Rapid Roger

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About Rapid Roger

  • Rank
    Master Poster
  • Birthday 11/24/1943

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hutchinson, Kansas, USA
  • Woodworking Interests
    All kinds. Mostly furniture and scrollsawing.

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  1. Just be sure to cover and leave raw all the places for glue. Glue doesn't like to stick to any kind of stain or finish.
  2. Most torque specs state "Tighten until you strip the threads and then back off 1/4 turn."
  3. When I was in the mobile tool business, I had those magnets all over my truck. They held any thing with steel in it and took all the bumps and shaking without any problem. (even on the ceiling) If you put a tool on it in any given direction, it will pretty much stay where you put it unless you bump it or move it. One thing that will probably not be a problem but you need to consider, after so long being put on and pulled off, the tool will become magnetized. JFYI. Sometimes that is a good thing and sometimes it is not. Yes, I use them in my personal shop to this day.
  4. Chestnut, I was a MAC Tool Distributor and sold mechanic tools from my truck. I am sure there are gimmicks out there but, I didn't handle any of them. We were the second most expensive tool company in the US. Snap-On had us beat on price but, when it comes to quality it was 6-6. The one brand of screwdriver bits that I found to hold up best (believe it or not) were Acme. I still have a few that I bought for my self. I have them from 1" 3" and up to 6" long and still use them all the time in my cordless drill and screwdrivers. I've made a terrible mistake. The bits I meant to recommend are APEX not ACME!
  5. As a ex tool pusher (salesman) , I could go on about driver bits for an hour but, just let me say...YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. The difference between a #1 and a #2 Philips screw is hard to see with a naked eye BUT there is a big difference when you use the wrong screwdriver. You usually ruin one or the other, so if you are tearing up screw heads or breaking bits, switch to the other size bit to see if that makes a difference. AND THEN, there is a screw style called "Pozi-drive. At first glance they look like a standard Philips screw but, on closer inspection you will see THEY ARE NOT THE SAME. Where Philips screws have tapered surfaces in every direction, Pizi-drive are square on every surface of the slotted area. The Pozi-drive also have a small X across the drive slot area (and yes, the driver has provision for that X) One of the wrong drivers in either style will end in frustration and maybe a broken driver or ruined screws. Then, we could get into things like "Tamper Proof Torx" also but....Maybe another time.
  6. Kind of like a dog finally catching a car... I don't know what to do with it AND I'm out of a job too !!
  7. Late to the party again but, I was going to suggest heat...in the form of an oven. I know it works with steel and aluminum and I really don't know about steel and steel but, I thought it would be worth a try. I used to put aluminum engine cases (two cycle engine) in the oven turn it on (with room for the bearings to drop out) and just sit and drink beer until I heard "tink-tink" . They would drop at about 400 to 500 degrees. Beating the bearings out with hammer and punch is a sure way to destroy an engine case. And, if you had planned ahead and put the new bearings in the freezer, you could lift the case half out with pliers, lay it on a concrete floor and drop the frozen bearing into it and wait for it to cool to room temp. Viola ! The new bearings were locked in place with no hassle and a few beers to celebrate with !
  8. I have to agree with Richard A. I live in Kansas and have used cedar on several outdoor projects (porch swing, picnic table and windmill) over the years. And I have fund nothing in finishes that will last much longer than a year on cedar. If you want to apply more finish on your fence every two years to keep the "new look" then OK, but I'll bet you will soon learn to love the silver grey natural beauty of cedar. LOL Cedar will last a long time without rot and ruin and retain that grey with NO extra work or expense just fine.
  9. I've found felt (and velvet) at Hobby Lobby . It depends on what you are doing but, I use it to line small boxes and have found "sticky back" felt of various colors in 12" x 12" sized sheets.. Also depending, "flocking" works fairly well also.
  10. I would suggest finding or designing a plan that incorporates and adjustable back to it. To each his own angle.
  11. I have OSB on my shop walls also and did not paint them. I like the fact that you can drive a nail or screw about any place and when you remove it later you will be hard pressed to find the hole. One draw back is that OSB will collect dust over time and it is hard to get rid of. I guess that is a bit true of sheetrock also however. By the way....I see you are a Jayhawker, where in Kansas are you located ? I'm from Hutchinson.
  12. Just because I'm me and will do anything twice....I would try it just to see what happens. The wood won't be soaked in water....well not for long anyway...and the jet stream is fast enough to cut in seconds so just maybe you could cut your house number or last name out of wood and hang on to it for a few years before it warps or rots away .
  13. That reminds me of the idiot that picked up his gas powered mower to trim the hedge. Yep, he is now known as "Stubby".