Ben Munford

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About Ben Munford

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Repair damaged furniture

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  1. My MSU roommate (one of them) was from Wisconsin. Great guy. Loved to go back to Wisconsin, get drunk at the bar, then take a hell ride home thru the woods on his snowmobile.
  2. Thanks G. Just so you know, my wife and I both attended Michigan State in East Lansing. Good to hear from a Michigander.
  3. Did a lot of cleaning with Howard's Golden Oak and 0000 steel wool to get the Minwax off and also Brown tinted the General Finish cherry with the Howard's. Minwax caused hazing and cloudiness on the seat. Applied 3 coats General Finishes water based clear coat. Seat is nicer that rest of chair now. All's well that ends well, I guess.
  4. Minwax did not help. Now finish is dark red and hazy. The General Finishes & Minwax combo worked perfectly on the spindles. Maybe some kind of treatment in original chair wood that's making only the red in stain show? Any ideas?
  5. 10-1-19 Arm Chairs · Cleaning: used brush thinner and rag to remove black oil from top rail and arms of chair that I did not repair with the spindle. This chair was still in the kitchen until last night when I moved it out to the garage. · Black Water Stains at bottom of legs: I originally thought these stains were paint. But it turns out they are black water stains, probably where someone mopped up against the chair, although the chair could also have been standing in water when it was in storage. Fortunately, the other 5 chairs do not have these black water stains. · I used 240 grit sandpaper to sand the end of the legs in hope of removing the black film. Sue and I both sanded on the legs. The front came out a lot better than the back. The back needs treatment of oxalic acid. · Chair Seat: I had also used the brush thinner on areas of the seat that looked dingy. In one place towards the back of the seat I took it down to bare wood. This proved my undoing. I applied the General Finishes vintage Cherry stain to the area, but the edges where it met the original finish came out looking pink. · I sanded the entire front seat ahead of the groove where the spindles are with 100 grit sandpaper. I then stained the entire seat forward of that groove with General Finishes vintage Cherry stain. I used a paintbrush, dabbed lightly and directly into the can. I used strokes back and forth with the grain of the wood until the seat was covered. Since I was able to keep myself from dipping too much of the brush into the General Finishes Cherry stain, I was able to just brush the excess into the top of the seat. I had very little drip. One coat brought out a nice cherry stain, but it is 2 or 3 shades redder than the original finish. I hope to use the Minwax penetrating cherry stain to add brown tint and semigloss tomorrow. · Left the chair to dry overnight.
  6. 440 will have 9.5:1 compression. Bigger more torquey cam. Holley 750 vacuum secondary. Sure wish I had extra money laying around. OTOH, then I wouldn't have had the chance to restore these chairs and meet everyone here.I would have just bought something new. How boring is that? Alpine white is the original color. Love it! That's the color it will stay. HAHA. Not a chance. The only women in my home are my wife and daughters.
  7. I rebuilt the transmission to use in a white 1970 Plymouth convertible that I own. The plan is to remove 318/904 and install 440/727 as a unit. Have not rebuilt 440 yet. Need to get a machinist involved there.
  8. LOL. I don't have the bug to build something. Although the spindles are done, I have the one armchair that needs a different slider so it can sit straight. Another that needs full clean up and Minwax finish. Then, I have 2 more side chairs that are already clean, but that I want to use the Minwax Cherry on to give a nice gloss. My next project is to either repair the finish on the table pictured at the start or remove the finish and refinish it. Plus, carpenter bees attacked the trim on the side of our carport roof. The bees are exterminated, but I need to replace the holy trim board. Everyone: Thanks for all the compliments. Very Encouraging.
  9. Update 9-28-19 Spindles · Spindles: 3 coats Minwax Cherry Penetrating Stain for gloss, Does not stain much, but give nice semi-gloss finish. · Cut 2 26.5” wood planks. Drill hole toward front of planks, 2.5” above table (rear x-mbr: back legs cannot come together during clamping.) Drilled 5/8” holes for ½” threaded rod, so planks can slant against chair legs. Nail & screw cloth on narrow side of planks where they will contact chair legs 9-29-19 Spindles, Install · Arm Chair: I began with the armchair because it is the most worn of the 3 chairs and I was more willing to make a mistake here. · 80 grit sandpaper: I made a roll of this sandpaper and used it to clean out the tenon holes in both cross members (stretchers). Then used air gun on air compressor hose to blowout sawdust. Dry Rag to wipe away. · Titebond III glue: I purchased this because it was the strongest and slowest setting, which gave room for me to make a mistake. Following Thomas Johnson’s example, I put some of the glue in spare jar and used a small paintbrush to dab it and twirl it in the tenon holes. I then followed the same procedure on each tenon. · Install: with the chair on its side and me between the legs, I held the left side of the spindle above the spindle where it would mount and with a twisting motion pushed the right side all the way into place. With the right-side leg behind my back, I pushed the left side leg outward until I could get the left side tenon in its hole. I then stood to the outside of the left side leg and pulled the right side leg toward me while holding the left side leg against my body. In this way the tenon fully installed on both sides. · Glue: use rag dampened with water to wipe away the glue. Before set up (10 hours), this glue is water-soluble. Afterward, it’s waterproof. · Fitment: the fit was so tight that I did not really need a clamp. However, since I had made one and the armchair does not sit flat, I chose to install the clamp anyway, hoping that perhaps the clamping action would even the positions of the legs. (Did not work) · Side Chairs: I followed the same procedure above except I didn’t use a clamp, again because the fit was so tight that I really didn’t need it. Hats off to David the Richmond Wood Turner who did such a superb job making the spindles. $75 and worth every penny. Well done! If anyone needs his contact info, I could certainly provide it. (Not sure if site allows posting name and number of a business owner?) Threw old spindles in the garbage. · Thank you all so much for your help. I will report back on the table.
  10. General Finishes Vintage Cherry Dye Stain Pic is after 1st coat
  11. John, didn't see your 2nd post. But think dye stain worked out OK. 2 coats, an hour apart.
  12. OK. What brand of cherry dye should I use? What store can I buy it at? Don't see any cherry wood dye, or any wood dye, at Home Depot online. Would this work from Woodcraft of Richmond?
  13. Got spindles made. Minwax cherry penetrating stain does not adhere well to this maple. Any recs on a stain?
  14. Thanks Tom, Mark, and John. I will contact Richmond Woodturners. Today I used @wtnhighlander method of moist heat to loosen both cross members under one of the side chairs. Basically, used old rag towels, moistened, and heated in the microwave in a pyrex glass bowl. I wrapped a hot rag around each of the tenon/joint areas. Took 15-20 minutes for each cross member, but eventually the glue loosened up enough for me to turn the x-member. Front legs came apart enough to remove Sheltie's chew toy. If anyone can date the chairs by logo or pdtn/part/model # 11651910, pic of logo on chair bottom also below.
  15. Thanks, Tpt & Tom. I was fixing the radio on my pickup and haven't gotten to the chair yet, although it is still on my agenda for this weekend. How would I find a good turner. Would I google turner in Richmond, VA? After the new wood is stained, what clear finish should I use (or should I use clear finish)? Will it be permeable to furniture oil?