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About IthacaDoc

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Basic furniture, built-ins, outdoor projects

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  1. Bob, thanks. Yes, I'll have to try out some different finishes. I'm not used to buying stains and other products I may not use, but I know it's the price for getting the finish I'll prefer. Plus, if I'm not crazy about something, hopefully I can still use it on another project. Chestnut, yeah, that's the impression I'm getting. I'm assuming the bookcases will be a bit lighter than the fireplace for several years but will hopefully be similar eventually. Thanks, Mick. I'll look into that site!
  2. Thanks for the comments! Aquacoat is a grain filler, and from what you guys have said, it sounds like it probably isn't necessary for this. Bob: I agree that the stripes are beautiful.. they just won't look right next to the fireplace. I do want a brown look (like your counter) rather than a more blond color (the island). Does the Good Stuff bring out the color? I've used oil on a mahogany swing that looked beautiful, but I don't want to wait many days before I can add the topcoat.
  3. Hi everyone, I've received a lot of great input since posting a couple times last week, so here's my next question for all of you experienced folks.. I'm making built-in bookcases (lower cabinet, upper shelves) on either side of our antique fireplace surround which is old mahogany. As an alternative, I'm getting sapele. I'd appreciate your recommendations for finishing. This isn't a table top or desk, so it won't need a huge amount of protection. The mahogany is a fairly solid color, so I'd also prefer not to really bring out the stripey grain that sapele can have. I've seen a lot of comments about using Danish oil, dewaxed shellac, Arm-r-seal, and aquacoat. Is it necessary to fill the grain since I'm not looking for a glossy finish? I do want it to be smooth, though. Thanks for your comments!!
  4. Definitely agree. This is the first I'd considered doing it by hand, and honestly, I'm excited to try it!
  5. Guy over there said I can try grinding down a fluting cutter, so that might work. He also sent me a link on how to make custom cutters! This just might work! Thanks again!
  6. Tom, Wow, that's really interesting! It looks like the fluting cutter would work perfectly for the round center section, but they don't seem to have have a V shape. I suppose I'd need to make one from a blank cutter. Thanks for the idea!
  7. Thanks, wtn Definitely need to learn about using a hand plane. Zero experience with them and I have a hard time even fathoming how to make a long flat surface with a hand tool! (But I realize that's just my inexperience)
  8. Thanks, wtnhighlander, Yeah, I figured I'd be removing enough wood that I'd need at least 2 passes with a custom bit. I'm only planning on a molding width of about 2.5" (which is a little wider than the corbels pictured), so I think either orientation would work (vertical for custom bit, horizontal for the V and round bits).
  9. Second post on my first day! I'm preparing to create built-in bookshelves on either side of my fireplace which has an antique mantel. To help tie them in, I want to put flat molding on both sides that look similar to the decorative corbels on the fireplace. I'm attaching photos including the profile. Basically, there is a V, a round cut, and then another V. I'll be using a router table and sapele wood. My question: is it better to make each cut individually (V-groove, then round nose, then V-groove) or to have a single bit made (which will probably cost at least $120 but only require one or two passes)? I'm guessing the special bit would be a lot less complicated, and I'd be less likely to screw it up. I'd also welcome any constructive input you might have. Thanks very much!
  10. JohnG and Chet, thanks for the comments! The sapele is harder than any other wood I've cut, although most of my projects have involved 3/4" plywood. I think I'll give the Fusion a try and see how it goes. If I have to switch to a thin kerf, I'll also need a new riving knife which adds another $50. I was already thinking about cleaning that blade, so thanks for the reminder!
  11. Hi everyone.. New to this forum! I'm a semi-experienced amateur woodworker, mostly limited by time and workspace. I built a nice desk for my daughter a few years ago, forcing myself to learn some new joinery techniques. Now it's time to finally build a couple built-in bookshelves that will flank our fireplace. I've spent a long time getting the design drawn up. I have a lovely Grizzly 0715P that has been serving me well. I replaced the stock blade with a Freud Premier Fusion after I purchased the saw. Rip and crosscuts are beautiful, but I did find that the 2 1/4 HP is a bit light for the full-kerf blade. The new bookshelves will be made from sapele since the old fireplace mantel was mahogany. This will be my first experience with gluing up boards from lumber. Since I don't have the space for a jointer, I'm hoping my table saw (with a jig) will suffice. So here's my question: Should I purchase a new Thin Kerf Premier Fusion or try the Freud Thin Kerf Glue Line blade? The Fusion is a bit more expensive, but that's not a big concern. Based on my full kerf blade, I can't imagine a better glue line, but I was hoping to get your input. Obviously changing out blades is annoying, so if I the combo Fusion will be just as good, I'll go with that. Thanks very much!