Embarrassed Newbie

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Everything posted by Embarrassed Newbie

  1. To finish out this thread, I appreciate Coop's attempt to help. That screw was not the problem. I contacted Bosch who handles service for Skilsaw these days and spoke to an engineer. I knew the saw was out of warranty, but I was just looking for guidance on why it was not working. I sent photos and a video, but he didn't know what was wrong either. So he said, pack it up and send it back. Even though it was out of warranty, he volunteered that they would fix it. This, despite that Bosch will no longer support Skilsaw after December 2020. He could have easily blown me off. He sent the FEDEX shipping label and I only had to pay the $39 for a box to hold the tablesaw. This is actually the second time Bosch has repaired the saw. The last time was after 13 months of use (12 month warranty). I don't recall the problem, but they sent me a brand new unit. This was the new saw and I'd had it for about 18 months. Bosch service repair has been great!
  2. I've had my Skilsaw SPT70WT-01 for a couple years with no troubles. All of a sudden, my arbor lock would not work anymore. It would only move about a 1/4 inch and would not lock the blade. This made it impossible to remove the blade as the blade was really wedged on. I originally thought the plate had been damaged and this was why the blade would not lock. I dissembled the saw and eventually removed the blade. Now that I can see the arbor lock plate, it does not seem damaged. I can see it is hitting a "wall" on the right hand side of the picture. You can see in the photo, that when I depress the red tab, it can only move about 1/4 inch before hitting this wall that blocks the plate from rotating further. I can not figure out how it ever could have worked. It does not seem loose. I believe the red tab should be able to be depressed further so the plate rotates and the slot moves farther towards the screw to the right of the red tab. This would lock the arbor from turning and locking the blade in place so it can be loosened. What am I missing here? Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
  3. A few years ago when I first started in woodworking, I purchased a Wen 6552 planer. There was a discussion of this planer in early 2017. My experience with it has been good, but I am getting a lot of tear out these days. I expect that I need to replace/sharpen the blades. I just upgraded by 6" jointer to a Shelix Helical head and love it. I'd like to do the same to the Wen, but I can't find any helical heads for the Wen. Does anybody have experience doing this? I know the head would cost more than the planer itself ($340). But the motor seems good and it seems that a good head on this machine would make it servicable for a long time to come.. I could get a Dewalt for $600, but I'd still have straight blades. I also have the Wen built into a flip top in my large assembly bench. The Dewalt wouldn't fit. Appreciate any thoughts people my have.
  4. Unfortunately, she just copied these from something she saw online. I don't have the original pics.
  5. Can anyone help identify this type of wood? My daughter would like me to make this, with the color variations. I'm not sure where to get the wood with included sapwood. Any suggestions? Thanks. Embarrassed Newby (she loves that name)
  6. Well, I guess there is a consensus here! I'll have to look around for a place that can assist. Please let me know if anybody happens to know a place in Northern Virginia! Thanks.
  7. I'm looking for some advice on resawing a piece of walnut that is 5ft by 10 1/2 inches by 2 5/8 inches. One edge is a flat 90 degrees and the other is a live edge. I don't have a bandsaw, but could use one at a community center if this is the best way to cut the piece to two long planks about 1 1/4 inches thick. The goal is to resaw it so that I can make a river table with a resin live edge center. Resawing a piece that 10 1/2 inches thick seems like a challenge. I have not used a bandsaw before, so don't know the limits of this equipment. Any advise on how to do this? Suggests for keeping the blade straight through the cut? Many thanks for the help!
  8. Thanks for all the advice, guys. I really appreciate this forum as a learning tool!
  9. Chestnut- Thanks for the response. Your comments on Osmo on epoxy make sense, but I saw a couple of youtubers who really like Osmo on epoxy. Just because it's on youtube, though, doesn't make it correct! I'll polish the epoxy like auto clear coat. Then I'll look at a different finish. I liked the look of the Osmo on the wood. Could I hit the wood with Osmo and then protect the whole thing with wipe on poly?
  10. Hi. I'm looking for some guidance on finishing epoxy river tables. I know there are a ton of videos online; I've watched many. But my results were not as expected. I have a small table (really just a test since I had never used epoxy that my daughter now wants for an end table). As recommended in a couple of videos, I sanded it all down to 320 and used two coats of Osmo Polyx, but I had a lot of scratches on the epoxy. It was also overall fairly cloudy. It was always meant to be opaque, but this was cloudy from the finish. So I decided to wet sand the whole top to 1500. Naturally, that also took off the Osmo Polyx from the wood. Even wet sanded at 1500, the epoxy has scratches although it's clearer than it was. I'm planning to polish the epoxy with Meguiar's Ultimate compound to remove those scratches. My question is at what point do I refinish the wood with Osmo? Do I polish the epoxy to get that as clear as possible and then Osmo the whole project? If I get the epoxy perfectly clean from scratches, what will the Osmo do over the epoxy? Thanks for any advice you can provide.
  11. Higtron- I've flirted with the idea of building a fence. I've built more than a dozen jigs--some more accurate than others. For something so important as a fence, though, I think I'd rather spend the money and have something that (hopefully) will be accurate and square. Thanks for all the help, guys!
  12. Wtnhighlander- I was going to permanently attach the saw into the table. You make a good point about the front of the saw perhaps being too small to support a large rail system. I've been going back and forth on whether to attach one directly to the saw or embed the saw within the table and attach the rail to the table instead of the saw. Given that its a small saw, I'd like a few extra inches between the front edge of the saw and the blade than I have now. When cutting a large piece on my crosscut sled, I've had difficulty because not enough of the sled's mitre bars are in the slots to make it steady. Adding a few inches would help. Embedding the saw fully within the table would solve both of these issues. But my concern is getting the saw and rail to be perfectly square and absolutely locked down. If I spend this much on a rail system, I want it to be accurate and square.
  13. Gee- Thanks for the helpful post with pictures. The 45" will be the entire width of the table. The idea of shifting a 30" rail system is very helpful. I'll consider that.
  14. I have a Skilsaw SPT70WT portable table saw that I want to put in a custom built outfeed/assembly table. I would like to upgrade with a good aftermarket fence, but I only want one with a front rail as opposed to front and back. I see videos and photos online of people with this set up, but don't see many for sale and can't tell from the photos what brand/model they are using. Nearly all I find have front and rear rails. For example the Delta T3 (link) has both front and back rails, but the discussion has people disagreeing on whether it needs the back rail to be secure. I've also looked at the VSC rail system, but it's a bit expensive and I'd rather not deal with the metal work in creating the rail system. Any suggestions on a decent ($200-$400) front-rail-only table saw fence system? The table will be about 45" wide. Thanks.
  15. Thanks so much for all the advice guys. I've learned a lot and really enjoyed sitting and listing to the conversation. I love this forum and the time that you guy give to a Newbie!
  16. Thanks so much for all the advice guys. I've learned a lot and really enjoyed sitting and listing to the conversation. I love this forum and the time that you guy give to a Newbie!
  17. The wood was fairly fresh from a hardwood distributor. I was cutting it perhaps a couple of days after bringing it home. Both the distributor and my garage were very humid. I have no idea what the moisture content was of the wood. Now I've learned to check and have bought a meter. But if it's too high, how do you dry it? How long does it take? I don't have the space to let the wood cure in my garage for a year (as I've seen discussed online).
  18. I believe the top was made with a 4/4 by 4 inch wide board. The 4/4 was resawed and glued together to make a 8inch wide plank. Then flatted with a planer. You can't see the seam at all and there is no crack there. Inset for plexiglass was made with jigsaw and a rabbet to hold the glass was made with a router. Edges were also rounded over with router. Not sure how to make a mortice and tenon joint on a top that isn't more than 3/8 inch thick. The box is with my daughter in her dorm, so I can't measure it, but it was thin.
  19. I'll seriously consider veneer. I have some mahogany veneer left over from a project where I veneered an old Ikea dining room table (one of my better results). Perhaps a solid Mahogany top, although the grain pattern won't match very well. I've only veneered flat, 90 degree surfaces. Can you veneer over a rounded edge? I have preglued thick veneer on hand.
  20. The panels were glued to the plywood rings. I understand what you are suggesting about screwing the panels to the ring. I'll keep that in mind if I try again. I'd have to make thicker panels to screw into it. But if it's an octagon so the panels are all attached to each other, wouldn't the movement still be a problem? I can see a tabletop strinking/expanding and using jointery to allow for movement, but how would you do it when the circumference of the octagon can't change?
  21. Second post, second fail. This project is a box for holding eye glasses. My daughter saw the design online for $200+. I said "I can do that." ...mmm, maybe... It's a simple box with dividers. The flocking inside turned out great. Top (don't recall the species of wood) has a glass inlay that worked well. A bit sloppy on the underside, but looked good from the outside. At first, the only problem was the back wall was too thin for the hinges that I used. Need to rethink the hinge issue. Here is the finished project when first completed. Three months later, I saw the box again. Note the warp in the lid. How do you ensure the wood is dry enough? How do you dry wood in a garage? Thanks.
  22. First time poster here. I've been woodworking for a year and had some successes and a few failures. Here is my greatest fail. I did not think about wood moisture content (I've since bought a meter). These were made in the garage when it was very humid. Wood was Brazilian Cherry and Maple. The project is an eight sided table with a top that would hold a marble tabletop from India. The marble is translucent, so it I installed a strip of LED lights inside the table. Don't worry about the stuff on the inside because that would have been inside a sealed top and bottom. That putty was needed to make the top sealed from light leakage. Obviously the problem is the splitting of the wood and separation of the panels. Each of the eight panels are strips of Brazilian Cherry, maple, and another Brazilian Cherry. The intersection of each panel has an inlay of 1/4 inch of maple to hide the gap. For strength and support are three rings of plywood. The design was mine (probably the problem!) It was beautiful (if I say so myself) when it was completed, but then I brought it into the house for three months before taking it out to give as a gift. By then I had multiple splits in the walls as well as the top. I'm looking for guidance on how to fix (doubtful) or how to improve in the future. Thanks.