workswood4food

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About workswood4food

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  • Woodworking Interests
    tools, tool making, beautiful wood

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  1. I use Timber on Southern near Mesa drive almost exclusively. You will find it worth the $20 milling to get your boards planed; a lot of the lumber is pretty rough compared to say, WW Source. I went to some other place years ago and bought about 40 bd ft of maple, but was so embarrassed when he pulled down a full unit, cut the bands, and told me to take my time I haven't been back. Don't get me wrong, he was very nice, the lumber was beautiful, the price was good, but I felt out of my element. Timber is more my speed. I would be interested in an update on AZ suppliers, particularly PHX are
  2. Sometimes we have to work with what we have. I built a small bench years ago entirely of 4/4 maple. The top is strips, 3 inches wide, alternated so that every other strip is standing on edge, and its neighbor is flat on its face. The front 5 inches or so , where most work happens and the dog holes are, is a full 3 inches thick, glued up out of the same 4/4 stock. This has been used maybe 20 years and still looks good. Do I chop out mortises in 8/4 maple on it? No, I don't do that kind of work. And holdfasts are out of the question. But it suits me fine. For ballast I keep heavy tools on the sh
  3. I just hit them with the shrink ray, put them in a thimble, and hide them in my wife's sewing basket . Seriously, storing jigs is a huge problem I haven't solved. Some good ideas here. Thanks.
  4. I have the Wixey and it is great when I am doing a lot of TS work, which is pretty rare, actually. When I go to make that occasional cut, the battery is dead, and rather than go into the house where I have a stash of batteries I pull out the tape measure. I have an incrajig, somewhere, and while it may be wonderful if you have to reset the fence for repeat cuts, I find that usually I can plan my work such that I don't have to reset the fence. And I find aluminum and plastic a bit delicate for the kind of things I do, so I avoid tools made with them whenever possible. When i do have to do
  5. A little late to this thread, but... I start with that word processor (not naming it) that we all love to hate and print out a template. You can select up to 72 point which gives you 1 inch high letters, or type in any number to get something bigger or smaller. Then I type out my message and convert it to an outline font (use Text Effects). After printing it I take a pencil and draw in the center lines for each letter. I glue the pattern to the work with Scotch 77 and go at it with a knife. Pretty much any of the Flexcut knives will work well, but I find a shorter blade easier to control
  6. My goto blade for years was a Systimatic 40T 4ATB+R until the saw shop ground the rakers to oblivion. Needing a blade fast I ended up with a Tenryu of the same geometry. Nothing special there; it will be replaced soon, probably with a Freud if I can't get something better. Forrest maybe -- if I feel rich.
  7. Sums up my experience with Japanese saws. Some people love them. Give me a Disston #4.
  8. I took a look at some catalog photos and, sure enough, ECE has cheapened up and gone to cross dowels versus the traditional wedge mortise (not right, but my brain is not finding the right word at the moment). This makes me wonder if they have also moved away from tapered blades. That would be a real loss if they have, but tapered blades are harder to make and we are all so eager to get tools cheaper these days. With this plane you really want a tapered blade, with the cross dowel it doesn't matter so much, even a tapered blade will wiggle loose after a while because there is less bearing surfa
  9. Yeah, I agree - don't be stupid doesn't mean anything - unless you have already made plenty of stupid mistakes, then you know what it means. The first time my son used the table saw (he was 34) he let go of the offcut and it went flying when it shifted into the blade. His fingers stung for a few minutes but no other harm done. I didn't explain to him what I had learned long ago from a similar experience. In this case I was the stupid one, because I did not tell him what was second nature to me. Perhaps this rule should say don't start any power tool until you have thought through what you
  10. If it is variable speed, open up that puppy and blow out the dust. Poor environmental seals plague a lot of these tools (not just Sears).
  11. Many, many years ago I replaced the flimsy fence on my Sears (yikes!) table saw with one made from Unistrut and a toggle clamp. Best tool improvement I ever made. Unistrut is useful for so many things.
  12. 1 reason for 3HP: 8/4 maple. That 1.75 HP motor will grind to a stop. Better yet, go 5HP.
  13. Look into Emtech from Target Coatings. I used it on our Teardrop Trailer 10 years ago. It holds up well. There are numerous flavors and some have high UV resistance. This stuff is good enough to go on Boeing's composite panels as a UV inhibitor.
  14. Hmm... around here I can get poplar or alder as cheaply as pine. They are somewhat harder.
  15. While it can be necessary to learn from our own mistakes sometimes, I find it much less costly to learn from other's. To introduce this topic, I will tell you one of mine and invite you to share yours -- if you dare. Many years ago I was using a router to flatten a large table top using that time-honored method of supporting the workpiece on a frame with walls on either side that support the router, mounted on a long board. The top was clamped in place with some narrow strips of wood between the bar clamps, both to protect the top and my expensive flat bottom router bit if I got too close