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About oldman_woodworker

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    Tinonee, NSW Australia
  • Woodworking Interests
    wooden toys, learning, reclaiming timber, joinery, table saw, scroll saw,

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  1. Saturday afternoon here gee-dub that is some beautiful work there making your own setup, I would need a well setup saw to make that as you have It's a bit of a catch 22 isn't it, need a well setup saw to make a jig to set my saw up
  2. Appreciate all the input. I should mention that 4 months ago I lost my job but have found work as an interstate truck driver which has me leaving home on Sunday afternoons and returning on Friday evenings which doesn't leave a lot of time to pursue my hobbies. I will re-read all these posts and comments when I can but wanted everyone to know that I appreciate all responses and explain why it may take a week or so for me to get around to it. Thanks for the detailed response and photos gee-dub Regards Geoff
  3. OK, blade alignment was good ( tested with combination square) Fence alignment was out ( the rear of the fence was closer to the blade than the front) by approx 1.5 mm gee-dub thats a neat setup, can you explain how to setup for the other plane ? I don't really get the meaning or understanding
  4. Hi Mick Thanks, that was an interesting video. Do you know anything of this from fine wood working about aligning the tablesaw in 2 planes ? I'm going to go out to the shed now and check the blade and fence alignment first before I worry too much about aligning the 2nd plane Thanks again for your help
  5. Thinking about shelling out some cash for the Digi Align jig and would like opinions on this and as to whether its a waste of money etc for example, am I better off making my own, using readily available tools or can this tool be beneficial Im starting to find that (particularly making french cleats) that the timber is burning towards the last part of the cut and also seems to start binding slightly at the last part of the cut making me think things are not aligned as they should be Regards Geoff
  6. OK, after a quick search I have checked downhill routing and climb cutting, I have quite a bit of learning to do. I will be away for a couple of days so I will read and ask some more when I return. Thanks again to all that help
  7. Thanks drz I will look up climb cut, I believe my main problem is technique / inexperience Gee-Dub thank you I didn't even know there was bits like this, I don't understand 'routing downhill'
  8. Thanks Gary I just had another crack at it and it bit again but I think I fed the stock in the wrong direction, I may have been mistaken about what way I was feeding it Thanks wtn I didn't think of flipping the piece over, sometimes I don't see the forest for the trees The sander option would definitely be a good idea though ! ( those bloody trees again) Thanks ts Yes, it is a trim router, I think I will stay away from routing end grain all together, as wtn pointed out that curve would be easily done on the sander. I appreciate everyones help
  9. Greetings I am trying to make some simple wooden toys and am having trouble routing 3/4inch pine, I am using a pattern making bit and have an MDF template attached to the stock but 3 times now the router has bit into the timber, once breaking the stock in 2 and just now has torn a chunk out of the stock making me jump and causing me to be uncomfortable and it is seemingly dangerous, having already thrown a piece of broken timber across the shed I have used pattern making bits before without trouble like this but Im failing to see what Im doing wrong, I'm thinking perhaps its the end grain that is causing me grief but I'm not completely sure. Across the 'hood' area I can achieve a finish as would be expected. I run the stock in the opposite direction to cutter rotation and have the speed set on 5 (6 being the highest) I have attached photos of the job and also my setup Appreciate any help Geoff
  10. Thnaks again gee-dub, I appreciate the information
  11. thanks John it's all good gee, I figured I was probably the only one who didn't know thanks again, I checked with a local supplier today and they can get BB plywood but it's crazy expensive. Do you think this stuff is ok for making jigs or should I go the MDF route ? good points drz, thanks for the input
  12. I would like help selecting plywood as well as the OP I see that BB plywood referred to and recommended but I don't see it offered in either of the 2 stores we have in town Could someone check this link please and let me know if this would be an equivalent to the BB, I want to make jigs for my tools, there are 2 thicknesses 15mm (.67 inch) or 12mm (.47 inch) https://www.bunnings.com.au/ecoply-2400-x-1200-x-15mm-cd-structural-plywood_p0340165 thanks in advance Geoff
  13. thanks Tpt, my hand tools don't include any planes yet, I did use an electric plane many years ago trying to make a door fit an opening and nearly turned the door into a window. Using a plane is something the craftsmen make look easy but when the average joe tries it's a very different story
  14. I just watched an interesting ( to me ) tutorial video about cutting mitres to suit an odd shaped angle and how the maths could be incorrect if you split the angle in two for the angle cut measurement instead of taking the angle and subtracting it from 90, another good point to illustrate your advice on subtracting from 90 thanks again