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About Valleyslim

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  1. My table saw is incredibly out of line. I watched a video on my specific saw and i cant just move the cast iron. I have to adjust the motor. but the saw marks are pretty deep and im starting at 80 grit and its taking forever to get rif of the saw marks. To be honest i've done 2 days of sanding at 80 grit and the saw marks arent even going away, i may have to start with 40 or 60. I just did a river table and taking it to my local lumber yard to have it run through their drum sander, i may just bring my cutting board and have them run it through also, thanks for the advice
  2. I need to get off my lazy butt and just hook up my dust deputy and shop vac, but no suction right now, just shooting it into the bag it came with. Im starting at 80 grit and it doesnt seem to take off any end grain at all after 15 minutes of sanding
  3. I have a cheapy ryobi RO sander, and just recently bought 100 mirka sandpaper 5" so would like to stay with 5 inc RO sander. Budget ~150$. I have yet to try the new sand paper on the ryobi yet. Im currently sanding an end grain cutting board and im going through diablo sandpaper like crazy and seems like im not getting anywhere sanding the saw blade marks down. I know end grain is difficult to sand but im pretty sure my 35$ ryobi is also part of the problem too. Thanks in advance
  4. I used cedar planks for a kitchen island counter and covered it in epoxy. I did 3 coats at 1 ounce per square foot to seal the wood and then 3 ounces per square foot for the final coat. The epoxy gives off a tiger's eye effect, if you ever seen a tigers eye rock
  5. Just a cheap ryobi random orbital and diablo disc. I watched a wood whisperer video and I think because I skip grit might be a problem, no dust collection, and i tilt for those pesky spots. I need to fix those problems also i picked up a tip from another video to put a colored dot on the side of the pad, and if i can see the dot while I'm sanding in pressing too hard. Thanks everyone, I'll prob order a 50 pack of 60, 120 or 150, and 220 grit
  6. Basically I'm just looking to buy my orbital sanding disc in bulk. I'm tired of buying the 5-10 packs of each grit. I see a ton of bulk sanding disc kits that have all sorts of grits but what brand should I look for. I've always bought diablo but not sure if that's a good brand since I go through them so fast. Thanks in advance
  7. I don't know your budget but check out gardnerville, nv. About 15 mins away from tahoe. It does snow but very little. It's at the base of the mountain and your surrounded all sides by mountains, very beautiful. I'm from California also and would advise against building anything as permits are costly and they are super slow about it. Also gardnerville is very close to California border. I've never seen so many 4+ garages in my life. One person had an 8 car garage barn looking building also depending on your budget you can get these houses with a couple acres. Also great place to raise a kid as the schools are 7+. Its a small town which I like but its California prices. I would love to live there but since it's a small town, not a lot of places to work
  8. thanks for the input, is building an extension table for it worth trying?
  9. just like title states im in a market of either jointer or planer or possibly both. Im in 1 car garage so im limited to bench top style only. I would like to get the helical or spiral cutters. The dewalt 735x with stand is 599 at homedepot but the byrd upgrade would be another 380$. Actually was browsing these forums and the cutech jointer was on the side of the website advertisements for a decent price. I could get both 6" jointer bench top and bench top planer with spiral cutter (not a full helical) for pretty close to the price of the dewalt. Another model i looked at was grizzly bench top spiral model but that was about 700. Any thoughts?? thanks in advance
  10. So I'm also building a mobile kitchen island for my small kitchen and I built the counter top for it and I'm designing the base for it but then I realized that the glue up with those went very good in my opinion. The wood is only about 3/4 inch thick (I wish I bought think cedar planks but oh well) but I didn't mess with blade or fence alignment, and all cuts were made with same tablesaw, the way the cedar is glued is exactly how I want my cutting boards to look, so does the thickness of wood make a difference in forgiveness? I can barely see the lines of where I glued up my cedar planks. Also what's a good square, I was debating about picking up woodpeckers, also thanks everyone for the help
  11. Unfortunately I don't own either, I do want to pick up a planer or jointer during black friday It's just a tad under the cast iron Yeah I did do that Yeah I'll mess with it again, I think the problem is I don't have a tool that's square, I only have a carpenter's and framing square from empire which I'm pretty neither is accurate especially my framing square as it looks like 89 degrees just from my naked eye I'll do my best to give another go I already spent 2 hours trying to get it square but I knew after I gave up it wasnt perfect but as close as I could get it, for the longest time I fought with the fence as I noticed with I clamp the fence down the end of the fence would shift left making end of fence closer to saw blade, but I sorta fixed it, but there is a lot of play when I move the fence, I really don't like it. Anyone have suggestions on a square or any device to help me with getting the alignment fixed? I'm pretty sure neither of my empire squares are accurate, I mean I paid 5$ each. I bought cheap tools to make sure I like the hobby and I do. I wish I bought the best I could afford back when I started. I can afford a saw stop right now, but I want to wait till I move out of Taxifornia so I don't have to move it, thanks in advance
  12. That's exactly the part I'm on, I want them to be flat before I glue them up because the gaps are pretty big, I'll admit my fence isn't 100% true, I got it the best I could for an amateur, I havent exposed end grain yet I'm sure something is out too but I've done my best to make it true, it's a hybrid delta and I wish I just bought a better saw, I've just done first step and cut all the sizes and I'm ready to glue up but I have tons of gaps I just used the factory flat side. One side was milled and opposite side had rugged edge so I used the flat side against my fence I'm doing something wrong but I'm not sure what and I just cut 1 side off the side from previous cut, no flipping, I used a widely to make sure blade was 90 degree to table, maybe the wixley is off?
  13. Im trying to make the wood whisperer's cutting board, and im just using a 24 tooth blade from diablo, and my cuts into the hardwood makes it look like there is a bump in the middle so when I try to glue up the cuts together there is a gap on top and bottom and only the middle is touching, I've made many adjustments to the saw as much as I could but I still have that middle sticking out. my plan was thinking a planer would fix this but if both sides have that bump i don't think that will work because i need at least 1 side flat. So is it my blade? my tooth angles seem to lean left and right every other tooth is that makes a difference. Thanks in advance
  14. This is what I was trying to accomplish with 1x4, maybe 2x4 could have worked but I'm just following a plan I bought
  15. i will be laminating the ply wood or 1x4 together to make a poor man's bridle joint