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  • Woodworking Interests
    Learning as much as I can over a lifetime of trial and error

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  1. I’m looking for something similar to under cabinet lighting that 3-6” in length. Alternatively a mini puck light would work. That would need to be about 1.5” in diameter. @G Ragatz thanks for the tip on the Mr. Beam lights. Those are a little bulkier than I’d like but may fit. I’ll probably pick one up this afternoon if I can’t find a better option.
  2. Greetings everyone, I am building Marc’s jewelry box as part of my wife’s Christmas present. I would like to recess motion activated Mini LEDs Into the side panels and possibly lid. I’m also planning on a mirror on the inside of the lid and I’ll be stealing Marc’s beveled blocks from the knife box build for rings and small jewelry. Anyways, I’d like the lights to be battery operated as I will just replace them as needed. Does anyone have a source for mini LEDs appropriately sized for this project. And if anyone has tried this before, any feedback on the usefulness. I plan on using some Birdseye maple veneer on the inside of the side panels and I thought the lights would really make it pop. one other question, I’m not totally in love with the raised panel side doors. It just doesn’t quite seem to fit this project. Does anyone else have a suggestion for a panel/door treatment for this project?
  3. Awesome feedback guys. If i could nix the breadboard ends I would but the wife says they are a must. If I use 6" wide boards for the BBs what would y'all suggest for tenon length? 1 1/2" gets me done without having to buy a new router bit but if I need to go longer, I can always use an excuse to buy something new The only other breadboard ends I've done were on a dresser but the top was fully supported by the dresser carcass so I didn't need to worry about support.
  4. I wondered the same thing. This was just something I came across on lumberjocks that scared the mess out of me. It's possible this could be attributed to poor joinery and leaving this table out in a rainstorm. So I could be stressing over nothing but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask. My deck is not covered but I plan on coming up with a waterproof cover for the table when it's not in use.
  5. Guys, thanks for the feedback. Sounds like the mortise and tenons are the way to go. The problem is my table is going to be about 8' long with the breadboards attached so turning the table on end with a jig for a loose tenon method is going to be a challenge. It's also going to require me to buy a new router bit. I was thinking 2" is an appropriate length. Can I get by with 1 1/2" on a 6" breadboard? I think I could make an integral tenon work but again, tenon length is my only challenge here. Alternatively, does anyone have a suggestion for cutting the mortises in the table top horizontally? Higtron, great table. Now you've got me considering a contrasting wood species for my BB ends.
  6. Hey everyone, First time posting in the forum. I did a search for this question but wasn't able to find an answer. I do apologize if it's been discussed before. Anyways, I'm working on the rustic outdoor table and I'm considering joinery for the breadboard ends. The original plan was to use a tongue and groove joint with drawbored pins but I saw a photo of the same project using T&G on lumberjocks and the ends of the breadboard were terribly warped so I'm a little scared to go that route. My other thought was to use a haunched mortise and tenon joint that was also pinned. This seems like pretty common joinery for breadboards but again I'm worried about curling and warping at the ends. Also, I think I'd have a tough time making the tenons long enough with my setup which is why I planned on the T&G originally. My other thought was to use a stopped tongue and groove joint. This would remove the lap joints at the end and solve the warping problem but I'm worried that the amount of material I'd have to remove from the ends of the tenon to account for expansion. If this is an acceptable solution, how much relief would you guys recommend between the tenon and end of the stopped groove/mortise. Also would I run into problems with such a long tenon? Would my pins blow out with this type of construction? I live in Alabama so I have a lot of seasonal moisture changes to account for. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm pretty open to anything at this point since I haven't started cutting the joinery yet. Edit: After reviewing the original photo I notice the grain direction of the breadboard. Would a straight grain board be enough to safely reduce the risk of using the T&G method?