Embarrassed Newbie

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About Embarrassed Newbie

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    New woodworker, small projects, furniture

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  1. Well, I guess there is a consensus here! I'll have to look around for a place that can assist. Please let me know if anybody happens to know a place in Northern Virginia! Thanks.
  2. I'm looking for some advice on resawing a piece of walnut that is 5ft by 10 1/2 inches by 2 5/8 inches. One edge is a flat 90 degrees and the other is a live edge. I don't have a bandsaw, but could use one at a community center if this is the best way to cut the piece to two long planks about 1 1/4 inches thick. The goal is to resaw it so that I can make a river table with a resin live edge center. Resawing a piece that 10 1/2 inches thick seems like a challenge. I have not used a bandsaw before, so don't know the limits of this equipment. Any advise on how to do this? Suggests for keeping the blade straight through the cut? Many thanks for the help!
  3. Thanks for all the advice, guys. I really appreciate this forum as a learning tool!
  4. Chestnut- Thanks for the response. Your comments on Osmo on epoxy make sense, but I saw a couple of youtubers who really like Osmo on epoxy. Just because it's on youtube, though, doesn't make it correct! I'll polish the epoxy like auto clear coat. Then I'll look at a different finish. I liked the look of the Osmo on the wood. Could I hit the wood with Osmo and then protect the whole thing with wipe on poly?
  5. Hi. I'm looking for some guidance on finishing epoxy river tables. I know there are a ton of videos online; I've watched many. But my results were not as expected. I have a small table (really just a test since I had never used epoxy that my daughter now wants for an end table). As recommended in a couple of videos, I sanded it all down to 320 and used two coats of Osmo Polyx, but I had a lot of scratches on the epoxy. It was also overall fairly cloudy. It was always meant to be opaque, but this was cloudy from the finish. So I decided to wet sand the whole top to 1500. Naturally, that also took off the Osmo Polyx from the wood. Even wet sanded at 1500, the epoxy has scratches although it's clearer than it was. I'm planning to polish the epoxy with Meguiar's Ultimate compound to remove those scratches. My question is at what point do I refinish the wood with Osmo? Do I polish the epoxy to get that as clear as possible and then Osmo the whole project? If I get the epoxy perfectly clean from scratches, what will the Osmo do over the epoxy? Thanks for any advice you can provide.
  6. Higtron- I've flirted with the idea of building a fence. I've built more than a dozen jigs--some more accurate than others. For something so important as a fence, though, I think I'd rather spend the money and have something that (hopefully) will be accurate and square. Thanks for all the help, guys!
  7. Wtnhighlander- I was going to permanently attach the saw into the table. You make a good point about the front of the saw perhaps being too small to support a large rail system. I've been going back and forth on whether to attach one directly to the saw or embed the saw within the table and attach the rail to the table instead of the saw. Given that its a small saw, I'd like a few extra inches between the front edge of the saw and the blade than I have now. When cutting a large piece on my crosscut sled, I've had difficulty because not enough of the sled's mitre bars are in the slots to make it steady. Adding a few inches would help. Embedding the saw fully within the table would solve both of these issues. But my concern is getting the saw and rail to be perfectly square and absolutely locked down. If I spend this much on a rail system, I want it to be accurate and square.
  8. Gee- Thanks for the helpful post with pictures. The 45" will be the entire width of the table. The idea of shifting a 30" rail system is very helpful. I'll consider that.
  9. I have a Skilsaw SPT70WT portable table saw that I want to put in a custom built outfeed/assembly table. I would like to upgrade with a good aftermarket fence, but I only want one with a front rail as opposed to front and back. I see videos and photos online of people with this set up, but don't see many for sale and can't tell from the photos what brand/model they are using. Nearly all I find have front and rear rails. For example the Delta T3 (link) has both front and back rails, but the discussion has people disagreeing on whether it needs the back rail to be secure. I've also looked at the VSC rail system, but it's a bit expensive and I'd rather not deal with the metal work in creating the rail system. Any suggestions on a decent ($200-$400) front-rail-only table saw fence system? The table will be about 45" wide. Thanks.
  10. Thanks so much for all the advice guys. I've learned a lot and really enjoyed sitting and listing to the conversation. I love this forum and the time that you guy give to a Newbie!
  11. Thanks so much for all the advice guys. I've learned a lot and really enjoyed sitting and listing to the conversation. I love this forum and the time that you guy give to a Newbie!
  12. The wood was fairly fresh from a hardwood distributor. I was cutting it perhaps a couple of days after bringing it home. Both the distributor and my garage were very humid. I have no idea what the moisture content was of the wood. Now I've learned to check and have bought a meter. But if it's too high, how do you dry it? How long does it take? I don't have the space to let the wood cure in my garage for a year (as I've seen discussed online).
  13. I believe the top was made with a 4/4 by 4 inch wide board. The 4/4 was resawed and glued together to make a 8inch wide plank. Then flatted with a planer. You can't see the seam at all and there is no crack there. Inset for plexiglass was made with jigsaw and a rabbet to hold the glass was made with a router. Edges were also rounded over with router. Not sure how to make a mortice and tenon joint on a top that isn't more than 3/8 inch thick. The box is with my daughter in her dorm, so I can't measure it, but it was thin.
  14. I'll seriously consider veneer. I have some mahogany veneer left over from a project where I veneered an old Ikea dining room table (one of my better results). Perhaps a solid Mahogany top, although the grain pattern won't match very well. I've only veneered flat, 90 degree surfaces. Can you veneer over a rounded edge? I have preglued thick veneer on hand.
  15. The panels were glued to the plywood rings. I understand what you are suggesting about screwing the panels to the ring. I'll keep that in mind if I try again. I'd have to make thicker panels to screw into it. But if it's an octagon so the panels are all attached to each other, wouldn't the movement still be a problem? I can see a tabletop strinking/expanding and using jointery to allow for movement, but how would you do it when the circumference of the octagon can't change?