Chip Sawdust

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Chip Sawdust last won the day on January 13

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About Chip Sawdust

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    Journeyman Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Greene & Greene, craftsman, furniture, jigs, hobbyist

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  1. It’s a nice gun, and its age doesn’t bother me. This was imported between ‘68-‘73 but Beretta doesn’t have a serial number archive going back that far so that’s as close as I can come. It points really nice, can’t wait to go make noise with it!
  2. Finally got to glue-up for the box. Sanded everything from 100 to 220, did a little tune-up on a couple spots that I left till last, then dabbed some Titebond II on the pins and squared it up. Inserted the false top and now it's taking shape - permanently. So I got out the scraper since this sapele requires a lot of surface prep. Never enough, it seems. Still haven't decided on a finish, but AquaCoat seems to flatten it out quite well. Although I'm starting to wonder if I really need it to be perfectly flat; it's not a table. But it is square. I got stopped because I was running low on propane for my heater and it's snowing today; and a friend dropped by to give me an over/under Beretta 12 GA shotgun... That's a show stopper for sure.
  3. Of that I am envious! We’re out west where there are some woodworking classes available but Latta is my go-to source for most of this stuff. You simply must report back here some stuff you learned!
  4. I have thought about hide glue a lot, but I’m rather a disciple of Steve Latta who uses yellow glue exclusively on his stringing and banding. When he makes various banding, he recommends hide glue but so far I’ve avoided it. If I go into something, I tend to go with all four feet, so I’d need the constant temp pot, the granules and the whole bit The pot is around $160 I think, last time I looked. That stops the show right there, since I have other things I want worse! Thanks for the input though, and one day when I’m better at this and have the hide glue setup I may opt for it to see how it works. Haha thanks Tom. I aim for perfection but more likely than not I settle for what gets done...
  5. Funny you should mention hinges. I bought two or three sets and don’t like any of them. Horton has a perfect set but they’re $40 for a couple tiny hinges. But... they’re perfect! So I’m thinking I should order them. Thanks for the input on the design. I still have options, even after I set the panel into the frame.
  6. I wasn’t happy with the joint, but it’s not TOO noticeable. To make it, I started by cutting the ends at an angle to align with the wood grain of the panel, then drew a line across that to align my chisel at the end. I cut it a tad too short. I added some tiny pieces of holly to try to make it look better and well, there it is. Don’t laugh! It’s my first try!
  7. I tried my hand at treble stringing yesterday. It’s not all that hard, but I wouldn’t call it easy. After routing the groove, the individual strings have to be thicknessed. Keeping in mind the wood swells a bit with glue, the three have to fit well, but easily. It’s a fine line. I started by trying to glue the three together just on the end, which didn’t really work. I added glue as I went along, which was messy but it worked. I was using the syringe I use for all my stringing and some yellow glue.
  8. I pondered adding some fan inlays to the bottom, but feel it makes the design bottom-heavy. I’m open to comments and suggestions The right hand fan isn’t trimmed but you get the idea...
  9. So I thought about adding some ebony plugs left over from my various G&G projects but they didn’t seem to work no matter how I arranged them. And ebony is too spendy to try to cut plugs and so on, so unless I find a GOOD plug cutter I may just leave it as is.
  10. It looks kind of plain. I was going to add berries, but when cutting the 1/4” plugs in some Australian red gum the tool shattered. And 3/8” is too big.
  11. My first attempt at treble stringing, it turned out ok but not 100% happy with the joint. But it looks good and I also fit the clock and planed the panel to thickness. The clock requires a 1/4” recess and the panel is 5/16” o the tip of the Forstner bit made a tiny hole on the back side, but I’m not going to fret over it. Nor am I adding any stringing to the inside of the door, although the plan calls for it, and lettering. I’m just not far enough along in my skill set to try letters. I’ve watched a few videos and have a gouge set but just don’t have the kinesthetic time into it yet.
  12. It’s the first tool I bought from LN and I was amazed with it, like driving a Cadillac after a lifetime of old Chevys Nobody ever complained about having to use one of their tools!
  13. I also use my block plane to joint the stringing material after I cut each string. My cutter does fairly well but I really need to build a proper one. I use a marking gauge I built - for marking. And put an Exacto blade in it. So I joint the stringing material in between each cut by dragging it along the block plane. Here I'm showing the results of one pass over some banding I made way back. It works well on that, too. Another thing Woody if your string gets caught in the sizer, pull it at an angle to skew it like you would a block plane over stubborn grain. That keeps the blade from stopping on a stubborn spot on the string.
  14. Yeah I never bottom it out. When I pulled the collet I found a little dust which I blew out, then reasembled and tightened the crap out of it. I even marked the little Freud container for it "tighten!".
  15. I confess to really liking taking the little block plane and shaving off the holly. It just feels good; I'm sure hand plane users can relate. If it was "normal" wood I'd use it to build things. But you still have to watch the grain when using a chisel or my old foreplane blade to shave the string.