Eddie Wilson

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture
  1. Thanks you for the detailed answer Bmac. Explained everything perfectly.
  2. I purchased some air-dried lumber from a local lumber guy, walnut slabs. I noticed that the sapwood on the edge (1 or so inches thick) was dry rotted. I can break off a bit by hand, with some force. I planed a bit of the heartwood and it looks great. In contrast, I've purchased kiln dried lumber from another local guy, and the sapwood seems to be just as strong as the heartwood. I see people incorporating walnut sapwood into their projects with beautiful results. Should I be concerned about dry rotted sapwood? Is this the difference between air-dried and kiln-dried? How safe is it to incorporate walnut sapwood into your projects?
  3. Thanks for the input fellas, I figured it was normal, but wanted some experienced opinions.
  4. My first cutting boards (bear with me), 3 coats of Boos mineral oil (overnight between coats) and then two coats of Boos board cream (overnight between coats), and then waited a week before using. First use was a hot steak, 5-10 minutes off the grill (probably not the best “first run” idea, but I was excited, and hey... it’s steak) and noticed this fading once I wiped it down with warm water. I assume it’s just that top new layer of wax coming off. Is this expected/normal? Or did I do something wrong? A water test doesn’t show any absorption, most just concerned cuz I plan on making a bunch for Christmas gifts so want to make sure I did it right, and I can say “ya, the fading is normal, just rub some board cream on it” when family and friends have similar experiences.
  5. On further investigation, I’m less worried about my light mineral spirits wipe down. Looking at General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish they actually recommend thinning it with mineral spirits.
  6. @K Cooper full disclosure, I got some light burn marks in the corners but they were easily sanded. I kept moving during routing, only stopping in the corners, hence the burn marks. If I did it again I would make a quick template from 3/4” plywood strips around the cutting board. I’d have to brace it against the board so it was perfectly centered inside the guide. Probably about the same time spent setting up and triple checking the fence stops and way cleaner since it would be a continuous route all around.
  7. Router table with core box bits. 1/2” for juice groove and 3/4” for the inset handles. I used stops on the router fence to line things up. This works great for the handles but in the future I think I’ll use a template and a hand-held router for the juice groves so it can be one continuous route all around.
  8. Sounds good, and thanks. My first full project from rough lumber.
  9. New to the sport, so forgive me, but just made a few cutting boards. I used a wipe down of mineral spirits to remove all the dust and started to worry if this was a bad idea. Will an overnight evaporation clear all my concerns? Can’t find a definitive answer on the internet. I plan on finishing the boards with Howard’s board oil and conditioner.