Nick2cd

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Everything posted by Nick2cd

  1. when time permits, I'm going to run some test pieces. I'm pretty disciplined about tightening tail stock and quill lock. The book said not to go too tight so I don't burn out the bearings. Maybe I need to go tighter?
  2. I'll preface this by stating, I'm a brand new turner. I was given a brand new lathe. It's the harbor freight 10x18 that is also sold by rockler and several other companies, I believe. It has been a great little lathe thus far. However, I've noticed on longer pieces, I get some chatter near the tail stock end. I'm using carbide lathe tools. Pieces are driven by the stock spur center. Vibration lessens near spur center end. Is this normal?
  3. I've watched this video before, but I watched it again in hopes of seeing something I hadn't thought of. No such luck. I feel like I'm setting everything up correctly always release the tension I think a blade change is in order. If the problems go away, I can blame the blade. If not.....square one
  4. I could be over tensioning the blade. Everything else checks out ok. The tires look to be in fine shape. But honestly, I don't know what to look for to see if they are worn out or in bad shape.
  5. I recently switched over to a 3/16 inch highland woodworking skip tooth bandsaw Blade. The cut quality is great, and just like the wood slice or series, it cuts like butter. However, I am having major issues keeping the blade in one place on the tire. I am constantly chasing it with the tracking adjustment. I will get it perfect and then all of a sudden it is riding on thrust bearing or is completely forward of my cool blocks. is this a blade or saw issue? This did not happen with my 1/2 inch wood slicer.....Or any other blade for that matter.
  6. Yes, surprisingly, my local store has it in stock. I couldn't believe it. I'll be making a trip out this weekend.
  7. Did the mahogany have a lot of tint or pigment to it? I was considering the cedar color
  8. Looks like the srd is what I need.
  9. ok, as far as the sikkens goes, are you guys talking about he sikkens cetol dek, marine, cetol 1? not sure which product to get
  10. the sikkens has me intrigued. gonna start googleing to see if i can get it here. thanks!
  11. It has probably been 5 years since I sealed it last. that's not because the sealer lasted that long, but because I'm lazy and just getting around to doing it.
  12. Well, it's that time of year again. I just finished pressure washing my deck. What do you guys believe is the best deck sealer/protectant? I want something clear.
  13. One of the few festool items that gets poor reviews is their guide rail connectors. they are used to join two shorter rails to form a long rail. if you over tighten them, you can put dimples into your soft aluminum rail. the set screws engage directly onto the aluminum. i got this idea from the FOG. sorry for poor pic, but it consists of two pieces of steel with set screws that push them apart. they are the same design as the makita rail connectors. fun project and very satisfying. the materials cost me about $20 shipped.
  14. I'm building a small wall clock for a friend. Are the mechanisms at Rockler and woodcraft good quality or should I be looking somewhere else? Looking for a simple Quartz mechanism and compatible hands.
  15. I'm a big fan of This Old House. I'm nearly convinced that Tom Silva can do just about anything, however I've seen him freehand cuts on his tablesaw more times than I care to admit. If there is anyone out there who has the experience to pull this off, it's Tom....but regardless, it makes me cringe every time. I'm no safety guru or soap-boxer, but I'm surprised dewalt/porter cable allows them to show that. He's usually cutting to a scroll line when he does it. Just an observation. This is most likely the wrong section to be posting this. Please move if necessary [ threads merged - Beechwood
  16. Yep get a better blade and life will be good. For a 1/2" blade, get a wood slicer from highland woodworking. Great blade! Their smaller sizes are supposed to be good too but I've not used them
  17. How do u empty the bags? Cut one end then re-seal?
  18. It seems I recall reading a post a while back that advocated emptying and re-using a ct filter bag. Is this common practice or did I just make this up from a day dream?
  19. I hear nothing but good things about granat.
  20. Thanks Mark, and yes i am talking about the stick on stone like M-Rock or similar products. out of curiosity, what's the purpose of the felt and lath and scratch coat over existing concrete? how do i attach the metal lath to the concrete?
  21. I have a fireplace with an ugly 1960's brick veneer. under the veneer there is a smooth concrete shell that's about 1.5" thick. Once i remove the old veneer, can i apply the stone with type S mortar directly to the concrete or do i still need the wire lath and scratch coat of mortar? Any tips, tricks, or good installation videos would be much appreciated. i have not yet found what I'm looking for on youtube.
  22. It goes for a month or til the tools are gone. Nov 14 is the end date
  23. MIDI arrived yesterday. Has a couple scuffs on top where systainers sit but otherwise looks great. New bag and hepa filter. I'm happy. Just hope I can get a sander
  24. 40% off festool....that's like an albino Bigfoot sighting! Anyone get in on this? I have an order in for a midi extractor and a rotex 125 sander. The midi was fulfilled but the rotex is yet to be found. Fingers crossed. I'm thinking of grabbing an ETS 150 sander as well. Someone help me.....I can't stop