Lucas Purpleheart

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About Lucas Purpleheart

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    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 08/28/1992

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  • Woodworking Interests
    wood turning and box making

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  1. Can you make a screw pocket on the side of a 2x4? Or is it recommended to only do it on the wide side Also, I just made the calculations for how much lumber I will need, since I am doing S4S I should probably buy from Menards or Home Depot?
  2. They are ceramic pieces I make myself, too! Pottery is another of my hobbies.
  3. Revision 2: all the changes mostly side note: can you use a pocket jig like this on 2x4s?
  4. I have never done dadoes so I am worried I am going to screw it up. This makes a lot of sense. What would be the easiest way to make pocket screws? A jig? This seems like a better idea than mine of using 2x4's and 1x4x48 planks. I won't be able to joint and plane, only sand with an orbital. Yes I have a drill (plus kit with bits) and screwdriver. What do you mean about notches? Yes, I have about 7 clamps or so. That is a good trick as well.
  5. This was my 2nd box I've made. Butt joints on oak and purpleheart. Sanded each to 220. Matte water poly on sides and gloss on PH.
  6. And for that reason I don't think I could properly utilize mine to make the rabbets I want for this desk or boxes. In any case, I have revised my plans. The left is the new, the right is the original. Now I am just trying to decide where to drill. Though, without the extra 2x4 supports, 4x4 solo instead of 2x4 in the revised plan might still be a viable option? I don't have a jointer or planer to smoothen them out.
  7. This sounds simple enough, I'd probably get a forstner bit; however, glue won't be enough to hold the shelves in place? How much weight would that support? As for the depth stop, I am unsure about my model if it is wise: I would love make rabbets for sliding lids on my boxes but I am unsure if my miter saw can handle it. Also, how would you go about the leg situation? 4x4s as intended or make them 2x4?
  8. I do like the apperance of 4x4 but it seems like its going to be a hassle. I dont have any way to cut the length of the board so I am trying to do only crosscuts with my miter saw. I want to make this out of logs/posts and planks. I still am unsure of where I will be able to screw.
  9. So cover up most of the back with a 1/4" board - got it. What should I replace the 4x4 legs with?
  10. Should I add more bars perpendicular to that post for more stability? Or what exactly should be done?
  11. What joints would work best for this? What size should I make the vertical supports? 3x3? 2x2? That is why I add a horizontal cross-bar along the back, will this not be enough?
  12. I am planning on making this corner desk to have against my computer desk. All I have to build it are a handsaw, miter saw and that's really it. I plan to just cut things down to size. Do these plans seem sound? I am unsure about the screw/nail/glue situation. Also, for the top shelves, can I get by with 2x4 and 2x2 for the corner to allow for more shelf room? REVISION 2:
  13. Alright so, I sanded this with an orbital sander. 80 > 150 > 220 as those are all the discs I have. When I got up to 220 I did three coats of shellac with 220 sandings in between. This is what happened, should I have used pore filler? Is this dirt and grime getting in the pores? I am planning on using the satin poly in a day or two to finish over it. Also, for my PH, someone said to use shellac to allow for better adhesion, but I don't want to darken or give the color an amber tone, despite it saying clear. Should I just sand to 220 and apply three coats of satin poly and be done with it? With the finishing products I have, what would be the best way to finish this?
  14. So it'd be something like: Sand to 80 > Take off dust with tach cloth and compressed air can > Sand to 150 > dust > Sand to 220 > dust > apply 1st coat of satin poly > wait for drying time > Sand 320 > dust > apply 2nd coat of poly > wait > Sand 320 again > apply 3rd coat of poly. Then, apply more coats as necessary? And I was told not to use the shellac on the PH as it will just darken it even though it's clear coat it does yellow the wood a little. I was worried Gloss would love plastic-y so i got satin poly.
  15. So what would be the best combo of finishes for the woods I have from the material I have? For the Oak: shellac + poly + dye? and for the PH: poly only. And you say to finish only after around 180/220? What grit would I be sanding inbetween coats?