roldogg

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  1. I buff it by hand with an old t-shirt/cotton rag in each hand. I recently bought the Osmo Top Oil product and tried it out on an end grain cutting board. According to the description of Osmo Top Oil, it can be used on cutting surfaces. I applied it similar to how I applied mineral oil, rub it in, wipe off the excess, repeat 2-3 times. I think this is going to be my go to finishing product for cutting boards from now on. It doesn’t build a film, it penetrates the wood, makes it water resistant, and the best thing is that it doesn’t darken end grain like mineral oil does so the colors of the woods used really stand out. I guess now I’ll have to find out how durable it is.
  2. I have a wooden gate that was built when I bought my house 3 years ago, and since then, the wood weathered to the typical grey color, which I was tired of looking at. So, I sanded everything at 220 grit, then applied a couple coats of TotalBoat penetrating epoxy. Once this cured, I followed it up with 4 coats of TotalBoat’s Lust, a marine spar varnish. The process took some time, but the gate looks exactly like it did 6 months ago when I finished it. The penetrating epoxy prevents water from getting under the varnish, causing the varnish to peel and crack, and the varnish protects the wood from UV rays. Being a gate outside, which gets constant rain and full sun, I couldn’t be happier with how it turned out. The gate has a glossy finish to it, but Lust comes in both a gloss and a matte finish. I haven’t tried the matte, but I think this combination of finishes for an outdoor project has made it just about bulletproof. I hate the grey weathered look of wood, and so far, it’s holding up like a champ.
  3. I’ve used Osmo Poyx (Satin and Gloss) on a handful of projects, and I think the biggest attraction of the Osmo is for people who don’t want a "plastic" finish. With the Osmo, the oil seeps into the wood while the wax stays on top so the feel of a finished project is a smooth natural feel of the wood. Believe it or not, this finish has been around for 40 years or so, but since it’s made in Germany, maybe they just recently decided to expand their markets beyond Europe. It has always been a finish for floors, but now more people have been using it on furniture and other things. Even though all their products are labeled as food safe, they carry another line, Osmo Top Oil, which is supposed to be safe to use finishing cutting boards/butcher blocks. I’ve bought some of this to try, but haven’t had time to make a cutting board since buying it. When applying the Osmo Polyx on walnut, or any open grain wood, after flooding the surface, you can use a green Scotch Brite pad to rub the Osmo on the surface, create a slurry, and this will fill the grain on these woods. The final coats on open grain or all coats on closed grain woods work best when applied with the white pads, which are softer and leave no scratch marks. These 2 tables I’ve finished with Osmo Polyx Satin, and I’m happy with how they came out.
  4. Here’s a picture of the finished table. It’s a C shaped river "waterfall" table, and I installed wireless charging under the top, which can charge 2 phones at the same time. Initially, I used a flood coat of epoxy over the entire thing, hated it, removed all of it, and finally finished it with Osmo Polyx Satin
  5. Thanks! Yes, it’s epoxy. I’ve already sanded it up to 2000, which is why I taped over it while I was sanding down the walnut.
  6. I’m making a waterfall river table with a walnut slab I found with some really unusual grain, what I like to call crotch rot. The slab was cut from the trunk of a tree, where a limb was growing from, and the slab was an unusual shape with holes throughout the piece. So, I ended up cutting it in half, flip the live edges towards one another, and I had to flip one side 180 degrees in order for it to be the size I wanted. I’ve already filled the voids with epoxy, along with the center “river” portion. I’ve also sanded the epoxy down to 2000 grit and taped over it so I can focus on the wood finish. I’ve gone over it with 220 grit sandpaper in some areas and a cabinet scraper in most since the grain is unusual. Just for testing purposes, I had another piece of walnut that I applied different finishes to. I applied some with grain filler in some spots, BLO, shellac, etc, but since this table with be in my living room where people can set drinks, etc, I don’t think shellac will be durable enough, especially since some of these drinks will be alcohol. Does anyone have any suggestions how I should finish this walnut and seal the grain so it’ll be durable enough for everyday use?
  7. Thanks! I’m planning to mount the blower on the wall and setup the SDD directly beneath it.
  8. Do you think it would be best to use the Super Dust Deputy, which will require reducing a 6” pipe to a 4” pipe, or eliminate the Super Dust Deputy and run 6” all the way?
  9. After years of using a ShopVac with a Dust Deputy, I finally decided to upgrade my dust collection system to something more designed for dust collection. My new Jet DC-1200VX arrived on Friday, so while I’m waiting for the electrician to install my 220 outlet, I want to get my piping in place. I was planning to hookup my Super Dust Deputy between the dust collector and my tools since I have a nice big container that it sits on, and it does a great job of collecting all the material before getting to the dust collector, keeping the filter clean of debris, but I have a question about doing this. My Super Dust Deputy has a 4” inlet and outlet and my Jet DC-1200VX can use either a 6” outlet or 2-4” outlets, I was planning to use the 6”. If I use a 6” to 4” adapter to connect the Jet to the Super Dust Deputy, should I also use 4” PVC for my runs or will I get better flow using 6” PVC? Now I’m wishing I would have bought the Super Dust Deputy with the larger intake, but that probably wouldn’t have worked very well while I’ve been using my ShopVac. The reason I’ve been considering running 4” PVC is because the Super Dust Deputy has a 4” inlet and outlet, and it seems to me that running 6” PVC after being reduced to 4” would be a waste. Am I correct? Another thought would be to not use the Super Dust Deputy and run 6” PVC directly from the Jet, but the Super Dust Deputy has worked so well I would hate to not use it, especially since I already have it. Does anyone have any suggestions on setting this up for optimal performance? Thanks!