walidantar

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Everything posted by walidantar

  1. honing in blade-reversed is a lot easier .. now the blade has three bevels lol
  2. yes, because i couldn't find in my area any honing guide even a cheap one or the Stanley model .. i had to hone it by hand but didn't master it .. this blade bevel is very short and it's hard to reference it freely by hand .. i needed something temporary till i can buy from the net something very good .. i think with the c-clamp because of the screw is somehow is similar and found it works but hard to square up the blade but still helps as something momentary
  3. i've made a simple honing guide out of a cheap 3" c-clamp & a scrap wood to raise up the clamp a little .. it's not practical for changing a bevel angle but honing a blade to it's current bevel - it still missing a double sided tape to temporary fix the wood to the clamp
  4. despite cost and money, if you can afford a premium - like veritas or any other - low-angle jack plane + skew rabbet plane or any dedicated plane for rabbeting, infront a jack rabbet plane what would you prefer to buy for your use
  5. thanks wtnhighlander, my native language is arabic which some words expretions we can say to stangers normally without taking in account any misunderstanding .. so when i translated it to english it msybe meant something else
  6. now i understood what do mean when say the word paring .. thanks you wtnhighlander i thought before paring is just small grooves where a plane can't go in
  7. i've seen many says 3/8" & 1/2" for dovetails, just want to clarify about this, i looks they mean for the dovetail sockets that are 3/8" & 1/2" wide, my question when working with dovetails - should the chisels par the socket with one pas or doesn't matter for the joint if a narrower chisel is used .. and where can i learn more about designing or layout the sizes and pattern of dovetails, i still can't know much about the widths of the pins and the sockets and about the spacing
  8. what can you par with wide chisels?
  9. meaning is like sir, it's not my language so often i get in words that gets misunderstood
  10. thanks you so much, but need to ask, for a 3/4" dado is it necessary for a 3/4" chisel?
  11. about chisels, if i have 1/4" 1/2" & 1", are 3/8" & 3/4" needed? and for what 2" is used - is it worth it to get it a premium one or it's rarely used .. and with respect to dado's or grooves, what is the most common width in cabinet joinery
  12. @Tpt life @drzaius thanks you this point is now clarified to me, instead of another block plane, a smother /small plane/ would be a better option for smaller stock
  13. the thing i was really wondering about is the chance of leaving tracks , i looks like as each pass it with totally dip down the wood as a dado
  14. if i have a rabbeting block plane would i need normal block plane?
  15. you're right, most of them are not going to be used
  16. added dog-holes on the top & t-tracks .. yet still the dog-holes on the side for the sliding tail vise a little question .. if the holes on the side are not shifted with respect to those on the top and so they intersect inside the apron .. knowing that either the top or the side will be used at a time .. does the hole intersection matters?
  17. with respect to the long narrow mortise i think /if i'm not wrong it can be done with chisels having no handles like those 'all steel carpenter's chisels' from leevalley .. it will be very challenging .. paring chisels even don't reach 12" of depth
  18. i've got it, with using two steel square tubing for each extension, grab the extension from it's apron to the apron of the bench top with 6 (1/2" by 6") long bolts .. so it stays simplified .. see the small two circles as the bolts it shows where the bolts should be
  19. in this case, is it possible to make a 1"by1"by12"-deep mortise for the square steel tubing? i wonder how it's done
  20. i'm still thinking of it, lol .. no solution yet maybe two 2ft steel square tubing connects 'goes in' each extention and the table top and some bolts under the top - maybe or just glue the extentions, the benifit is not to deal with long lumbers, the bench then is virtually divided into smaller sections
  21. 48"by30" with two extentios at the siides - extends the bench by 18" at each side .. 18" is suitable for a lot of vises like veritas sliding tale and face .. height is 32.5 .. legs are 3" thick as the bench-top and leg top and bottom faces are flush with the bench front and rear edges legs base and top are 6"by30"by3" and leg-column mortises are 3"by6" are 2"-deep and are 2" offset at the face edges of the leg-base to attach a support for clamping at the side-edge of the tail-vise bench-top apron are 3"by3" actual-size
  22. 8" Dia-Sharp Continuous Diamond Bench Stone, will to get just only one that is mostly used, that i prepare the blades with sand paper as it's not too often and is almost one-time to flatten and not to much to restore a broken edge, and after sharpening use the strop to refine the edge after some use, so the diamond stone is also not much being used and it doesn't need flattening as water/oil stones .. for that i got confused what grit is better, i'm not a very high grit enthusiast .. but prefer stropping as it saves/prolongs the pricey diamond stone - for that i asked if it's possible to strop after 600 grit to avoid sharpening at 600 then 1200 grit so i get only one stone instead of to but it seems it doesn't work like this