MRiddickW

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  1. Uhh, looks like I was overzealous this time. That wouldn't lock together in shelf configuration at all! But you get the idea I hope. Pretend the top maple board is 1/2" lower.
  2. Lock together to some extent. In a sense. Imagine rotating it 90 degrees CCW, so the opening is facing up. You'd still be able to lock them together, but if they had handhold slots (which I plan to add), they could conveniently stack together in a closet or cabinet. Yeah, coming back to this I realize I completely forgot about my original goal of making these lock in side-to-side. In the attached picture I did a quick-and-dirty fix. I think that would work but I'd have to play with it later to make sure. The other nice thing about this is that the shelves would be in contact with each other, lending a bit more strength. Good thought about the base, I'll have to think about that. Thus far I'm planning on 30" wide. I plugged the weights into the sagulator and got a good result, but I'll take another look. That's the idea. I realized I wasn't doing that in the original design, but my revised version is. This might be a good thing to pair with a base like gee-dub suggested. Once I'm in a more permanent space, make basically just a big thing that looks like an "L" in profile to get a wider base and vertical surface to secure them to. Might be good to make it 60" wide so I could make it 2 shelves wide. I'll probably cross that bridge when I come to it, as long as I plan from the beginning about how to secure them to said vertical surface.
  3. Hi all, I've been thinking about organization and storage for my CDs that would work better than cardboard boxes. I had the idea of interlocking "crates", something that would allow me to store the CDs spine out or spine up depending on the orientation of the crate, essentially converting between storage and shelving, depending on the need. Here's my first draft idea. I've been assuming I'd just make them out of plywood since I'll probably need about 10 of these; the maple and cherry is just to provide contrast for the 3D model. Looking at the drawing, I'm starting to think my endcap design is a little convoluted, and not particularly robust. Plus I still need to add some slots to use as handles when they're in storage (spine up) mode. So I guess what I'm wondering is: Any good ideas to simplify, while also maybe adding robustness? I'm also not above having a friend with a CNC router just batch these out since my priority in this case is the destination, not the journey. In which case simplicity of milling via dados and rabbits is less of a priority.
  4. Got a push stick, Non-Graduated Micro-Adjust Marking Gauge, a set of card scrapers, Chris Schwarz's first book on workbenches, HF 2HP Dust Collector, along with some other non-woodworking stuff.