Embarrassed Newbie

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About Embarrassed Newbie

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    New woodworker, small projects, furniture

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  1. To finish out this thread, I appreciate Coop's attempt to help. That screw was not the problem. I contacted Bosch who handles service for Skilsaw these days and spoke to an engineer. I knew the saw was out of warranty, but I was just looking for guidance on why it was not working. I sent photos and a video, but he didn't know what was wrong either. So he said, pack it up and send it back. Even though it was out of warranty, he volunteered that they would fix it. This, despite that Bosch will no longer support Skilsaw after December 2020. He could have easily blown me off. He sent the
  2. I've had my Skilsaw SPT70WT-01 for a couple years with no troubles. All of a sudden, my arbor lock would not work anymore. It would only move about a 1/4 inch and would not lock the blade. This made it impossible to remove the blade as the blade was really wedged on. I originally thought the plate had been damaged and this was why the blade would not lock. I dissembled the saw and eventually removed the blade. Now that I can see the arbor lock plate, it does not seem damaged. I can see it is hitting a "wall" on the right hand side of the picture. You can see in the photo, that when I d
  3. A few years ago when I first started in woodworking, I purchased a Wen 6552 planer. There was a discussion of this planer in early 2017. My experience with it has been good, but I am getting a lot of tear out these days. I expect that I need to replace/sharpen the blades. I just upgraded by 6" jointer to a Shelix Helical head and love it. I'd like to do the same to the Wen, but I can't find any helical heads for the Wen. Does anybody have experience doing this? I know the head would cost more than the planer itself ($340). But the motor seems good and it seems that a good head on this
  4. Unfortunately, she just copied these from something she saw online. I don't have the original pics.
  5. Can anyone help identify this type of wood? My daughter would like me to make this, with the color variations. I'm not sure where to get the wood with included sapwood. Any suggestions? Thanks. Embarrassed Newby (she loves that name)
  6. Well, I guess there is a consensus here! I'll have to look around for a place that can assist. Please let me know if anybody happens to know a place in Northern Virginia! Thanks.
  7. I'm looking for some advice on resawing a piece of walnut that is 5ft by 10 1/2 inches by 2 5/8 inches. One edge is a flat 90 degrees and the other is a live edge. I don't have a bandsaw, but could use one at a community center if this is the best way to cut the piece to two long planks about 1 1/4 inches thick. The goal is to resaw it so that I can make a river table with a resin live edge center. Resawing a piece that 10 1/2 inches thick seems like a challenge. I have not used a bandsaw before, so don't know the limits of this equipment. Any advise on how to do this? Suggests for keep
  8. Thanks for all the advice, guys. I really appreciate this forum as a learning tool!
  9. Chestnut- Thanks for the response. Your comments on Osmo on epoxy make sense, but I saw a couple of youtubers who really like Osmo on epoxy. Just because it's on youtube, though, doesn't make it correct! I'll polish the epoxy like auto clear coat. Then I'll look at a different finish. I liked the look of the Osmo on the wood. Could I hit the wood with Osmo and then protect the whole thing with wipe on poly?
  10. Hi. I'm looking for some guidance on finishing epoxy river tables. I know there are a ton of videos online; I've watched many. But my results were not as expected. I have a small table (really just a test since I had never used epoxy that my daughter now wants for an end table). As recommended in a couple of videos, I sanded it all down to 320 and used two coats of Osmo Polyx, but I had a lot of scratches on the epoxy. It was also overall fairly cloudy. It was always meant to be opaque, but this was cloudy from the finish. So I decided to wet sand the whole top to 1500. Naturally, tha
  11. Higtron- I've flirted with the idea of building a fence. I've built more than a dozen jigs--some more accurate than others. For something so important as a fence, though, I think I'd rather spend the money and have something that (hopefully) will be accurate and square. Thanks for all the help, guys!
  12. Wtnhighlander- I was going to permanently attach the saw into the table. You make a good point about the front of the saw perhaps being too small to support a large rail system. I've been going back and forth on whether to attach one directly to the saw or embed the saw within the table and attach the rail to the table instead of the saw. Given that its a small saw, I'd like a few extra inches between the front edge of the saw and the blade than I have now. When cutting a large piece on my crosscut sled, I've had difficulty because not enough of the sled's mitre bars are in the slots to ma
  13. Gee- Thanks for the helpful post with pictures. The 45" will be the entire width of the table. The idea of shifting a 30" rail system is very helpful. I'll consider that.
  14. I have a Skilsaw SPT70WT portable table saw that I want to put in a custom built outfeed/assembly table. I would like to upgrade with a good aftermarket fence, but I only want one with a front rail as opposed to front and back. I see videos and photos online of people with this set up, but don't see many for sale and can't tell from the photos what brand/model they are using. Nearly all I find have front and rear rails. For example the Delta T3 (link) has both front and back rails, but the discussion has people disagreeing on whether it needs the back rail to be secure. I've also looked a
  15. Thanks so much for all the advice guys. I've learned a lot and really enjoyed sitting and listing to the conversation. I love this forum and the time that you guy give to a Newbie!