rkearns10

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About rkearns10

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Artistic, renovation,
  1. You bet man! It's moreso a family home that I took under my wing when my pops got too old to handle. So I'm renovating with intent to sell or rent. Not sure yet. But you're absolutely right man! I'm definitely the ready shoot aim type with probably too much confidence in my abilities, but I guess I just try to remain humble and be a hyper-learner. I'm truly grateful for all the help everyone has given me on this forum and it's all with the best intentions to learn, so I apologize ahead of time if I seem scattered. I was thinking of truing up some bows and waves in this wall to give me a better flush job on the counters, and since I need to tile the backsplash anyway.... are you saying guys will literally just knock out the sheetrock entirely where the counter is and slide it underneath to create the illusion of flush?
  2. Going to bust into these walls and true some things up and give these a go once more, and check back in. I suppose taking that small notch out of the back corner wouldn't be a big deal and would be covered by backsplash and thinset.
  3. Exactly. Right slab has no length to play with....BUT I can see there being some wiggle room to adjust if I fix my walls a bit. Framing is out of whack and there's some major bows in both walls keeping me from being able to truly get these things in square. Given that I'll be tiling I'm going to trim the sheetrock the height of the backsplash and true up the studs, maybe plane out the bows actually. Then reinstall the rock and see what these look like with a flat wall. Do you think that might alleviate some of the issue? Maybe get after that and try again and see how things look? Both slabs are 25" on the money.
  4. Here's an update for you guys... take it easy on me I beg! hah Slightly wonky front corner on the one piece, so don't take that miter as final! So my one run of butcher is limited by a side wall in terms of length to play with, so I've cut this piece to as close as I can get it to final placement (the right piece in the picture). My left piece is not capped by any wall or obstruction so I have length to play with and left this piece slightly long in hopes of getting the miter (close to) perfect and then trimming the back end. But for the life of me I'm not sure how I ended up with this long miter. My right and final miter is around 35" on the dot in terms of the length of the miter itself. So how can I amend this bad boy given this lip/overhang? I know it's probably something simple but would just like to pick your guys' brain. The difference between the two miter tips is probably 3/8". Maybe 1/2". If I keep the front corner, is it possible to just shift the cut point BACK say the 3/8" to the left to accomodate the gap? Or would that simply screw up the angle to a non-45?, I guess my question here is.....what should I use as a reference point to cut the new miter? Should I completely plane shift to the left by the 3/8" at both the front and back corner and cut a fresh 45? Bear with me here guys!
  5. Thanks guys, this is a behemoth of a bit and needs to be extra nuanced. I think for my longer piece I'm going to just rip 1/16-1/32" and just try again. Very light feather-routing. So I ordered my sink and I ran into an issue....I found the perfect sink on amazon for my corner cabinet, stainless steel and perfect dimensions etc., but it has a center hole cutout. Would this be a giant no-no for eating into the limited miter in the back corner? I could try to slightly offset it so that the hole falls on one side of the joint but that might look ridiculous? Or just biscuit and bolt as much as I can in front and behind the joint? Conversely, what I thought might be possible was to fill in the sink hole with a piece of stainless, and to drill a new/secondary sink hole on the side of the sink. What do you guys think?
  6. Sorry man, I mixed up the corners. - Seems with some finessing and support the corners are routing ok. - My concern is, however, that after a few passes I've got some wavy peaks and valleys in my routing surface. - Is this the result of a non-vertically steady router? I basically set up a piece of stiff ply underneath my cutting area, set about 1/16" of an inch back to just accommodate the width of the bearing and to eat into the cut. Should I have a top straight edge guide in addition to this to prevent wavy inconsistencies?
  7. Got it. - So the routing is going well, really getting the hang of it....but my question is on the outside corner, what's a good method to get a nice straight/pointy tip for that right angle? Go inward and establish a cutoff on the overhang side?
  8. Good Doctor, With this "sacrificial backer piece" do you just mean something clamped to the back of the tip of the miter at the inside corner? Something basically to give support behind what's being routed so as not to blow out that tip?
  9. Thanks yeah I'm pretty sure Wdwerker suggested something similiar, even tighter at say 1/8-1/16" right at the joint. For clamping I have some tite joint fasteners, in addition to biscuits and epoxy for alignment. Plan to use 2-3 titejoints in the back of the miter and some wood blocks screwed into the top of the counters where the sink hole will be for some clamps to grab a hold to right at the center of the miter. Tough thing though is that there aren't really any jigs or templates out there for the tite joint fasteners....there is one on amazon but it got god awful ratings. I have dimensions for my hole sizes, it's just nailing down the total distance/separation between the holes to accommodate the length of the bolt. - Going to run through it a few times on my own to get it down.
  10. Picked up a plunge/flat base combo. Wayyyyyyyy more like it. Does it make sense to give the miter face (that will be routed) a good sand too? Does that help or hinder here?
  11. Hey fellas! Quick update and question for you all. - I bought a pretty nice $30 flush trim bit (2" long) with a 1/2" thickness, but sadly my router and the router that was lent to me, both do not accommodate a 1/2" thick bit. The plan was to use this thicker, longer, 2" long bit (with a piece of wood clamped underneath the run for the bearing) in order to hit the entire overhang of the counter in one pass, and doing most of the work upfront. Right now I have a small 1/2" long, smaller thickness bit at my disposal, but given I have 1.5" of overhang to work with, is it stilly and a waste of time to use this 1/2" long flush trim bit in making 3-4 passes to cover the whole overhang? Or should I just find a router to accommodate this larger bit?
  12. Thanks dudes! How about the router bit? If I cut the miter a bit long and want to edge it in to perfection, while also getting the flat joint face, is it safe to use the flush trim router bit for both? 2" for 1.5" overhang?
  13. Annnnnnd actually lastly (haha I'm sure you are all beyond annoyed at these never ending posts!), for the tite joint fasteners (circular ring and post type), would it make sense to use a forstner bit or a paddle bit for the holes? Seems that a forstner bit would yield a better/cleaner result, but I do not have a drill press. Can this bit be used in a regular drill or even a router? I have a router and obviously a regular drill so that's what I'm left to work with.
  14. Lastly, for the 1.5" overhang, would it make sense to use a 2" flush trim router bit? I don't see any perfect half dimension bits out there so I assume this is the play? Is it safe to "edge in" a long cut with this bit as well? Or is the flush trim bit only to flatten the face and another bit should be used to cut a bit more?