Lucas Purpleheart

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Everything posted by Lucas Purpleheart

  1. Can you make a screw pocket on the side of a 2x4? Or is it recommended to only do it on the wide side Also, I just made the calculations for how much lumber I will need, since I am doing S4S I should probably buy from Menards or Home Depot?
  2. They are ceramic pieces I make myself, too! Pottery is another of my hobbies.
  3. Revision 2: all the changes mostly side note: can you use a pocket jig like this on 2x4s?
  4. I have never done dadoes so I am worried I am going to screw it up. This makes a lot of sense. What would be the easiest way to make pocket screws? A jig? This seems like a better idea than mine of using 2x4's and 1x4x48 planks. I won't be able to joint and plane, only sand with an orbital. Yes I have a drill (plus kit with bits) and screwdriver. What do you mean about notches? Yes, I have about 7 clamps or so. That is a good trick as well.
  5. This was my 2nd box I've made. Butt joints on oak and purpleheart. Sanded each to 220. Matte water poly on sides and gloss on PH.
  6. And for that reason I don't think I could properly utilize mine to make the rabbets I want for this desk or boxes. In any case, I have revised my plans. The left is the new, the right is the original. Now I am just trying to decide where to drill. Though, without the extra 2x4 supports, 4x4 solo instead of 2x4 in the revised plan might still be a viable option? I don't have a jointer or planer to smoothen them out.
  7. This sounds simple enough, I'd probably get a forstner bit; however, glue won't be enough to hold the shelves in place? How much weight would that support? As for the depth stop, I am unsure about my model if it is wise: I would love make rabbets for sliding lids on my boxes but I am unsure if my miter saw can handle it. Also, how would you go about the leg situation? 4x4s as intended or make them 2x4?
  8. I do like the apperance of 4x4 but it seems like its going to be a hassle. I dont have any way to cut the length of the board so I am trying to do only crosscuts with my miter saw. I want to make this out of logs/posts and planks. I still am unsure of where I will be able to screw.
  9. So cover up most of the back with a 1/4" board - got it. What should I replace the 4x4 legs with?
  10. Should I add more bars perpendicular to that post for more stability? Or what exactly should be done?
  11. What joints would work best for this? What size should I make the vertical supports? 3x3? 2x2? That is why I add a horizontal cross-bar along the back, will this not be enough?
  12. I am planning on making this corner desk to have against my computer desk. All I have to build it are a handsaw, miter saw and that's really it. I plan to just cut things down to size. Do these plans seem sound? I am unsure about the screw/nail/glue situation. Also, for the top shelves, can I get by with 2x4 and 2x2 for the corner to allow for more shelf room? REVISION 2:
  13. Alright so, I sanded this with an orbital sander. 80 > 150 > 220 as those are all the discs I have. When I got up to 220 I did three coats of shellac with 220 sandings in between. This is what happened, should I have used pore filler? Is this dirt and grime getting in the pores? I am planning on using the satin poly in a day or two to finish over it. Also, for my PH, someone said to use shellac to allow for better adhesion, but I don't want to darken or give the color an amber tone, despite it saying clear. Should I just sand to 220 and apply three coats of satin poly and be done with it? With the finishing products I have, what would be the best way to finish this?
  14. So it'd be something like: Sand to 80 > Take off dust with tach cloth and compressed air can > Sand to 150 > dust > Sand to 220 > dust > apply 1st coat of satin poly > wait for drying time > Sand 320 > dust > apply 2nd coat of poly > wait > Sand 320 again > apply 3rd coat of poly. Then, apply more coats as necessary? And I was told not to use the shellac on the PH as it will just darken it even though it's clear coat it does yellow the wood a little. I was worried Gloss would love plastic-y so i got satin poly.
  15. So what would be the best combo of finishes for the woods I have from the material I have? For the Oak: shellac + poly + dye? and for the PH: poly only. And you say to finish only after around 180/220? What grit would I be sanding inbetween coats?
  16. Interesting, thank you all for the replies. I went out to Home Depot and picked up two varathane finishes: satin and a dark stain for oak plus the spirits, which I apparently don't need. I have not nor have I ever used spirits. Gotcha, water over spirits. Haha, I get that. I was unsure about the oak so I grabbed a dark stain to apply before using the gloss or satin. It wasn't. So I sand to 220 without coating and only start coating at 220? Sorry I am just confused a little about when you apply coats, when to finish and how many grits. I know I should probably do something like 80 > 150 > 220 for both parts (the PH and oak) but unsure when to apply which finish I have. And are mineral spirits oil-based, so it'll make my PHJ darker? And do you mean unless youre using an oil-based finish? There's no water in oil-based finish to raise the grain which is why you use spirits or water to do it for you?
  17. Why is it good I am not staining? And so glossy will give a fake look where as satin and matte are more natural? Got it. Yes the lid is separate from the body right now. Just trying to figure out the sanding/finishing process. For the PH lid it'd be: rub with mineral spirit to pre-raise grain, Sand to 80, tack cloth, layer of gloss finish, wait drying time then redo the whole process again for more layers? For the oak lid, someone said the shellac would be pointless and just to do gloss, so same process minus the mineral spirits pre-raise?
  18. So how high should I sand to on both wood species? I am not staining, here are my topcoats: So should I wipe the dust off in between each coat with a tack rag? And with the gloss, should I use a rag soaked in mineral spirits? Also, are you suggesting putting the shellac on the purpleheart? Because the employee at Woodcrafters warned me against doing so, claiming it would warm the color too much and darken it - I believe. So they suggested a water-based finish like the Gloss. So it'd be: Sand > dust > finish > wait and repeat at least twice more?
  19. So I recently got a miter saw, would the depth stop allow me to do this? It's a sliding compound miter saw by Chicago Electric from Harbor Freight.
  20. @Ronn W@Jonathan McCully@wdwerker@wtnhighlander@lewisc Hello, everyone! Thank you for the response, I really appreciate it. I decided to go with a back miter saw and some clamps since I really don't have a workbench even yet. I cut an oak plan into sections and made a box with butt joints. I used shellac clear spray to finish it since I wasn't sure what stain would look good on it. The image I have attached is the 2nd box I made and I want to make a purpleheart lid for it. I was thinking about making a door that opens outward like a castle or church door. Is this viable? I have High Performance Gloss to use on the purpleheart since I want to retain it's vibrant color, but one side is still a little brown so I have been trying to leave it in the sun to purple. Also, the sticker on one side made for a really dark imprint, so I am unsure of how to fix that. The store employee told me to sand only up to 150 with my hand, instead of my orbital sander. Is this right? I am a little unsure of the process of sanding and finishing. Like I said, the woods are oak and purple and the finishes I have are Shellac clear spray and High Performance Gloss. Do I just sand the purpleheart to 150, use a wet?/dry? rag to brush of sawdust, then use my foam brush to apply 3 coats with a grace period of a couple hours in between? And for the oak, do I sand (with the grain) to 80, use rag to brush off sawdust, apply shellac, wait 20-30 minutes, sand to 150, rag, and apply shellac one last time? I think she said for the purpleheart, I can go as high as I want since I wasn't actually staining, or maybe it was the oak. Sorry I am unsure. How high should I sand these pieces and in what order should I apply the gloss/clear shellac pertaining to the process? Thank you all for your input. I plan to hopefully get a tablesaw that allows me do rabbets in the future since that seems like the most versatile tool I can have. A Circulaw saw would not let me get the strait cuts I want, without a guide, because I don't have a workbench really to work on so having a tablesaw would be a little easier. I think.
  21. Hello, everyone! I am an avid wood enthusiast and still very new to to woodworking. I wanted to make a sliding lid box but fear my inexperience will force me to start with a hinged lid box. So here goes: I want to make simple 3.5 in x 3.5 in x 6 (or 4x4x6) inch boxes to place some pottery I make in. I was thinking of practicing with cheap wood like pine or even plywood and veneer, but the endgoal is to make these from exotic wood from Purpleheart or Rosewood for really special pieces. Here is an elongated example: [Example 1] but more this size Picture and ultimately, I really want to do something like this, i want all examples, for my boxes to have sliding lids but this example has an acrylic lid with the logo etched on Example 3 I know it is a lot but presentation is a big factor for me. In the end, however, I think since I can't make sliding boxes without a tablesaw easily, I will just go with a hinged lid for now. When joining the sides together, are nails necessary if the glue is strong enough? I would rather not have nails show. Also, where is the best location online to buy metal hinges? I currently only have a Ryobi cordless drill and kit that has different bits. I have been looking at getting a miter saw, router, jigsaw or circular handsaw but I don't know where to begin. I don't have much space but I feel I could find some if I was really dedicated. I think a tablesaw would be the most versatile thing I could get right now, there's a Ryobi one at Home Depot I could get for cheap and would allow me to cut the the blanks to piece instead of getting them cut at Wood Crafter. Would this tablesaw allow me to make rabbets for a sliding lid box? Is there any place online that sells exotic woods at 1/4" x 3.5 or 4 x length? I can't go any higher because I don't think I could cut a 1/2" slab in half myself with the tablesaw. I think I will have to use a regular handsaw since I really don't have garage or outdoor space to setup right now. Oh, lastly, I heard heat-treating purpleheart is a good way to bring out color, is this true? Can I do this with a torch? Also, what stain would be best on plywood or a good way to color it or non exotic woods purple? I appreciate any and all feedback - thank you.