Rocko

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Posts posted by Rocko

  1. Was browsing through old threads as I am saving for a miter saw. It seemed the thread I found was talking a fee gens back of saws. 

    Really leaning towards 12" SCM. With the advancement in manufacturing, have 12" saw deflection been solved? Don't mind going 10" SCM just don't want to regret not having the extra capacity. 

    Thanks 

  2. 7 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

    @Rocko, after looking at your table again, and considering the colors you experimented with, I would do this, were I in your shoes: Use the 'Tobacco' stain on the framework of the base. Maybe 2 coats, get it really dark. Then apply natural color Danish Oil to the top and to the lower shelf. Plane, scrape, and/or sand the top and shelf to 220 grit first, then use 400 grit wet or dry paper to work in the Danish oil while it is wet (apply it heavily). Follow after 15 - 20 minutes with a clean cotton rag and wipe away the excess. Repeat every 8 hours or so to get a buttery smooth, wheat straw gold finish. Then coat the whole thing with 2 or 3 coats of satin polyurathane for durability

     

    May try this on future projects. However, I started finishing yesterday. End result coming soon! 

    • Like 1
  3. 2 minutes ago, JohnG said:

    Stain is simply for making wood a different color than it naturally is. Similar to painting it, except that it is not opaque. Some wood species tend to be "blotchy" and not take stain evenly, pine and maple are good examples of that.

    Some people like staining wood, some do not (most here do not). The people who don't like stain think that if you want a darker color, then you should use a species of wood that has the color you want. However, if your spouse wants a certain look, but don't have the budget for the hardwoods that would give that appearance, stains are a good option.

    Stain is also great for repairing antique furniture. If you have to replace part of a piece of furniture, you can use stains, dyes, glazes, and toners to make the new wood look similar to the aged wood, making the repair less noticeable.

    I've recommended these videos to people many times, they have really good information about how stains work and how to get the desired appearance with them.

     

    Thanks John

  4. It's for my bride fellas. Thjs what she asked for. But while we're on the topic of applying stain... Maybe i don't quite understand stain like I thought. What is stains purpose? Or grade of lumber? Slabs? Etc...

  5. 28 minutes ago, RichardA said:

    I asked, mainly because construction lumber tends to warp, because it's rarely fully dried, Stain and a finish, might be a workable plan, but there are places where you'll have a hard time being sure you've sealed the wood.  Paint tends to cover those areas a little better.  I like the design, but construction lumber will give you problems over time.

    10-4 thank you for the advice 

  6. On 10/26/2019 at 1:23 PM, wtnhighlander said:

    No, a second fence across the leading edge of the sled. Keeps the 2 halves together on sled designs that span across the cut line.

    Gotcha 

    20 hours ago, gee-dub said:

    571773fc136ed_BoxSled(11).jpg.8b876f16c13d16e25f70884c14878b31.jpg

    like so.

    Ten four

  7. Just now, Chestnut said:

    I like to use hardwood or plywood for sled fences as i feel they have better rigidity performance compared to MDF. They also will take a screw and not break apart like yours did.

    Yeah was just saving on cost. Remake will be better

    • Like 1
  8. 7 hours ago, Chestnut said:

    LED lights are awesome. There are some I get from the box store that are like $15 each and they work awesome. I don't know if you follow Mattias Wandel but his advice about placing lights at random angles is money. It really helps prevent shadowing as the lights aren't placed parallel to benches or objects. If you want i can probably dig out the video where he explains it well.

    My dad had a dust collector like that too. For some reason he always complained about it talking back to him.... :D

    HAHAHAHAHA this one does also. I picked up 4 more LEDs today. 

    18 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

    I see you got a new dust collector, as well! :lol:

    Those kind ain't cheap either. 

    • Haha 2
  9. 6 hours ago, gee-dub said:

    Making a step up on a tool is always inspiring.  Sounds like your new saw puts a smile on your face.  I started with a used contractor saw and went through the steps that a lot of folks do.  I can say that even at the humble beginning, taking the time to setup my machines to their best potential paid big dividends and extended their useful life.  There is some discussion here about aligning your saw on two planes.  Aligning at 90 degrees and setting up your rip scale is great.  Addressing alignment at other angles becomes important as soon as you want a bevel cut to match up to something else . . . or not burn or bind.

    There are a lot of great folks on here who will go the distance to help others.  Lots of good historical threads on a lot of topics as well.  It looks like you have a good start on your journey and woodworking forums are a good resource to use along the way.  I am particularly enjoying your progress as I am trapped between shops right now for the first time in many years. 

    From here:

    1153054673_ST-2018(11).jpg.eff4e3ce3acc8c89f081ef360bf0f960.jpg

    to here:

    McLaren-Shop-20190718.thumb.jpg.cf304bf7d359efd4fd10225062bfee72.jpg

    I'm currently living vicariously through others :D:D:D

    Oh my yeah that's tight fit 

  10. 20 minutes ago, G Ragatz said:

    At the risk of committing sacrilege on a woodworking forum, I'll suggest you consider painting part of the table.

    I've seen some nice looking tables with a wood finish top and white, gray or gray-green legs/aprons or bases.  It makes for a lighter/brighter look, while maintaining the wood look on top.

    An espresso or walnut top with a white chalk pair would look very nice.