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Everything posted by oldman_woodworker

  1. I plan on getting a dedicated disc sander so I will go with the spindle only option Thanks Thanks Mark Sounds nasty We don't get real cold here in winter, sometimes down to 0c (32f) overnight to 14c (57f) during the day but I'll take that into consideration thanks
  2. Thanks wtn that's interesting about the spindles not staying tight as the spindle part is the main reason I wanted one. I only do small hobby work, kids toys, bandsaw boxes etc and the spindle sanding would be helpful, I just wasn't sure about needing the belt option. I will have to have a rethink about the whole deal
  3. Looking to buy a spindle sander and I'm not sure what way to jump. I think the added benefit of the belt sander combo could be handy but looking at the machine it seems that the belt sander part does not have a lot of surface area to work with. Spindle sander option only comes with a cast iron top and the combo unit only comes with plastic. Wondering if the spindle sander only and the addition of a seperate disc sander might be a better way to go ? Anyone with experience with either / or ? Recommendations and opinions welcome Thanks
  4. I did my best to adjust the blade to his instructions, that being said I have increased the tension but cuts are still a bit rough It a Toolmac brand, just a generic Taiwanese saw rebranded to many other brands I imagine Doing my best John, only new to the game so I'm probably not the most consistent No Tom, it's brand new Retensioning and also using the blade for a little while over the holiday break has improved the cuts a little Just swapped over to the other new blade I bought and the cut is a lot better, it is a 3/16 6 TPI blade
  5. I should have added that I also have a 3/16" blade for the curves of the boxes, I figured on using the 1/2" for mainly cutting the straights. I did my best to set the saw up with the blade positioned on the wheel as you said ( I followed the Alex Snodgrass setup video). I'll play around with the setup and feed rates and see what i can figure out. Thanks for the info, at least now I know that it should be better . I'll be back at it in a couple of days and I'll update this post Thanks again
  6. I just installed a new bandsaw blade and after some test cuts I see I'm getting a corrugated finish to my cuts. The blade is cutting effortlessly through anything I have tried and I'm happy with it in that aspect. In the photo I have tried to show the 'corrugations' I am getting after some test cutting with 1 1/2" hardwood. The photo is taken looking down on the cut The blade is a 1/2" with 3 TPI. Would this be normal with a blade like this ? Perhaps a higher TPI would give a cleaner cut. I was wanting to have a crack at making some bandsaw boxes, I reckon a smoother cut would be better for those Geoff
  7. These look awesome ! Now........if I can find a seller in Au
  8. I have an older bandsaw ( Toolmac ) that needs the tyres replacing. have found a couple of places here ( in AU ) that supply the Carter urethane tyres listed only by wheel diameter. I have found an American site on Ebay called the Bandsaw Tire Warehouse with an extensive range listed by make and model of saw. Is it necessary to buy tyres by make and model or is it fine to buy according to wheel diameter Thanks Geoff
  9. Thanks for the info, I rarely cut large pieces, I mainly only fiddle around, at the moment I have a Sherwood TS ( promoted quite a lot here in AU by a larger woodworking company which has been good for the years I've had it but lately the height mechanism has been binding and giving me the tom titts so I figure I might buy myself and very good saw that will be my last and be done with it, I just tell the better half I'm getting a free miter gauge that will cost just under 4 grand.......should be a no brainer
  10. I'm leaning that way myself, just wondering if down the track I would still be wanting a sled for the Harvey Miter gauge, I guess I could still purchase the Miter Express and the Harvey gauge would fit into that if needed
  11. Even though the Miter 5000 is a sled ? How did the Harvey miter gauge reduce the times you used your 5000 sled ? In what way was the Harvey so much better ? and when would it be necessary to use the sled? I'm getting myself confused as to whether I need a sled or just a good miter gauge I'm considering upgrading my TS to a Harvey and if I do the Harvey includes the miter gauge in the deal
  12. Mark thanks for the name of the joint, that makes things much easier and yep, I have settled on getting the plunge type Very neat ! thanks for the pictures
  13. Thanks again for the info I live in Australia and we seem to have pretty much the same options as you guys. I will look into purchasing a 1/2" router that I can keep in a bench / table type setup. I will choose the plunge type now I understand a bit more about its uses. I don't do much routing work but you can bet your balls if I don't buy the plunge type thats exactly the one I'm going to wish I did
  14. thanks wtn would you mind explaining why the preference to a plunge router ? I do have a trim router that is setup in a small bench jig that I can clamp to my workbench I have been reading on and off (when free time permits) about plunge/fixed or motor body only routers and all I have done is confuse myself TIA
  15. On my to-do list is to mount a router permanently on the side of my TS Doing my head in reading about plunge / fixed or motor only at the moment but I will continue the battle Of course oncle the router is bought and setup the biggest job will be this old boy learning how to do it Thanks mate
  16. Good idea ! Thanks mate, I couldn't think of what would work, that will do the trick nicely I'll go look up how to do the 'male' part now Thanks very much
  17. I have included a photo of a workstation that I knocked together for my wife who makes macrame stuff. I want to make another that can be packaged in pieces posted and reassembled. I thought about making slots in the backing board for the wings to slide into and figured T slots would work but for the life of me I cannot find the correct term for the 'female' connection so the 'wings' can slide into the backing board and not fall out . Can someone help an old truck driver out please Geoff
  18. Good idea and thanks, I drive interstate trucks and am only home on the weekend for a day and a half, my woodworking time is very limited Thank you Good to know, thanks for the info Good point, thanks for the info
  19. can anyone tell me if purchasing the Miter Express sled and adding the Incra 1000 miter gauge works out as the same as buying the Miter 5000 ? I don't have the funds to shell out on the 5000 at the moment and was wondering if I can just split the cost by buying seperately
  20. Saturday afternoon here gee-dub that is some beautiful work there making your own setup, I would need a well setup saw to make that as you have It's a bit of a catch 22 isn't it, need a well setup saw to make a jig to set my saw up
  21. Appreciate all the input. I should mention that 4 months ago I lost my job but have found work as an interstate truck driver which has me leaving home on Sunday afternoons and returning on Friday evenings which doesn't leave a lot of time to pursue my hobbies. I will re-read all these posts and comments when I can but wanted everyone to know that I appreciate all responses and explain why it may take a week or so for me to get around to it. Thanks for the detailed response and photos gee-dub Regards Geoff
  22. OK, blade alignment was good ( tested with combination square) Fence alignment was out ( the rear of the fence was closer to the blade than the front) by approx 1.5 mm gee-dub thats a neat setup, can you explain how to setup for the other plane ? I don't really get the meaning or understanding
  23. Hi Mick Thanks, that was an interesting video. Do you know anything of this from fine wood working about aligning the tablesaw in 2 planes ? I'm going to go out to the shed now and check the blade and fence alignment first before I worry too much about aligning the 2nd plane Thanks again for your help