JasonS

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About JasonS

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 12/14/1975

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kingwood, NJ
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hand tools; hybrid woodworking; shaker, caftsman, arts & crafts, Shinto styles; furniture making

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  1. My gripe with these kits is that they always include hammer drills. I have a great corded Milwaukee hammer drill for the few times I need it. I find the hammer function just adds weight and cost to the drill/driver for a function I'm not likely to ever use. If they'd just offer these kits with plain old drill/drivers I'd be quire pleased.
  2. This is all pretty much what I expected: Can't go wrong with any of the 3 I'm considering. In a way that help,s in another it's no help. I think I need to go get my hands on more of the tools and see how they feel for weight and ergonomics. Then it's look for the best deals I guess. Thanks all! Greatly appreciated.
  3. This is all about what I expected. They all get good reviews, they all have massive product lines, they all have good battery life. I have a US made top handle Porter-Cable jigsaw I bought in '99 or '00 and it's still going strong. Trouble is, and this is tough to believe, it's too powerful - it motors through everything so easily it's tough to control. I've never been great with top handle jig saws though - I find them all difficult to use. Barrel grips though, those are great. My PC also has a poorly designed blower that can't compete with the force created by the blade and sends the dust up at your face. That's why I'm asking now!
  4. My 1st generation Festool cordless drill batteries are finally at the point where they don't hold much of a charge anymore. I got this drill a few weeks after they were released so I've had it for almost 9 years. That's a pretty good run I think. I've looked at getting new batteries for about $120 a pair which is not bad, but then I thought I should consider other cordless tool brands with a wider set of options. I don't mind my corded tools at all, but I have to admit the cords are a real PITA at times in the shop and especially the odd time I need to work where an extension cord isn't possible. I have several Milwaukee M12 tools and I really like them so I'm considering their M18 line which is very nice, but it's on the high end of the price scale these days (though nowhere the level of Festool). Then there's DeWalt which can be found everywhere. I'm also considering Makita. I had one of their 12v drill drivers for years, bought many batteries, and eventually replaced it with the Festool. The tools I'm most likely to want are: Drill/driver Planer Router w/plunge base Planer Barrel grip jigsaw Blower Maybe an impact driver, grinder, nailers, etc but I don't know for now. So what are peoples' thoughts on the Milwaukee, DeWalt and Makita 18-20v cordless systems? It looks like all three lines offer the tools I'm most likely to want. I'm just not sure of the longevity anymore since I've been good with what I've had.
  5. I know. What irks me is that the techs don;t know what they're selling. When I was doing tech support for Northern Tool (lo these many years ago) I knew what I was sending people. If a customer had a question and I wasn't sure of the answer I found out. I may keep the spares, I may insist on a call tag. These aren't cheap and no supplier I've communicated with so far has an equivalent cap. By the way, where abouts in MN are you? I grew up in St Louis Park and lived in Cities until I moved east.
  6. And after confirming with the tech that the capacitors are sold individually what arrives? 2 sets of 2 capacitors. I guess I'll be calling Felder on Monday.
  7. I'm finally getting back to trying to mount the extension wing to my sliding table. I feel like a moron because I just can not get it mounted level. The instructions aren't bad, but they aren't great. I just can't wrap my brain around how I'm supposed to mount, level and secure the table. Can anyone with this saw chime in and help me out?
  8. Mine is a 2010 so it's not much younger. We'll see what happens.
  9. Well, I ordered the capacitors from Felder. The tech insists they're sold separately so we'll see what shows up. If I get 2 pairs I'll be on the phone with Felder about it.
  10. Huh. I've never seen that before (not that I'm a motor guru, but I've replaced a few capacitors before). Once the tech gets back to me this afternoon I'll ask him about that and get them ordered. Thanks for all the input.
  11. Are they identical? Mine are and I thought start capacitors had a higher capacitance than run capacitors.
  12. TLDR: I need 2 capacitors for my jointer/planer but they're $49 each from Felder. Where do I even start looking for capacitors this size? So I finally had the chance to tear into the Hammer A3-31 jointer/planer I bought almost 2 years ago. It was in a friends garage until May when we moved into the new house. It wasn't running when I got it, but my friend found a loose wire, reconnected it and it started right up. BUT, it only ran intermittently. He never could figure out why. I got it to start as long as I held the power button; after that it'd shut down. It was also making an awful squealing sound. I'm thinking bearings of course. So I put in a service call to Felder and talked to a tech this morning. Of course it started up and stayed running. He gave me some ideas and a couple schematics so I got to it. I got the planer drive wheel off and took a look inside but had to clean it out first. Then I noticed the capacitors were just sort of sitting there, loose. I think the tech at the school I bought it from was just done with trying to get it to run (he told me his boss just wanted it gone) and forgot to settle everything back - or didn't bother. Long story short, the loose capacitors were rubbing against the drive belt making an awful squealing sound. The belt was cutting into the capacitor body and had already worn through the wire jacketing and into the copper of one of the capacitor wires and was almost through the second. Felder has the capacitors but they're $49 each and I need both. That seems a tad steep. Even the tech recommended I try elsewhere first. I have no idea how to read the info on the capacitors and I have no idea where to start looking for them anyway. Any suggestions are much appreciated.
  13. That flat metal back is the key. It has 4 prongs that go back and hook down. There are 2 advantages to that: 1) there's no need to tilt the hook when rearranging so you don't have to take everything down, and 2) those 4 prongs lock the hook in place so it takes effort to knock them loose. I've looked at a number of retail fixture suppliers for a while now, and I've never seen them in another store. My google-fu isn't great to begin with and such an obscure item is tough to describe in a search. I would certainly contact my old boss but it looks like my first one just retired (that was shocker - I thought Randy would be at the Burnsville store forever) and our regional manager seems to be retired as well. I'm not sure who's left of my contacts at corporate (it would feel weird to call and ask) and the rest of my store contacts and staff have either retired or have moved on. I had to leave the company about 8 years ago so that's kind of to be expected though. And that photo? That's the Minnetonka store. That's the store I was managing when I left the company. I started at Burnsville as the assistant manager, got transfered to Minnetonka for 2 weeks as the assistant, transfered to Minneapolis as acting manager for 6 months, then transfered back to Minnetonka as the manager. That was the job I liked the most of all that I've had. I kind of miss it sometimes. I really liked the people I worked with though, both in the store and at corporate (given how close I was to HQ I was there frequently - I even picked up larger orders there for customers while they went and had lunch). I even liked the company as an entity, honestly; they asked a lot of us but they treated us well in return. Sorry for that left turn to nostalgia. The photo just brought up memories and it's interesting to see how it's changed. The closest woodworking store to me now is the Allentown Woodcraft and it's...somewhat lacking.
  14. Does anyone know where to get the pegboard hooks Rocker uses in their retail stores? I used to work for Rockler and they're the best hooks I've ever used, but I don't remember the manufacturer name and I can't even find an image of them on the net. I'm several hundred miles from the nearest Rockler store and a phone call to one got me the answer that they come from Rockler's warehouse (which they do, but doesn't help me). Anyone have any ideas?
  15. Yeah, I keep hearing that the rolling carriage isn't great for frequent moving. I think I'm going to go with more typical mobile base. Thanks for the feedback.