Gary Beasley

Thats pretty much the same thing, though you need to check theres not too much oily residue from it. Not too sure of the purity of that product.

North Carolina is a nice place, you’re going to love it, especially after living in California. What part of NC you headed for?

Several years ago we were visiting a lavender farm and encountered a gentleman selling plants. We got several lilies and irises and planted them. The lilies sprouted and bloomed quickly but the irises were much slower. This spring the sprouted bud stems and a couple of days ago I walked out to find blooms open.

I think it was supposed to burn cleaner, make less smog than non ethanol. Thing is, if you burn more fuel due to lower mileage seems it would be a wash.

First thing I would do is spray some penetrating oil on all the linkages. After sitting so long it may have rusted tight.

It helps. You didnt have it bagged? Definitely a death sentence for red oak. Something you might want to try is drop the piece in a bucket of water for a while and see if the cracks close. If they do blow out the water and wick some glue into it and see if it holds when you dry it in a bag.

Thats red oak, right? That stuff is bad about that and needs to be turned pretty thin from the get go to not crack.

That leg looks basically like flatwork. Find a suitable cherry plank and trace the outline, cut it out and rout the contours. Hard part would be drilling matching dowel holes. I think what weakened it was too many holes too close together, not a great design.

One nice aspect to the clear fill is the curved surface when polished will magnify the inside a bit and make the surface look level. A cool thing if the hole is deep or undercut you can actually peer into the hole sideways and see around its corners. Ive dealt with that on pens and it does make it look interesting.

The vaporised oils and grease from the cooking dont do you any good as well as the CO2 buildup. Anyhow theres always trace pollutants in gas that burn and make noxious traces. Thing is most of its in gaseous form and not particulate.

Probably because gas burns leaving CO2 and water. The blue flame shows its burning at its best.

You will likely need to make a last pass or two with a gouge or negative rake scraper after filling to get the profile smooth. Though often when I found these packed worm trails I would straight away soak them with thin CA to bind the stuff together and it would look pretty good. Then the finishing was a good bit easier.

The left slot may have some rough edges to it. I noticed that on my old Delta cabinet saw. I took a file and ran the flat face against the sides of the slot several times and smoothed out the travel of my miter from end to end.

You do need a bowl gouge if you are intent on doing bowls though some people get by with scrapers. Learning on a slicing tool like a gouge will make any operation easier to deal with. This biggest factor in bowl turning is in grain direction. Spindle turning the grain is for the most part parallel to the lathe bed and you are cutting on the outside. Side grain bowls, the most common form done, has the grain perpendicular to the bed and the grain is swapping from end to side grain twice a revolution. Spindle and roughing gouges are not built beefy enough to handle this even if they were sharpened with a suitable profile to cut the end grain part. My favorite gouge is a half inch Sorby with a 40/40 grind on it that will handle everything except hollowing end grain and deep forms. Once you have a decent tool sharpened with good grind angles its going to be much easier to learn to turn. Trying to use the wrong tools will just create bad habits you will have to unlearn as you progress.

I finally picked up this piece of end grain pecan that had been lounging on a table next to the bandsaw and decide it was time for it to shine. One thing about end grain turnings is you have to cut in the opposite direction you would if turning a side grain piece. You also dont get long shavings off the wood, just crumbles. After the final shaping with the negative rake scraper I sanded from 100 grit all the way up to 2000 grit. Then I wiped on a good layer of Watco Teak Oil. Really brings the chatoyance out in the grain.