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Everything posted by Valleyslim

  1. When I was really into home theater. I watched movies on my htpc. You needed a good graphics card for the best 4k experience. I spent a good couple hours tweaking the settings in madvr. Had to download 3 sample videos 720p, 1080p, and 3680p or whatever 4k is and raise the settings until the frame rates dropped for each video. It sucked but it was either that or buying an oppo at 1000$ or Panasonic blue ray player for 400$. For streaming though its really hard to beat Nvidia shield pro
  2. I was. I haven't been on there in a long time. But the people there were helpful
  3. Have you heard of eminence or lavoce for 21 subs? The box is called the devastator. Supposed to be best of both worlds for mid and low frequency. Yeah I have htm 12 and currently building the 1099. The htm 12 is hard to beat price/performance. I'm curious how they compare to the 1099s
  4. I fell deep into the rabbit hole for diy audio. Have you looked into outlaw amps? Made by the same company that makes Macintosh amps. They also under spec their power unlike other companies. On their 5 channel its advertised at 125 per channel but audioholics did a dino test on it and it consistently at 135 watts per channel. I'm currently building lcr for my living room im just too lazy to make the crossovers. I built some theater speakers like the ones in the cinemas.
  5. I should also add i bought 2. 1 for me and 1 for work. I'm copying my works mitersaw design since that's what I use daily
  6. This is why I need to change lengths quickly. This is just 1 house and I do 2 sometimes 3 houses a week. When I got in cabinetry I thought it was gonna be like fine woodworking. Turns out its just like construction. Have to keep up. If your wondering we build for new construction houses and this particular house or model is 8k square feet. Our kreg stop block is done. Doesnt hold in t track anymore and moves to easily. The material i use is 3 3/8 inch by 8ft for hdf or 10ft for harwood so going gentle against stop block is hard because I cut 2 at a time and white oak sucks Thanks for reply. We used a. Kreg so its offset like 2 inches from the indicator so it would need to extend 2 inches out and its just a small brass screw. I'm trying to brainstorm how I'm going to incorporate it
  7. I just bought Johnathan katz moses zero dflection stop block for my miter station however im trying to figure out how to incorporate it with the tape measure on the fence. I've searched hairline indicator and cursor trying to find options to add to the stop block so i can accurately measure. Every reviews of the stop block doesnt seem to use any measuring system. any ideas would be helpful. i dont have the miter station built yet but the fence will 1/8th inch behind the miter saw fence with a t track on top for tape measure and stop block to mount in
  8. This is perfect for me as I need a miter saw for a station I'm about to build. I own the 779 but the slider takes up too much room in the back and I have cross cut sled so no longer need it. Dewaly 715 on sale for decent price
  9. Are you talking about getting the epoxy off after a pour or just flattening your slab after the pour? 60 grit makes quick work of the epoxy if your just trying to get the excess off. But if your flattening i personally just went to my local hardwood dealer and paid them to flatten it. They charged 35 for my small slabs and 75 for my larger one. I have a router sled too but im just lazy and don't wanna clean up after. To answer your question about hand planning, there is nothing wrong with that.
  10. Looking to pipe my dust collection system with 4 inch pvc pipe. Specifically schedule 20 because of its cost efficiency. I know rockler sells schedule 40 pvc pipe attachments but schedule 40 is 75$ per 10 ft as a opposed to 35$ per 10ft for schedule 20. I've called everywhere locally here in Idaho. pipe companies, building supply, sewer supply, electric supply, big box stores, hardware stores, plumbing repair, farm/tractor supply stores and no one carries it. Well 1 ace hardware had 2 sticks and i asked them if they could order more and they said its back ordered no eta. I might pick up those 2 sticks but i need about 40 ft worth. I called every online dealer that came up in search and they only sell 2.5 inch pipe. Anyone else have any other suggestions before i bite the bullet and just pay for schedule 40? i checked for sewer/drain pipe as in some states call it that instead of schedule 20 but when i asked, they told me it was schedule 35
  11. I'm doing a lot of research on HVLP sprayers for lacquer finish for spraying furniture. My budget is 500-600$. There seems to a split opinion on gravity vs siphon. This will be for spraying lacquer only. I have a graco 5 for paint. I'm having a hard decision of going with a fuji semi pro or buying an air compressor with a decent spray gun (like a husky or tcp gun). My real only concern with the fuji is it seems pretty loud and is constantly on whether im spraying or not. So my question is do you prefer gravity or siphon for lacquer and if the turbine setups are really better as some people claim vs the air compressor setup. I'm probably over thinking this as it seems lacquer is pretty easy to spray and is somewhat forgiving. FWIW the cabinet shop i work at uses graco 5 to spray lacquer for their finishes but i'm honestly not a fan of the graco 5 for lacquer. I like it for paint though
  12. I'm not sure about the c channels. I personally have never used them but on big dining tables, I've seen them used. My guess to keep it stable since you have 2 peices of wood that are connected by epoxy?
  13. Its going to look weird on the sides. While on the topside you give the illusion that its a river table the side will show. If that doesn't bother you, then make sure you seal the bottom of the wood where you routed out otherwise you'll be plagued with bubbles. I made drawer fronts for my bed and all I did was use a jigsaw and cut a random pattern. It didn't use that much epoxy.
  14. I've done a couple river tables and just jumped in feet first with walnut slab. I do coffee size tables but at 6ft you may need c channels. I like blacktail studio on YouTube for river tables. I use a fast setting epoxy (4 hours to set) on the wood slab where the color epoxy will touch otherwise you get tons of bubbles when you pour. Sand with 220 after the fast set dries. Tyvek tape on your mold so epoxy won't stick. I use melamine for mold. Also you have to keep swirling the epoxy every 4 hours otherwise color sets on the bottom. If its gummy then stop swirling. I also use epoxy as a finish on my river tables or any table top I make. I do 1 ounce per sq foot of clear epoxy with 3 coats sanding with 220 in between coats. Final coat is 3 ounces per sq foot. Have to do this way otherwise wood soaks in the epoxy. I use this epoxy and also the calculator provided
  15. At the cabinet shop I work at. We use Deerwood fasteners. I like them and I think they are located in north carolina
  16. So just giving an update. I ended up buying a grizzly 0858 and the guy who delivered it b lined straight to my garage without saying anything. He happily took the tip I had ready for him
  17. yeah i have some ideas of what i migth able to do. but on grizzly's website under their delivery policy it says they drop it on the curb of residences
  18. yeah problem with that is getting the machine off the truck once i get home. learned that after woodcraft loaded my truck with my table saw, got home and was like now what. i mean i eventually got it off but it was sketch as hell and dont want to do that again
  19. palate jack is the thing i was trying to think of and yes its the jointer/parellelogram
  20. I was going to order their 8inch parallelogram which is about 487 lbs. I have a sloping garage probably like everyone since thats code to make sure water goes away from the house. I called Grizzly and asked the limitations of where they can physically deliver the machine. They told me they will only drop item on the curb and will NOT go anywhere but the curb. So i asked about how am i supposed to push a crate with a 487 lb machine up a slopped driveway and they said its up to the driver to do that. My response was well thats not worth it to buy a 3000 dollar machine (jointer+tax+delivery fee) and pray to GOD the guy will infact help me push this into my garage. So has anyone ordered heavy machines from grizzly and had the same problem as me? or any advice? i was thinking about offering 50$ tip to driver to put in the garage but my fate would still be in the hands of the driver if they want to or not or if thats completely against their policy. Another thought would be rent a lift hand fork lift thingy and ask my 4'9 wife to help, have her get behind to help push and test my true love for her whether i hold or not. i dunno, any thoughts?
  21. This is one of the things I was hoping to learn from them but their shop layout is pretty bad too mostly because its too small for the production we do. I have to move 2 machines and 4 carts just to get to the shaper
  22. yeah good idea of just cutting the table down and repurposing it, i saw your post earlier and grats on the new shop. Kinda funny too because on a side we breed miniature dashunds and will be breeding french bulldogs within a year so we are looking to buy land to eventually build a barndominium with a smaller building to house the dogs in kinda like your shop used to be About the vertical storage i have wall control, a drill station, and bora wood shelving in the junk pile, i wanted to find a good layout first before i started installing them this is also worth considering ok thanks, i was wondering what a good distance was on the outfeed of a jointer would be. also the dust collector isnt set in stone as far as location goes
  23. Thanks for the input. I would like to do mostly furniture. so mostly hardwood. I sometimes use sheets good but since i started working at a cabinet shop. The owner lets me use the sliding table saw and also they let me buy sheet goods at wholesale price so i can break everything down at the shop. But yeah your right, i think self discipline is where im either gonna fail or succeed at getting this going. Do people buy outfeed tables? I mean it would only appeal to sawstop users or just dump it?
  24. So i have done 2 shop layouts in 2 different garages and i hate the way i layout things. I'm constantly tripping over stuff and give myself very little room to work around. I would like to make this hobby into my job. I'm extremely unorganized so that doesn't help. I watched a couple videos on youtube about tips for shop layout and i did the graph paper method to try to help me move my shop around. I don't know what it is, but i start a project and never finish it. I'm not sure if i dont know how to finish it but i kinda build as i go. I think this is partly the problem. If i follow thorough plans i can finish a project. But for now i need to focus on making my shop more enjoyable to be in. 2 things that keep me from going in the shop is: #1 i started working in a cabinet shop 6 months ago and i just dont feel like wood working after 8 hours of sanding or making shaker style doors all day. #2 The shop is a disaster and has terrible workflow. I've narrowed it down to these 2 major factors. A little context first, I have money saved up to buy a dust collector (have a 3/4 horse power blower but it kinda struggles with the drum sander) and 8" parallelogram. I have decided to go with the Oneida Super Cell and they offer free piping layouts and thats a main reason i want to have a layout first before i have them doing a layout for 4 inch piping. Also i want to add a real assembly table which is 28" tall. My out feed/asembly table is 36" tall or whatever the height a sawstop is and assembling furniture on that is a challenge as im only 5'4, also my work's assembly table is that height and i do really enjoy building and sanding on it better than a higher surface. I've considered trying to sell my out feed table to make a smaller one but like everything its not complete. i made the frame and top and havent finished it since I uploaded 2 images, the first being what my shop is like now. everything is on wheels and all my tools are surrounded by either wood(off cuts and materials) and unfinished projects. So first i need to finish the projects so i can move everything around. the 2nd picture is what i think is a better layout and this is where i need your guys expert opinion/advice. I am planning on building a miter station on the wall where my tool box currently is. Also any advice to help me be more productive as in actually finishing stuff would be appreciated. I am able to use the car parked area but would need to the space to park the wife's car in at night. 1 square is 1 square foot. I do not have the assembly table, dust collector, or parallelogram yet so thats why they are off to the side. Im pretty embarrased at the last 2 photos but its a mess
  25. i thought wood workers where part of a cult but yeah i meant cut list