Chip Sawdust

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Everything posted by Chip Sawdust

  1. I’m always trying to find new ways to do things wrong After doing things wrong often enough I eventually learn how not to do it wrong any more! Sometimes I even figure out how to do it better *shrug*
  2. Thé partitions are alder and sapele, just jointed and glued Some 3/4” material together. Ran them through the “real” bandsaw to resaw a little thicker than the 1/4” final thickness, then ran it through the planer to the finished thickness of 1/4”. You can see the feet in the upper left corner of this picture. They’re color-coded, and will be mitered and splined for final assembly, which I’ll do when I’m closer to needing them. The planer took a chunk out of the end of one board. That’s by not paying attention to grain direction, which is more important on thin stuff than any other time.
  3. Started on the front feet as well. Decided to cut them out then plane them from 3/4” to 5/8” which worked out ok although I wasn’t sure it would. A 7/8” Forstner and my small Grizzly bandsaw (which is ok for this kind of work but is NOT a good bandsaw) cut them out. I’ll smooth the curves on my oscillator later on.
  4. Made a little progress today. For a box, this thing sure has a lot of pieces! i need a 3/16” router bit but don’t have one. Tomorrow I have to use a 1/8” and just make two passes. the jig worked perfectly ... after I waxed it, which I did t figure out till the last groove *shrug*
  5. There’s a jig needed to make grooves for the partitions. They have to be 9” long exactly. There are pictures of the jig in the article that accompanies the plan, but no dimensions. So I sized a piece of 1/4” material, made a fence about yay wide that engages the dado on the back side of the box, and added runners for my little DeWalt router. Yeah, I have to use that spiral bit again *eek* Made the jig, tested it on a piece of scrap and pronounced it good. Tonight I’ll make those grooves and all will be well, since I’m gonna tighten the crap out of that bit!
  6. It’s more intricate than I’d anticipated but it’s turned into a fun learning experience so I’ll be able to apply it to the next project. As long as my reach isn’t beyond my grasp, or vice versa
  7. Pins done. I’m liberally using chalk to remind me what goes where. I’m sure my second one will go smoother
  8. I actually did make progress on he box yesterday. Had to change a brake caliper in the car before getting to the woodworking but once I had that started, I paid close attention to the plan (this time) and got the bottom made, tails cut and grooves and rabbets routed. Lots of small corners and joinery on this thing. The base is sapele joined to alder, per the plan but I had more sapele than alder, width-wise, so it’s made differently but at least is the proper size. Today is pins day and I’m not sure if I’ll start the door next or some of the inside pieces.
  9. The thing is with this little DeWalt router, dropping the bit to the bottom takes it well into the flutes. I place it as far in as a little short of the flutes then tighten the crap out of it. Used it yesterday again, a little scared lol but it worked fine. My Bosch never has the problem but it’s upside down isn’t he router table most of the time so that may make a difference. I also sometimes swap out the 1/2” for the 1/4” which may help knock loose some of the issues. Yesterday it was too cold in the shop to move my cheap HF DC hose, so it broke when I tried to bend it around the corner to my router table. Time for better stuff I reckon.
  10. So I got the groove on the correct side... found a little bit of sawdust in between the collet grooves on the router, cleaned that out, tightened the heck out of it, no problems. Still not trusting it, I did run a test groove on another piece (checking for depth) so all is well. Now to fix the piece that tried to split off; two grooves that close on opposite sides of the same board, to be expected. Got that glued and clamped. Next is build the bottom piece; experience with the top will help make that correct. Lots of little details,like different depth grooves on the top and bottom, both 1/4” but one deeper than the other. Stuff like that sometimes catches me out, so I decided to slow down.
  11. Well it won’t be like the plan 100% but it’ll still be basically the same thing.
  12. I’ve used Aqua Coat over shellac but I’m not much help otherwise. First time I used it was on a sofa table I built this summer. I put wax on top of the Aqua Seal. I’d say sapele is about as grainy as wenge but wenge can be pretty grainy for sure
  13. Which is why forums like this are invaluable. We can ask real people doing real things our real questions and get real answers. Reviews are “iffy” at best, and not something on which we should solely base our decisions.
  14. I think I can save it. I’m gonna make some moulding and lay it across the HOLE in the top of the board. Not part of the plan, but the plan is out the window in this are anyway. I just don’t want to replace the board when it’s a waterfall grain effect I was going for. But yeah, it’s still sitting there. I don’t throw things in the shop, but I “dropped” my hearing protection and safety glasses on the bench, went in, fires up the PS4 and killed some monsters Oh and later I had a drink. So there.
  15. So I cut the groove perfectly with my router and a spiral upcut bit. On the wrong side of the board. Ok so I cut a piece and put it in the groove as a patch, flipped the board over and started the cut on the other side. The bit came loose and cut all the way through the board. I’m done for the day.
  16. I agree it’ll be a bit delicate, thanks for the feedback. I’m thinking I’ll try that instead of making the tail smaller. It’ll look worse if it’s half an inch smaller than it’s supposed to be. Now I need to take a look at the rest of it and make sure whatever change I make won’t affect something else I’ve forgotten to thoroughly research! It’s no wonder Latta said it was quite a joinery project.
  17. I normally don’t start threads until I’m close to done but this one started out with an oops so I’ll toss it out here for opinions. I think I know what I’m supposed to do, but it never hurts to kibbutz here I'm building this for my wife for Christmas, with a few changes from Latta’s plans to suit my wife’s use of it. First off I needed wood 11” wide, and I thought I had that but it turns out I could only make it 10 7/8” due to a dip in one side of the board. No biggie, just subtract 1/8” from the depth of everything. I think I can handle that. The top is dovetailed to the side (as is the bottom bit the top is my problem), and there’s a groove along the back to accept the back of the box. I forgot to allow for the groove. I read “dovetail the top” and away I went. So I’m missing about a half inch in the back for the groove. I’m thinking just shorten the rear dovetail and make the groove anyway, what think? The chalk line is about where the groove is supposed to go... The rearmost dovetail is already a bit smaller, but I think it would survive being smaller yet. I don’t think the groove can go into the tails, but maybe. So I’m pondering... and asking for input
  18. The shop I had (pre-divorce) had those exposed fasteners. It was built in the mid-80s though. I was up there too often with tar and fasteners But I did love the way it shed snow. Not that snow is a huge concern in SoCal The good thing is now it’s the ex’s problem!
  19. Stick built with metal roofing. That said, I’ve had both, and metal roofing does have to be maintained, especially in the sun, for leaks after 20: years. Tar, screws, etc.
  20. I dunno, I can’t get over the size of that shop. *shrug*
  21. Derek, wasn’t it you as well who said you used a drill to remove waste from half blind dovetails? I’ve pondered that, as I prefer using a drill over a router, just from a safety aspect. It doesn’t accomplish the same thing as you’ve posted here, but kid of the same effect, I think, yes?
  22. I like the waterfall of grain that goes from the top to the sides. And nice dovetails
  23. Sounds like your IP address has been “marked.”
  24. All I have to add if you’re on FWW is Latta has a video about letters. It’s short but full of information.
  25. 14-40 and CVS for $300? I’d give it a shot and I already have a lathe But to answer your question, I’ve never used or learned anything about that particular lathe.