riqmar

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About riqmar

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    chair making

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  1. For the easy cleaning of brushes, the trick I have been using for decades is: before commencing to paint, take a couple of minutes to let the brush soak in the appropriate solvent, which is likely water or paint thinner. By "soaking" I do not mean just a quick dip of the brush into the solvent; rather, put enough solvent in a container to allow soaking [for a few minutes] the bristles up to the heel. Since the first thing up into the bristles is either water or mineral spirits then the cleanup will be remarkably easier. The solvent used for soaking the brush can either be discarded [water] or reused [paint thinner] as it will still be clean........
  2. The idea of wiping the piece with solvent to "pull some of the finish out" is not going to help, IMO. What I believe has caused the upset to your nose is, in fact, not the finish, but rather the solvent in which the finish was dissolved in order to facilitate application. Have you checked lately to see if the piece still smells bad to you? Have you or the builder checked with the manufacturer of the finish for any helpful suggestions? Regarding the application of shellac: while shellac is a good sealer [with its own solvent], how would retarding the evaporation of the initial solvent serve any good purpose?
  3. Since the piece is sitting in your garage, you might consider aiming a fan at it, possibly with a door or window open.
  4. When faced with a similar situation, a workable solution was developed as follows: on the underside of the top drawer's bottom secure a small piece of 1/4 inch ply that corresponds to a small section of the crosspiece of the carcass above the top drawer. Then proceed to install the movable lever in the appropriate place in the bottom drawer. Trying then to remove the bottom drawer will not easily happen unless the top drawer is advanced; this will provide sufficient warning to forestall pulling the bottom drawer all the way out and spilling the contents...........I have done this well over a hundred times--There is at least one other solution, but I think this is the simplest. As an addendum: depending on the height of the back of the bottom drawer, you may well find that it will require a small notch to clear the piece of ply when the drawer is reinserted............
  5. In the event that you do not have enough [or any] of these, the same sort of clamping action may be accomplished with a wooden wedge or two.................Rick
  6. Rather than buy your material already surfaced [to 3/4 or 1 or 1 1/4 etc.] you might consider buying it "blanked" or "hit-or-miss". The extra 3/16" can make a big diff [4/4 material is 15/16" etc....] Regarding your actual table top: there is another way to achieve a thick edge, but it works only if you do not care about seeing a frame around the perimeter. For example, when you are roughing out the boards, each one in the central area of the top is cut a bit long, say 3 inches or so at each end. These offcuts [which you would do well to mark for later reference] will then get glued to what is to be the underside of the top before the individual boards are ripped to finished width and glu-able edges. If this makes sense to you then you will see that the problems of wood shrinkage are eliminated--in fact, gluing the table boards together is about as easy as standard, but with a thicker edge included. Since you are making a round top, you can do a pretty good job of slip matching the grain as you work your way around the top.............which is to say that the thickened edge will either not be noticed or, if it is, it will look purposeful.
  7. There is another way to solve your problem: it is often helpful to cut a kerf in the center of each edge of the panel. Said groove would be 1/2", or maybe 3/4", deep..............
  8. Agreed, especially the last sentence. The diagonal braces should be remade so as to form larger triangles. If there is then some lateral sway from the posts themselves flexing a bit I would hazard a guess that that would not be a problem........Additionally, some triangulation of the slide platform might be considered...........
  9. Why are you using hanger bolts with a threaded insert? They have a wood-appropriate thread and a metal nut-appropriate thread. Typically they are threaded into the wooden leg first and the half of the hanger bolt [that will pass through a pre-drilled corner block or metal bracket] is left protruding and then secured to the table's understructure with a nut of the appropriate size. I cannot see how a metal inserts fits into the program at all............
  10. How do you plan to cleanup the excess glue? Is your proposed finish sufficiently waterproof that squeeze-out can be wiped away with a damp sponge?
  11. There is a small dilemma here: a rabbet plane blade should be sharpened to a straight-line edge so as to facilitate crisp, square-cornered rabbets. But a block plane should be sharpened to a VERY slight arc or sharpened to a straight-line edge with the corners eased to minimize leaving tracks............
  12. If you have not already made the doors then you might consider making them taller than planned such that they cover the upper rail and are thus moved forward into what will likely be the same plane as the drawer front. Your choice of hinges will then be simplified, and I think that the cabinet design might well be improved.............
  13. The simplest fix I know is to drill a hole [directly under each screw] for a 3/4 inch dowel from either the face or back or back of the door about 7/8" from top edge to centerpoint. Glue in a 1 1/4 length of dowel which will then serve to provide side grain [not end grain and also not a split or seam] with which the screw can engage. If you do this and then use a 1 1/2" screw, I believe all will be secure.........
  14. You might try a sketch which shows horizontal grain on the drawers [as your description specifies]. That may help you decide. My vote would be for vertical grain on the doors. There is another way to do solid wood doors that is both contemporary and more stable: each door would be constructed with a horizontal rail [each about 1 3/4 wide] at top and bottom and with a couple of seven inch wide vertical pieces of wood between. When door is assembled a gap of 1/8 is left vertically in the center [so that expansion is accommodated] and then the rails are glued to the panels only at the outer 3 inches at either side [which allows for shrinkage as the centerline 1/8 gap can grow a bit. This type of door can be easily done with 1/8 splines, or biscuits, or a combination of both. The beauty of this design is that the outer dimensions of the door remains constant and the doors stay flat both of which are areas of concern with simple, solid-wood slab doors.