Chip Sawdust

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Everything posted by Chip Sawdust

  1. My hand tool cabinet needs more hand plane space. When I built it I only had a couple cheap planes; now I have several yet no specific storage for them. Chisels and hammering devices I’m set, but I also want a sharpening station. Except now I have a lathe and the grinder needs to be near it. *sigh* It’ll never be “done.”
  2. I have tools I’ve bought but never used so....
  3. It looks good! You’re right boxes can be fun to do and not a lot of material risk.
  4. Thanks Coop, all hand plane work there, done after it was assembled.
  5. I wouldn’t normally design it that way but the sofa is 7’ wide so the table had to fit it turned out ok and my wife loves it which is the final test!
  6. Yup that’s what I did. Rabbet and fill, and even my fill could be more in line with the blades. I didn’t angle them at all; I do seem to get a slight taper on my strings though. I may have to take another look. Another thing if you look at the LN holder is they’re drilled at the bottom, which allows a sized string to drop out and be pulled through without further ado. Lessons learned
  7. Thanks The tapers were thought of after the design was set but I do think it lightens the look a little bit. Just so everything isn’t so “squareish.”
  8. Yeah it is slick... but to be honest that dog is never going o go off the couch back side. This table is for Mama more than anything
  9. The legs are tapered to help them look a little lighter. I had lots of ideas for them but this is what they ended up being
  10. Et voilà! Thé finished product. Last shop pic and then with Mama’s treatment in situ. I started this mid-July and it’s done today. Good thing I don’t do this for a living!
  11. Sapele is kind of grainy so I used this stuff for the first time. Although the surface is ice and smooth, I’m not happy with the surfacing I did on the table top. Wish I would’ve run it through my planer and flattened it better. After the Aqua Seal I put a couple coats of Johnson’s wax which made it shiny and .... slick!
  12. So another bad thing happened on the way to making this table. I klutzed around in the shop and knocked one of the drawers on the floor. The face broke... and it already had finish on it. It was done, ready to go. (Insert various curses here) So I sanded and shaved off the wood that was sticking out, test fit the pieces, temporarily installed a block to help clamp it, and put a few clamps on the pieces to make the break line as minimal as possible. I couldn’t just shave the wood off and replace it - grain matching, remember? It worked better than I thought. Drawer pulls from Amazon...
  13. Fast forward to the drawers, not much new there. Three drawers, dovetails and plywood bottoms nailed (yes, nailed!) into the rabbeted bottoms of the drawers. I used amber shellac for the vertical surfaces. No shellac for the table top, it needs to be far more durable. I applied wax to the sides of the drawers.
  14. For some reason I decided the drawer faces should be grain matched from the center. This isn’t really something the eye can see but what the heck. So I took the tiger maple to the bandsaw and although the grain does go two ways from the center, the main advantage was thinner drawer fronts which look pretty good.
  15. I figured I’d show how I set up for these ebony inserts. I highly recommend getting the LV square chisels/punches, whatever they call them. I got the set with the sharpener and have used the heck out of them. So i think this sequence is self explanatory.
  16. With a jig left over from my G&G bed frame, I thought the front apron would look good with a cloud lift. I thought about tapers and other mods, but this turned out ok. It started as more of a Federal project but morphed into more craftsman style. It’s a stylistic combo, thrown on top of my own design. I’m ok with it To go along with that since my fan inlays were a tad large for the legs (another imperfect woodworker story), I opted for the pop of ebony inserts against the white maple. Judge for yourself but I think it worked. I checked out a few different locations and landed on this arrangement.
  17. Now here’s where I made either a really bad decision or just forgot how to run a jigsaw. I wanted continuous grain on the apron, and though I could’ve ripped and reflues it on the bandsaw, I opted for the drill hole/jigsaw method. Jigsaw blades tend to angle themselves when cutting thick wood and that is what happened here. I had to do a lot of hand trimming to make it right for fitting drawers.
  18. The drawer dividers got the sliding dovetail treatment.
  19. Meanwhile, back at the leg factory, I put my mini bench to use which holds tapered legs really nicely. I made one of Norm’s taper jigs to taper the legs. There are better designs, but I didn’t have time (or didn’t want to take the time) to make a better one. It works
  20. Moving right along, I decided the ends needed to look a little lighter. So grab a few hand planes, mark the wood and start making a mess on the floor with maple shavings. I think it turned out pretty well. I also shaved the misalignment so now only us folks know
  21. With a jig and the precision fabrication process it looks pretty good lol... The process should’ve worked better than it did, but after aligning and clamping with glue, it wasn’t quite the perfection is was shooting for. But I made it work...
  22. The table top got tiger maple “breadboards.” They were going to be honest-to-goodness breadboards when I started, but I didn’t want to shorten the long piece of sapele so I fashioned a funky router mortise centering jig and made a split to join the parts together. Yeah, I had to stand on my bench to do it but hey, whatever works!
  23. The stretchers are pretty short as a result of the narrow top.
  24. Fit the legs to the aprons and size the “box” to see how it’ll fit on the long, narrow table top. The top is just over seven feet long and only a foot wide, so an odd dimension, but just right for our sofa and the space it fits.
  25. I went with long tenons - why not, the apron is wide so make the tenon as strong as possible. The front apron is sapele while the rear apron was maple. Things that don’t show, I tend to not pay as much attention to detail, and I made my mortises too long on the rear legs, dang it. But... they don’t show, so only I and you all know! I hand cut the tenons so score a line, kinda like making dovetails, then grab thé carcasse saw and go at it.