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About storri

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Starting out. I have done simple projects in general cabintery, refinishing dining room tables, finishing furniture and relief carving. I would like to learn how to create a frame saw, side escapement / molding planes, and hand planing. My reason for that is I cannot afford expensive machinery right now. So equipment wise I am starting from the ground up.
  1. Update I used a card scraper on its end to clelar up the area below the wood screw. When I got picky on the shims to fix the depth issue for the rails that makes it work when its upside down. When I turned the bench over it operates but when I fully retract it the action seems to resist a bit until I reach about 50% extended. After which it clears up. Retracting it back again gives good motion until it binds again. Q: Is the vise functional? Yes. It is not perfectly functional but all I need it to do is move about 6 inches. If I need to clamp a longer board I will move the bench do
  2. Q: Are the rails in coplanar and parallel with each other? A: Yes. I checked the corner-to-corner measurements to see if the two rails are in parallel. I also checked to see if they were perpendicular to the end cap. Q: Did you put a straight edge to your rails before you installed them? A: Yes they are. I could not notice any apparent defect. Q: Is there wiggle room? A: Yes when the vise is fully extended but not so much when its retracted. I think I noticed something. While the rails appear to be parallel and square I think there is a bit of uneveness with the side aga
  3. I was saving Calculus for later. I figured you provide more details first. What perspective do you want of each of them? Top Down? I will see what I can convince my smartphone to do.
  4. Situation: I have built the front top section out of 5" T x 1.75" H Hard white maple. The front section has been planed down to approximately 4.75 inches. Problem: When I install the tail vise rails with their shims so that I get the top of the rails at 4.5 inches (1/4 inch below the top) along with the dog plate and the tail vise screw I see that the plate binds during its travel. If I fully extend the dog plate away from the tail vise end (mark it as 0%) and use the tail vise end as 100% then: 0% - < 50% - Easy movement 50% - 65% - Noticibly harder 70% - locks hard I still have a
  5. storri

    Piano bench repair

    This album contains photos from a piano bench that I repaired for a friend. The wood used was white oak. I did all the dimensioning of the wood and fitting of the bracket notches by hand.
  6. storri

    Renaissance Woodworker #2 - Sawbench

    Second project from Renaissance Woodworker. Its a sawbench for re-sawing wood.
  7. storri

    Renaissance Woodworker Project #1

    I started to work on the hand tool school projects from This project was to create a pair of winding sticks.
  8. Thanks everyone for all the references. That helps a lot. I want to support my local lumber mills.
  9. Anyone know of a good lumber mill which can supply domestic and exotic hardwoods near Fredericksburg, VA (22405)?
  10. Sold on the renaissance woodworker. I will just buy tools as the projects go along.
  11. I appreciate the advice on the tools. As it stands have: A set of waterstones (800,1200,4000 and 8000) for sharpening my irons. Granite slabs from a local stone cutters dumpster to reshape any blades using adhesive backed sandpaper with my honing guide. I have played around with some cheap buck brother blades from home depot to practice shaping and sharpening blades and chisels. 4 Jorgensen bar clamps Stanley SharpTooth fine finish saw Workbench I built with a friend with a wood faced vise (Fine wood working plans) Pinnacle 12" triangle (did a set of storage units with them) Set of Pfiel c
  12. Thanks for the advice. I will just pick up the bit. I have a smaller set of colt bits and have been very happy with their performance.
  13. I am looking to create the Popular Woodworking sawbench as posted in the plans found at Plans. Since I am getting started again into woodworking my only concerns are the 10 degree angles that the plans call me to use on the legs, the mortise-tenon joints on the braces and the source of the wood. Since the sawbench is the end goal I need help breaking down the project into easily measurable steps. I was thinking that I would do: Purchase rough lumber from a supplier (Can this be purchased from a local big box?) Create legs Rough cut the legs Plane the legs Measure and drill out the mortis
  14. I have been looking at forstner bits since I need to modify a workbench I build via the Fine Woodworking plans. I need to put 5/8" holes into a double layer MDF (1.5 inch thick) top to allow me to use bench dogs and jigs that I plan on making. I was looking at two classes of bits: regular and carbide-tipped. The regular are all the ones we are use to with the aggressive bit pattern. The carbide-tipped have some of the cutting surface of the original bits modified with a carbide cutting surface. I don't want to buy a porsche when I need a camry. Yet neither do I want to go cheap and regret the
  15. Thanks for the link Bob. I am just trying to judge the path that I should go. Buy hand tools first or machinery. If it is machinery then I have another step to consider which is to get 220v power added to the basement. I am renting a house and the owner is open to letting me do it through a licensed electrician naturally. The basement only has one 220v outlet for the dryer.