Timberwerks

Members
  • Content Count

    208
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

16 Neutral

About Timberwerks

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 11/16/1965

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://djofurnituremaker.wordpress.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mequon, WI
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hand Tools, Japanese, Contemporary
  1. Started playing around with base pieces today. 3" thick Ash, pieces will be splayed, tapered and ebonized.
  2. Hi Spencer Hole is already drilled. I used a 6" brad point for my lead hole, followed by the 16" and 16" with 16" extension. Go slow and have a visual line of reference and you'll do fine. Here is a photo from the drilling:
  3. No need to glue rod, it's held captive. This also allows the wood and rod to move. Other than the photos there is no hint of a rod even being inside the slab :-)
  4. Hi Guys Here are some photos of current build. Inspiration for this table is origami, top is spalted maple and base will be ebonized Ash. Butterflies are Rosewood & Ebony. A 32" x 3/4" steel rod runs from one side of the slab and trough the Rosewood butterfly, this helps to stabilize the crotch area. The entry point of the rod will be concealed by the cutoff that will be re-beveled to mimic a folded edge. Cutoff in photo is actually reversed from what it will be.
  5. I prefer to angle the mortise.
  6. I may have some work I can pass onto you this Fall. Butter presses & cheese presses.
  7. Try wetting the wood down with mineral spirits before running through planer. Also try feeding the board askew. Best option though may be find someone with a wide belt sander and thickness that way.
  8. Thanks guys! This will be a coffee table. I decided to use the rod to keep the right and left of the crotch in plane with each other. This also eliminated the flex.
  9. Hi Guys Here's a technique I've used in the past to save a slab that has an unstable crotch. This time one a larger scale. The rod I used is 32" X 3/4" The entry side of the rod will be covered by the slab edge folding over as seen in mock-up.
  10. This should do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU87R008-Ripping-PermaShield-Coating/dp/B00004T7PO
  11. You can't beat the finish left by a Japanese plane :-) I converted 10 yr's ago.
  12. Some I buy, some I mill here. This was a flitch from a local sawmill. Current build is using this flitch of black walnut.
  13. Nothing like the excitement of the first shavings from a new plane. Kanna is 70mm @45deg. Blade is Kuro-Kasumi by Michio Tasai. Test wood is vertical grain Doug Fir. Even without the sub blade I was able to achieve a glass like surface with no tear out. Very pleased. DJO
  14. I'd go with Rosewood, Ebony, Wenge or African Blackwood. Any of these will work well.