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Valleyslim's Achievements

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  1. Are you talking about getting the epoxy off after a pour or just flattening your slab after the pour? 60 grit makes quick work of the epoxy if your just trying to get the excess off. But if your flattening i personally just went to my local hardwood dealer and paid them to flatten it. They charged 35 for my small slabs and 75 for my larger one. I have a router sled too but im just lazy and don't wanna clean up after. To answer your question about hand planning, there is nothing wrong with that.
  2. Looking to pipe my dust collection system with 4 inch pvc pipe. Specifically schedule 20 because of its cost efficiency. I know rockler sells schedule 40 pvc pipe attachments but schedule 40 is 75$ per 10 ft as a opposed to 35$ per 10ft for schedule 20. I've called everywhere locally here in Idaho. pipe companies, building supply, sewer supply, electric supply, big box stores, hardware stores, plumbing repair, farm/tractor supply stores and no one carries it. Well 1 ace hardware had 2 sticks and i asked them if they could order more and they said its back ordered no eta. I might pick up those 2 sticks but i need about 40 ft worth. I called every online dealer that came up in search and they only sell 2.5 inch pipe. Anyone else have any other suggestions before i bite the bullet and just pay for schedule 40? i checked for sewer/drain pipe as in some states call it that instead of schedule 20 but when i asked, they told me it was schedule 35
  3. I'm doing a lot of research on HVLP sprayers for lacquer finish for spraying furniture. My budget is 500-600$. There seems to a split opinion on gravity vs siphon. This will be for spraying lacquer only. I have a graco 5 for paint. I'm having a hard decision of going with a fuji semi pro or buying an air compressor with a decent spray gun (like a husky or tcp gun). My real only concern with the fuji is it seems pretty loud and is constantly on whether im spraying or not. So my question is do you prefer gravity or siphon for lacquer and if the turbine setups are really better as some people claim vs the air compressor setup. I'm probably over thinking this as it seems lacquer is pretty easy to spray and is somewhat forgiving. FWIW the cabinet shop i work at uses graco 5 to spray lacquer for their finishes but i'm honestly not a fan of the graco 5 for lacquer. I like it for paint though
  4. I'm not sure about the c channels. I personally have never used them but on big dining tables, I've seen them used. My guess to keep it stable since you have 2 peices of wood that are connected by epoxy?
  5. Its going to look weird on the sides. While on the topside you give the illusion that its a river table the side will show. If that doesn't bother you, then make sure you seal the bottom of the wood where you routed out otherwise you'll be plagued with bubbles. I made drawer fronts for my bed and all I did was use a jigsaw and cut a random pattern. It didn't use that much epoxy.
  6. I've done a couple river tables and just jumped in feet first with walnut slab. I do coffee size tables but at 6ft you may need c channels. I like blacktail studio on YouTube for river tables. I use a fast setting epoxy (4 hours to set) on the wood slab where the color epoxy will touch otherwise you get tons of bubbles when you pour. Sand with 220 after the fast set dries. Tyvek tape on your mold so epoxy won't stick. I use melamine for mold. Also you have to keep swirling the epoxy every 4 hours otherwise color sets on the bottom. If its gummy then stop swirling. I also use epoxy as a finish on my river tables or any table top I make. I do 1 ounce per sq foot of clear epoxy with 3 coats sanding with 220 in between coats. Final coat is 3 ounces per sq foot. Have to do this way otherwise wood soaks in the epoxy. I use this epoxy and also the calculator provided
  7. At the cabinet shop I work at. We use Deerwood fasteners. I like them and I think they are located in north carolina
  8. So just giving an update. I ended up buying a grizzly 0858 and the guy who delivered it b lined straight to my garage without saying anything. He happily took the tip I had ready for him
  9. yeah i have some ideas of what i migth able to do. but on grizzly's website under their delivery policy it says they drop it on the curb of residences
  10. yeah problem with that is getting the machine off the truck once i get home. learned that after woodcraft loaded my truck with my table saw, got home and was like now what. i mean i eventually got it off but it was sketch as hell and dont want to do that again
  11. palate jack is the thing i was trying to think of and yes its the jointer/parellelogram
  12. I was going to order their 8inch parallelogram which is about 487 lbs. I have a sloping garage probably like everyone since thats code to make sure water goes away from the house. I called Grizzly and asked the limitations of where they can physically deliver the machine. They told me they will only drop item on the curb and will NOT go anywhere but the curb. So i asked about how am i supposed to push a crate with a 487 lb machine up a slopped driveway and they said its up to the driver to do that. My response was well thats not worth it to buy a 3000 dollar machine (jointer+tax+delivery fee) and pray to GOD the guy will infact help me push this into my garage. So has anyone ordered heavy machines from grizzly and had the same problem as me? or any advice? i was thinking about offering 50$ tip to driver to put in the garage but my fate would still be in the hands of the driver if they want to or not or if thats completely against their policy. Another thought would be rent a lift hand fork lift thingy and ask my 4'9 wife to help, have her get behind to help push and test my true love for her whether i hold or not. i dunno, any thoughts?
  13. This is one of the things I was hoping to learn from them but their shop layout is pretty bad too mostly because its too small for the production we do. I have to move 2 machines and 4 carts just to get to the shaper
  14. yeah good idea of just cutting the table down and repurposing it, i saw your post earlier and grats on the new shop. Kinda funny too because on a side we breed miniature dashunds and will be breeding french bulldogs within a year so we are looking to buy land to eventually build a barndominium with a smaller building to house the dogs in kinda like your shop used to be About the vertical storage i have wall control, a drill station, and bora wood shelving in the junk pile, i wanted to find a good layout first before i started installing them this is also worth considering ok thanks, i was wondering what a good distance was on the outfeed of a jointer would be. also the dust collector isnt set in stone as far as location goes
  15. Thanks for the input. I would like to do mostly furniture. so mostly hardwood. I sometimes use sheets good but since i started working at a cabinet shop. The owner lets me use the sliding table saw and also they let me buy sheet goods at wholesale price so i can break everything down at the shop. But yeah your right, i think self discipline is where im either gonna fail or succeed at getting this going. Do people buy outfeed tables? I mean it would only appeal to sawstop users or just dump it?