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About Valleyslim

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  1. thanks for the input, is building an extension table for it worth trying?
  2. just like title states im in a market of either jointer or planer or possibly both. Im in 1 car garage so im limited to bench top style only. I would like to get the helical or spiral cutters. The dewalt 735x with stand is 599 at homedepot but the byrd upgrade would be another 380$. Actually was browsing these forums and the cutech jointer was on the side of the website advertisements for a decent price. I could get both 6" jointer bench top and bench top planer with spiral cutter (not a full helical) for pretty close to the price of the dewalt. Another model i looked at was grizzly bench top spiral model but that was about 700. Any thoughts?? thanks in advance
  3. So I'm also building a mobile kitchen island for my small kitchen and I built the counter top for it and I'm designing the base for it but then I realized that the glue up with those went very good in my opinion. The wood is only about 3/4 inch thick (I wish I bought think cedar planks but oh well) but I didn't mess with blade or fence alignment, and all cuts were made with same tablesaw, the way the cedar is glued is exactly how I want my cutting boards to look, so does the thickness of wood make a difference in forgiveness? I can barely see the lines of where I glued up my cedar planks. Also what's a good square, I was debating about picking up woodpeckers, also thanks everyone for the help
  4. Unfortunately I don't own either, I do want to pick up a planer or jointer during black friday It's just a tad under the cast iron Yeah I did do that Yeah I'll mess with it again, I think the problem is I don't have a tool that's square, I only have a carpenter's and framing square from empire which I'm pretty neither is accurate especially my framing square as it looks like 89 degrees just from my naked eye I'll do my best to give another go I already spent 2 hours trying to get it square but I knew after I gave up it wasnt perfect but as close as I could get it, for the longest time I fought with the fence as I noticed with I clamp the fence down the end of the fence would shift left making end of fence closer to saw blade, but I sorta fixed it, but there is a lot of play when I move the fence, I really don't like it. Anyone have suggestions on a square or any device to help me with getting the alignment fixed? I'm pretty sure neither of my empire squares are accurate, I mean I paid 5$ each. I bought cheap tools to make sure I like the hobby and I do. I wish I bought the best I could afford back when I started. I can afford a saw stop right now, but I want to wait till I move out of Taxifornia so I don't have to move it, thanks in advance
  5. That's exactly the part I'm on, I want them to be flat before I glue them up because the gaps are pretty big, I'll admit my fence isn't 100% true, I got it the best I could for an amateur, I havent exposed end grain yet I'm sure something is out too but I've done my best to make it true, it's a hybrid delta and I wish I just bought a better saw, I've just done first step and cut all the sizes and I'm ready to glue up but I have tons of gaps I just used the factory flat side. One side was milled and opposite side had rugged edge so I used the flat side against my fence I'm doing something wrong but I'm not sure what and I just cut 1 side off the side from previous cut, no flipping, I used a widely to make sure blade was 90 degree to table, maybe the wixley is off?
  6. Im trying to make the wood whisperer's cutting board, and im just using a 24 tooth blade from diablo, and my cuts into the hardwood makes it look like there is a bump in the middle so when I try to glue up the cuts together there is a gap on top and bottom and only the middle is touching, I've made many adjustments to the saw as much as I could but I still have that middle sticking out. my plan was thinking a planer would fix this but if both sides have that bump i don't think that will work because i need at least 1 side flat. So is it my blade? my tooth angles seem to lean left and right every other tooth is that makes a difference. Thanks in advance
  7. This is what I was trying to accomplish with 1x4, maybe 2x4 could have worked but I'm just following a plan I bought
  8. i will be laminating the ply wood or 1x4 together to make a poor man's bridle joint
  9. so i bought the work bench plans from shop nation and his frame for the work bench is made out of 24 1x4x8 boards. i was thinking about just buying 2 sheets of plywood and cutting my own 1x4 to make 24 1x4x8 strips instead of going to homedepot/lowes and going through a pile for 24 straight pieces, i remember being in there for about an hour just looking for 8 2x4 that were decently straight. anyways my question is will the plywood be stronger or weaker than the 1x4 pine boards? i can get decent 3/4 plywood for 47 a sheet and a 1x4 is 3.53 at home depot so were talking about less than a 10 dollar difference thanks
  10. what would be a good alternative to baltic birch for indoor furniture such as platform bed or tv stand? I bought maple plywood and havent seen 1 void yet out of the only 2 sheets i got from the lumber yard for 47$ for a 4x8 3/4 inch. I guess is maple ply still sturdy enough? thanks in advance
  11. so my local lumber store sells Baltic birch 4x8 sheet for 74$, is that a good price??
  12. Sherwin Williams is having a sale on their paint and stains 40% off from april 12-14. I need stains and finishes but not sure what I need. I wanna stock on them now that they are sale so I don't pay full price when I do need a finish. So my question is what are some must have finishes for home furniture projects so I can just stock up and have. thanks
  13. Starting to finally build stuff in my shop. Already made a work table out of maple plywood, but was wondering what plywood is good for indoor furniture. My first 2 projects are gonna be platform bed and TV stand. I have access to Baltic birch, but I don't want to spend that much for a sheet of ply. If it helps, I get my plywood from a lumber yard, not big box stores, thanks
  14. I bought a dewalt dws779 miter saw and i plan on using it for an upcoming project, but im really confused on which blade to upgrade too. I've looked into diablo,freud, irwin maple, and forrest ww2. I'm having a hard time finding a 12 inch blade with a 5/8 arbor, most of them are 1" arbor. If i had to guess i would mostly be using it to cut 2x4 up to maybe 2x10?? which brand blades do you guys go to for blades? thanks in advance
  15. So i think im gonna save up and buy the milwaukee plunge/base set, but i want to start off with a trim router for now just for edging mdf 1/2 and 3/4 inch. Is the 1hp colt bosch a good choice for that? a couple other choices are either rigid or makita all for 99, but the bosch is on sale at lowes for 89, the rigid is tempting as it comes with as a box sander for 99$ but i dont think i would ever use a box sander as i already have a random orbiting sander, thanks for all your good input