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About rainjer

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    General woodworking

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  1. I always like to break the edged on my projects when I build them so the edges are not sharp. Most of the time I use a router with a 45 degree bit or small round over but the set up can be a pain and keeping it even can be a challenge. I have also tried sanding block and my RO sander but that can be inconstant also. I me not thinking of trying a small hand plane. What would you recommend for this tasks? I prefer vintage tools over new ones but i would consider both. Jeremy
  2. I stopped at my parents house today and my dad gave me 21 pieces of 1"X4" quarter sawn white oak. the board are 36" to 50" random lengths. Based on my math It work out to about 24.5 B/F of lumber. At the current price at my local lumber store of $8.33 B/F that is about $205 worth of lumber. Some of the wood has been faced and some is still rough cut. He says he has more oak somewhere and some maple and pine. Jeremy
  3. I am in the need for a new blade for my table saw. I am looking for a recommendation for a good reasonable priced blade. I tend to cut more plywood than hard wood and box store lumber right now but I am hoping to start working more in hardwoods as soon as I get my jointer up ad running ad I get myself a thickness planer to be able to process the rough cut lumber. What is the best blade for the price? Jeremy
  4. Santa was good to me again this year. What did you get? I received: A plunge base for my Bosch Colt trim router. New digital calipers. (the can display in fractions) Marc' Hybrid Woodworking book A set of brass router template guides Kreg Easy-Set Stop Collar & Material Thickness Gauge/Hex Wrench Kit Shop Tunes noise canceling Bluetooth ear muffs. Jeremy
  5. I am basing my design on the one that came with the machine. I meed to incorporate the plastic tray for the accessories. It nests on top of the machine.
  6. Yes. I have made a couple longboards and I dyed them with no issues.
  7. I am want to build a new case for my wife's Singer 221 portable sewing machine. The inside dimensions need to be 12-1/2" wide X 7-1/2"deep X 10-3/4" tall and need to have a hinged lid at 9-1/2". I am thinking of making it out of 1/2" Baltic Birch with a kobalt blue aniline dye finish. As for the construction I was thinking doing 1/2" box joints on the vertical corners. My question is about how to attach the top and bottom. My first though was to recess the bottom in a 1/4" X 1/2" rabbit in the sides. To me that looks like it will leave a weak spot in the corner pin but i end up with the leas amount of edge exposure. (top picture) Option 2 to put a 1/2" x 1/4" rabbit in the top and bottom pieces and leaving a 1/4" of edge exposed top and bottom. (middle picture) Option 3 is to just attach the top and bottom with no rabbits and that leaves a 1/2" of edge exposed top and bottom. (bottom picture) Which would be the strongest joint and which do you think would look the best? Jeremy
  8. rainjer

    Dealing with HOA

    Does your HOA have noise rules? If so what are they? Are you in compliance to those rules? If your HOA does not have any rules, what are the local city/or county rules? If you a are in compliance with those rules I would do nothing. You are not in the wrong. If she continues to do what you are say, make sure you record it so you have evidence. Most place only restrict noise to certain times of the day. If you are working with in the rules you should have nothing to worry about.
  9. I would do a single layer with perimeter thicker and put bread board end on the table to cover the end grain. To add thickness to the center use plywood. Cut it 1/4 smaller than the recess and screw it in from the bottom with expansion slots. I think you are spending a lot of time and effort do a 2 layer glue-up that you will never see.... Just my opinion. Jeremy
  10. Made some progress today. The stand was kinda wobbly so I decided to make some updates. I skinned the the outside with some 5mm plywood I had laying around. I installed rivnuts in the metal stand an attached the panels with truss head machine screws so I can remove the panels if needed. I will be adding a dust chute that come out the left end. It will separate the electrical from the the dust since the motor will be mounted on the shelf on the right side of the stand. The belt will also run between the chute and the outer cover acting as a belt guard.
  11. I have no desire to turn my hobby into a business....
  12. Progress.... The jointer was missing one of the jack screw bolts and washer. Found one on eBay for $5. That came today so I got it installed and the tables leveled. Next I need to get the motor mounted and aligned withe machine.
  13. I have switched to Porter Cable. I was a Makita and Craftsman guy for may years until the batteries started to go bad. When i was looking for a replacement I start looking at the cordless platform as a whole. Who had the the cordless tools i wanted that used the same batteries & chargers. I chose Porter Cable 20V Max System because they had all of the tool I wanted. I have a drill, impact drive, 18GA nail gun, 16GA nail gun, 18GA narrow crown stapler, random orbital sander, oscillating tool and portable vacuum. i will be adding the jig saw and 4" die grinder at some point. I have 5-6 batteries and 4 chargers so i always have a fresh battery available when i need it. No matter what bran you buy, I would definitely go with a separate drill and impact driver. It save so munch time if you are pre-drill in and driving screws. Jeremy
  14. So after doing more research and consult a friend that works on machinery it appears i just need to swap the 2 wires with the blue crimped eyelets in the first picture. That make me very happy that I will be able to move the motor below the the jointer. Jeremy