ffs1973@gmail.com

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    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 10/22/1973

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    Furniture and general woodworking projects.
  1. Thanks for the inputt. I think I will go for a tooth 20mm wide, 25 mm deep and 20mm spacing between. So I had planned to do this in one go, but I need to adjust as I go. You are correct this will make a lot of chips I might even put the hole arrangement on a angle? Maybe 30° so they will more or less fall off ?? But I do have a very good woodcollection so it might not be nescessary. I haven't used and dont own a spiral bit, but now is maby a good time to invest in a couple of good whiteside bits. But down or up cut ?? Best regards. TR
  2. Hello.Thanks for ideas I have been thinking of this and I am going to try the following. I did not get to upload images here so I put them on a web site I have, not much yet but the images is here. (http://www.farsflisespikkeri.com/nye.html) I will cut 3/4" plywood strips at 2" high. I will make a jig like a box, that has sides with pre made notches in it that will give me accurate spacing. Then the straight edge part will pop in to these notches. For clamping I am going to try something I have done before with a firehose. Basickally it is a hose that i have a car tire valve in one end of, and has a closed end in the other. Then I just inflate this with my compressor until correct clamping preassure is assured. These firehoses can take 8-10 bars with out no problem. My last use was with a irregular shape, and it worked well. Anyway, when all is cut, stacked and clamped it is about 60 dados to make, but as in my picture I can easy make 50-60 pieces with dentile molding strips about 400-500feet in total length. They will be a part of a 3 piece molding in my house This is what I have come up with, but please comment and give mee more inputt I will try and take pictures and maybe a video of this if it works ha ha ha. Best regards Torgeir Robertsen.
  3. Hello. I was wondering if anybody had a idea on how to make dentle molding. I have just recently finiched my Jugent home and are going to install a 3 piece crownmolding on the wall/ceeling. But I need a lot of dentile mouling at least 120-150 ft. So it will bee a major pain to make all those teeth. How can i do this so that it does't take all of 2015 I also have planes to make a paint pipe dipping system so that I can get quick paint inn all the teeth corners. But that is another matter. I would appriciate if anybody could give mee pointers. I have a fully equiped woodshop, with saws, routers etc. Best regards Norway. T.Robertsen
  4. Hello, long time since I was in this forum and an answer is in place The answer is yes, the colour does fade. It is still quite interesting, but now a more light brown colour. You can see it on my web page, link under. It is cut after aprox 8 months of drying as a log. http://www.farsflisespikkeri.com/skurlast.html Best regards T.Robertsen
  5. Ok some progress in the cutting.. I do not have to much time these days as I am in the final lap of my new home build. A jugent house and I have used almost 6 months on the roofing alone.. http://villarobertsen.blogspot.no/ But any way here is some oppdated pictures of the maple log. It is hard to saw and it would probably have been best too cut it "green" but time is not my friend. The smell is also a bit peculiar, smells like mild vomit ha ha ha, is this what it is supposed to smell ?? The log is 26" Wide and 102" long and I cut them in 4 1/2" thick boards. Heavy monsters. No they will lay here for at least 4 years to dry. I forgott the endgrain sealer, but my doughter applyed it with enthusiasm See it here: http://www.farsflisespikkeri.com/skurlast.html TR
  6. A new url for this : http://www.farsflisespikkeri.com/skurlast.html
  7. If anybody was waiting to see the mentioned bloodbeech when it was cut, here are some pictures. Sadly it seems that the red colour has gone It also have some decay in the senter. TR http://www.farsflisespikkeri.com/timber-to-be-sawn.html
  8. Yes should have ! But in my place and in this country even, cutting things like this is not normal. I know of a saw mill in the south part of Norway ( aprox 400miles away) And the transportation cost alone would make this log in to fire wood So I rather take my chances and cut it my self. Ok not cheap this either since I needed to buy a saw, bar, chain and the Granberg attachment. But this is tools that I will have after the end of this project and that is allways nice. And even how badly I cut this, some wood wil come out of it. And if I am lucky it will be sufficient to make my own rouboworkbench like Mark. And maby some wood too different projects in my new house. Have a nice day. TR
  9. Hello again. This has been a long wait but finally I got started with cutting this big maple. My granberg arrived the other day ( ordered it in november) so ordering from the states takes time Anyway, I desided to cut this log in to 4 pices ( quarter saw it) and do this along the checks wich if you look closely divide the log in to 4 natural segments. This make for a angled cut with the mini mill, but I kinda got it. The mini mill worked well, but it should have had 3 screw holes in the aluminum track segments not only two. The bar flexes a bit. Now the next thing is to lift of the 1/4 part and roll the log over to the left so that I can cut the right half, and finally divide the bottom half in to quarters. I do the sawing with a Stihl MS660 and a 36" bar. To see pictures of this go here: http://www.farsflisespikkeri.com/timber-to-be-sawn.html To see video go to : But the video is not edit'ed and probably not to exciting TR
  10. Hello again. Since I am building my own home at the time, things are slow on my woodworking side. If anybody are interested check out my new Jugent home here: http://villarobertsen.blogspot.no/ Any way, I finally got my Sthil MS 660 saw and have started cutting my big maple log. I was worried that since I have been waiting for as long as I have, the log had gotten too hard. But no problem. And in my mind waiting have been a positive thing. Now I can clearly see where the large checks are. As a consequence I will try and cut it in 4 quarters along its natural checks that is quite visible now. This will make it a "odd" cut where the branch is, but I'll hope for the best. I am thinking in 3-4" thick planks? but maybe this it to thick and the wood will warp to much? For images see: http://www.farsflise...to-be-sawn.html More images will follow as I proceed. Best regards T.Robertsen Norway.
  11. Hello again. What about OSB and plywood sheets ? I see that a 4x8' , 23/32" thick OSB sells for $ 14,87 at homedepot.com in my country it sells for aprox $45. This price difference is also and even more in plywoods. The transportation is not a big deal, I allready take all my handtools and such from Rockler by container boat, and it is not expensive ! 1 powermatic 18" drillpress did cost me $500 delivered on my door after 5 weeks But homedepot.com do not ship sheet gods, only "pick up i store" If not i would have bought my self quite a lot of both OSB and Ply in different sizes and finishes. Are there other big web shops in the states like homedepot. I have seen at Sears.com but they do not have sheetgods like OSB and ply. Any tip ?? Best regards T.Robertsen
  12. Ant tips then of a good beefy drumsander.? Seems to me the ones I have seen are bench sized. If it where to come in 220v it to would bee nice. Thanks
  13. Thanks I will check them out. T.Robertsen
  14. No body who has info and a tip on this ??
  15. Hello. I order my Arm-R-Seal from the states and get it shipped to Norway by myus.com or jetcarrier.com. It works like a charm. TR