Beechwood Chip

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About Beechwood Chip

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    Moderator
  • Birthday July 5

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Philadelphia
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hobbyist, Basement shop, Normite, Guildie

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  1. The two pedestal cabinets make a great leg, so use them. I'm more concerned about that long, unsupported front edge. I'd add two 1x2 aprons that go from each cabinet, along the front of the desk to the curve, and then continue straight to the 1x material against the wall. If you don't want to attach the 1x to the wall (renting, or want to easily move), then support it with the two cabinets and a leg in the corner, like you have.
  2. I found this video on milling live oak for ship building. It's long, but has a lot of good bits.
  3. A lot of university engineering research is "proof of concept". The concept is interesting, but the researchers just implement the bare minimum to prove that it's possible. And then some reporter videos the roomba with a jigsaw duct taped on top. The big deal here is not that a robot can cut a circle, but that a customer can go to a website, select a cabinet, and then adjust the width from 48" to 42" and the height up to 50" and press submit. The order goes to a program which pumps out the new design, and the CNC factory pumps it out without missing a beat. Think kitchen cabinets, where you're happy with a design picked from a catalog or showroom, but want custom dimensions. The same thing could be applied to a table or a dresser, for example. "I like this dining room table, but my dining room is (bigger/smaller), so I want to change the dimensions." The core of this is that a person needs to design the cabinet, design the CNC work flow to make it, and then make the whole thing "parameterized". Instead of cutting the back 48x40, the back is cut WxH, depending on the width and height specified. The doors which were 23.5" at 48 inches are now (W/2)-0.5, because the reveal is fixed and doesn't scale. And the hinge position is fixed regardless of the dimensions. You end up with a design for a cabinet that will work for any dimensions within specified limits (you can't use it to make a 10" x 8" cabinet, because at that size you need a completely different selection of molding, hardware, reveals, etc). Artificial intelligence might, in the future, be able to take a design and program the factory to make it, but you still need a person to do the design. I assume that Ikea and other large volume furniture manufacturers are already totally automated for fixed designs, so those jobs are already lost. This research just suggests a way to make semi-custom furniture with the same sort of mass production as non-custom.
  4. I'd get one or two Grrrippers. I often take the blade guard off my saw and use Grrrippers.
  5. You know, I thought mahogany, but thought, "No, that's just wishful thinking". That was before I knew that it was a veneer over construction grade wood. Now I'm leaning towards mahogany. The outside of the front door hadn't been refinished in decades, and I swear I saw tiny flecks of purple. Absolutely beautiful wood. I didn't want to refinish it and lose that, but decided I'd rather preserve it and lose some of the subtle colors than let it get ruined by the weather. I'll post some pictures of the floor tonight. Thanks everyone!
  6. The crack appeared when it was soaking wet. Do you mean that the glue might have failed when the wood was dry, and then when it got wet there was not enough glue strength to hold the wood together?
  7. Amazingly, the hardwood flooring seems to have come through OK. It might need to be refinished, but I'm not sure it even needs that. 130 year old red pine boards with square nails directly over the joists - none of this "sub-floor" stuff you get nowadays. There were significant gaps between the boards before the flood. I think there was enough space for the boards to expand and shrink back. The floor was a little wavy while it was wet, but now it seems nice and flat. I think it also helped that I had the floor refinished less than a year ago. Allstate sent a water damage remediation crew out who ran a few industrial dehumidifiers and over a dozen industrial fans for a week. They also turned my thermostat to "heat" and set it at 95. Sucking all the moisture out of the house solved most of the problems. I need drywall and paint, maybe some plaster work, cleaning, and the door. Thanks for the idea, Bryan, and for the sympathy, Coop.
  8. I had a bunch of water damage in my 1880's Victorian home, and filed an insurance claim. The water damage created a crack in one of the original doors. The adjuster said, "You can't just go to Lowes and buy one of those", and suggested I get prices to repair or replace the door. I'm guessing it can't be repaired, but what do I know? The door is 8' x 3', and the 5 bead details match the woodwork in the rest of the house. I don't know what species of wood it is. When the house was built it was pretty upscale, so while I assume that it's a domestic, it might be imported. From another door that got damaged it seems to be a thick veneer (1/8" at least) over a whitewood core. The matching front door was left unfinished and exposed to weather for many years and had a similar rich color. I'm trying to get a fair ballpark price to discuss with the insurance adjuster. I may not repair it - the house is over 130 years old and has a lot of "character". If I do decide to replace it I'll probably buy lumber and build it myself. I guess prices vary in different parts of the world - I'm in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA. Here are some photos. I'm a lousy photographer. I don't know why they are all sideways.