houstonjc

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About houstonjc

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture construction

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  1. I still love the look of walnut with bubinga.
  2. I've made chess board patterns before and have experienced the same thing when glowing them to a substrate. I think that your primary issue is that you glued solid wood (which wants to expand and contract) to plywood, which can't. Last weekend here in Houston was wet and humid, and our lumber therefore had more moisture and was expanded. This weekend is dry, and the wood is contracting. Since the squares are glued to the ply, it is pulling the wood inward from all four angles. It may flatten back out when the humidity strikes us again. I found that I needed to ge
  3. For me it depends on how you want the piece to fit in the room. Grain orientation can sometimes make a piece feel taller, shorter, wider or less narrower. The top drawer orientation brings the visual focus to the center of then piece, making it feel smaller in width. The lower drawer orientation spreads out the focus to the sides in long sweeping motions, making the piece feel wider than it actually is (in my opinion, of course). If you have a big room and want it to feel like a big piece, I'd go with the lower orientation. If you don't have a ton of space and want i
  4. 2. I really like the look of the legs above the top. As others have said, it could create movement issues in a solid top. One option is to mortise in small squares of wood in the top to just make it look like the legs are extending through. You get the look without the structural issues (though I'm sure some would find this approach distasteful). 4. To me the skirt height seems awkward. As few inches higher and you impart a light, elegant feel to the case. A bit lower, and you create a feeling of weight and stoutness. Check out the buffet I just completed recently as a non-s
  5. Thanks for the kind words! I definitely wanted to have the grain all moving in the same direction in the front to make the piece feel longer and lower than it is. This would have worked out a bit better if I had not accidentally cut all of my lower rail nortises 2 inches below I intended. Doing that forced me to make the casework larger (taller) than intended, and makes the grain orientation look just a bit off. I tried to address this some by making my stiles a little skinnier and my rails a bit wider to retain some of the originally intended look. In the end I think it worke
  6. Thanks! I looked at hundreds of buffet pictures before landing on a final design, so it's quite possible we had similar inspirations.
  7. Done just in time for Christmas is this walnut and bubinga buffet. I used mostly hardwood for the project (walnut, bubinga, and maple for the drawers) as well as walnut plywood for the side and back panels. Joinery is primarily mortise and tenon, with some rabbet joints for the shelves, and a few pocket holes for the interior vertical panel (the pocket holes will be well hidden). For finish, I used a home-mixed shellac for interior components, and an oil based poly for the exterior. I normally try to avoid stain, but I did apply a mild stain on the walnut to match the chairs in the room.
  8. You're effectively pore filling with finish (it's a small crack, but it's acting the same as a pore). I've done this successfully with wipe on poly. However, I think you'll need to sand back the entire table some. Not enough to burn through the finish and get to the wood; just enough to help level things out. If you don't sand back the areas around the cracks, you'll be chasing flatness coat after coat. When I did this method, i would lay on three coats, then sand back. Then lay on three more and sand back. Rinse and repeat until pores are filled and everything is flat. Then
  9. Ive built the case, but I actually haven't built the doors yet (I thought it would be good to know my hardware choice first). So a quick change to dimensions won't be an issue at all. I think this is the direction I'll go. Thanks!
  10. I think I'm in love with the hinge strip idea, Chet. Thanks! That definitely opens up my options for specific hinges.
  11. Sorry I did mean soss hinges. Head wasn't screwed on straight when I posted. I've edited the post.
  12. Thanks for the thoughts and ideas. I'm not opposed to the square knuckle on the brusso hinges; if anything, a squared off barrel end is going to make for a cleaner mortise and installation. I fear that with most rounded butt hinges, the design of the hinge may not allow the barrel itself to be partially mortised into the case (or the door may not be opened). I'm also not confident that it will look good to have a squared mortise with a rounded barrel. I probably don't want to go much lighter. The doors will be about 22 inches wide and 20 inches tall. That's not huge, but I wa
  13. I'm building a buffet out of walnut and bubinga, and i need some help on what kind of hinges to use on the inset cabinet doors. What makes it challenging is that the left door is inset from the leg by 1/4", whereas the right door is flush with the rest of the front frame of the cabinet. There is not sufficient interior structure to add european style cabinet hinges. I would ideally like to use traditional brass butt hinges (I have other matching furniture in the room that uses these), but the left hinges would need to have the pin mortised into the leg, since the door is inset fr
  14. Amen, Coop. We can't even attract a Lee valley or lie neilson traveling showcase in this town; there's no place to try out hand tools before buying them (other than woodcraft brand tools at their Southwest store). There was a The Woodworking Shows event a couple of years ago, but we appear to be off the rotation these days. At least we've got a good selection of lumber.
  15. I'm between projects and the shop is finally clean, so I thought I'd show it off. We bought the house in no small part of the garage. It came fully loaded with heat, AC (important in Texas) and a bathroom, though I rarely run the AC due to cost. In addition to there bays (2 of which usually hold cars), the builders added a 23'x11' raised extension on the back. It holds most of the shop. I added in more electrical and lots more LED lights. I don't have a proper bench, but have built a large torsion box assembly table. I've added a pipe wrench moxon vise and machinist