RetRRman

Members
  • Content Count

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

RetRRman last won the day on February 18

RetRRman had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture
  1. Slow going with whole kitchen remodel but got the walnut top finished. Thanks for all the advice and tips. After trying various stains and dyes on some scrap and on the bottom side of this slab it was decided to use NO stain and just polyurethane. I used Arm-R-Seal gloss to build up a few coats (used cotton cut up t-shirts) and finished it off with same brand polyurethane but in satin. I did not use plywood underneath. I attached top to cabinets using perpendicular to grain slotted boards and table fasteners (sort of an L shape) so that slab can move with changes to temp/humidity. The double edge pulls of the thick slab look nicely. Thanks again.
  2. The lumber I have is 1 x 6 x 12’ kd walnut
  3. I was thinking about it and since I will build the top separate from the plywood I would try to place it without the plywood first. How did they attach it to your cabinet bases?
  4. Maybe a 1/4” round over bit to remove sharp edge. With plywood mechanically attached to base cabinets you may very well be correct about the hardwood top not being able to tip. I didn’t think of that. Silicone would probably work well too. thanks
  5. Thanks WB. I suppose I could do it without the plywood as you have. My concern was overall strength as this top will overhang approximately 12” on one long side to use as an additional surface to eat, use laptop, etc. I would be using decorative corbels to help support the overhang.
  6. Thanks Richard. Good insight. I’d have to do some research to find a flexible epoxy. I will seal the bottom side of the hardwood top before attaching to plywood base. After final tweaks, easing edges etc. would it be wise to do final finish (plan is UV resistant dye, sanding sealer, gel stain, satin poly) before attaching top to plywood (while still in the workshop) or wait to final finish until after attached. I’m not sure if it matters but would prefer to attach it fully finished. thanks
  7. First post here. I have a lot of wood framing, flooring, etc. experience (and tools) but not furniture building and need some guidance to put a top on a kitchen peninsula that is going to be used as a tabletop. I would like the top to “appear” to be 1 1/2” thick and I'm working with 3/4” thick 1 x 6 hardwoods boards (s4s) that I already have. My thoughts are to glue up boards for a roughly 38” x 84” rectangle. I plan on 3 board glue up and a separate 4 board glue up then finally gluing the two sections together. I do not have enough hardwood material to double stack for the 1 1/2” look (and it would seem like a waste of material anyway) so I thought I would glue assembled hardwood top to a quality piece of 3/4” plywood. The plywood wood be 4” or so narrower on all sides so I could double up the exposed overhangs with same hardwood for 1 1/2” look. I’d fill 38” sides with 4” end grain cut offs. Cheaper and easier to use hardwood veneer plywood and band it with 1 x 2 hardwood I suppose but I want to use up this lumber and want more of a slab look. Any comments (good or bad) welcome. If this is an accepted method for a top my question would then be procedural (things like should I glue hardwood boards to plywood at same time as gluing them together to make top, etc) thank you Dave