jadedj

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About jadedj

  • Birthday 06/04/1974

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Long Island
  • Woodworking Interests
    Finishing my first antique table

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  1. Right?? So odd, I'm not sure what to do. Thinking about staining and poly just those spots to see what comes of it. Someone suggested trying different stains and poly combos.
  2. Ugh, so here's what it looks like after some stripper, followed by a steel brush and some denatured alcohol. Thoughts? Do I sand further?
  3. It's a table that's at least 50 years old if not older so I don't think it's veneer. But as you can see from the pics, there are various pieces of wood very cleanly stuck together so perhaps the different wood reacts differently when I add the poly.
  4. I used this for stripping: https://www.google.com/search?q=wood+stripper&client=firefox-b-1-ab&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjUiO6U2JLeAhXoTN8KHVF_CmgQ_AUIDigB&biw=1534&bih=701#spd=5620507950530168119 And then followed with denatured alcohol, using steel wool to clean off what the stripper didn't. I let it dry for about 3-4 days but when I did, it was warmer and humid. Only after stripping a 2nd time did I notice those lighter spots in the wood, before staining. Maybe I need a different type of poly? Should I keep sanding
  5. Legs seem to be OK, but now the table top is acting up. I've restripped it AGAIN and even after sanding it back, restaining and poly, I get white spots. Here are some pics of what it looks like with no stain or poly. And below it are the legs - which I've been able to fix.
  6. Thanks for the advise Chestunt, that helps a lot. Few questions though: Sand between ploy coats? I though that was a no-no; are you supposed to sand between stain coats too? And did when you say, "sand back your finish" - that pertains to the poly coat I'm assuming. Is that right? Also, does it make a difference that even though I let it dry for at least 2-4 days, there are areas in the stain where it still looks wet (kinda sticky to the touch too)? Why doesn't it dry? Do you have to wait 7+ days for oil-based stain to completely dry? Maybe I jumped the gun in adding the poly coat.
  7. Unfortunately, there really isn't anywhere I can "test" the poly or the satin as the underside isn't finished; the only option I think I have is trying a corner but as the inlays are different pieces of wood (there are at least 5 on the ends; the two sleeves have 3 each), the stain nor the poly will be uniform.
  8. I was able to scratch off a lot of the "flakes," which turned out to be air bubbles. Now the only question is WHY they're occurring and if they'll show up on the table top too. Legs I'm not that worried about but the top I am.
  9. Hi Guys - new to woodwork but really enjoying it! I bought this antique table a few months ago and have been working on it ever since. I went through the laborious process of stripping, sanding, stripping some more, etc. Well after 3 or 4 coats of oil-base stain (it was summer in NY so pretty humid) it looked like it was time to add the polyurethane and I thought I'd be eating on it in a few weeks! Not so fast. I started with the legs (thank God) and after applying a coat of poly and letting it dry, there were odd white flakes that showed up. I've attached what they look like, I've a