bertmoog

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Speaker cabinets
  1. Same here, every time I've ever needed anything, they've done it courteously: returns, questions, problems, whatever. I was trying to use the same coupon two or three times and the website said it could only be used once. I emailed them and they replied immediately that the website was bull and said just call us and give us the order and we'll apply the discount. I've ordered [ahem] thousands of dollars worth of stuff from them over the years. Exactly. That's why I wanted to use the quarter-sawn. The straight lines IMO go better with the curved vertical surface ending into the solid.
  2. Thank you so much. Yes, absolutely: Tweeter - https://www.parts-express.com/peerless-by-tymphany-xt25bg60-04-1-dual-ring-radiator-tweeter--264-1012 Mid - https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs100p-4-4-reference-paper-woofer-4-ohm--295-369 Sub - https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss210hf-4-8-reference-hf-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-456 I have them tri-amped using a MiniDSP OpenDRC-DA8 as an active-crossover / EQ. The amps for the sub and mid are ICEPower and the tweeters are powered by a custom SE tube amplifier that I built. I've spent hours and hours designing complex crossovers before... never again. The miniDSP is so ridiculously easy to use and versatile, you can change the crossover points in seconds with a slope that could never be practically attained using passive components, not to mention losses, phase irregularities, amplifier damping factor, etc., etc. , that you see with passive xovers. Using the miniDSP, you can easily and quickly dial in a 20-20K Hz +/- 0.5db. Thanks again
  3. Well, I decided not to tint/stain the veneer. I sanded the solid teak to 220 and the veneer to 180 and then applied Helmsman teak oil to both. There is still a difference but it's not as drastic and I think I'm ok with it. Thanks for all the information. It's difficult to get the camera color temp right but still figured you'd like to see the end product. The color and darkness of the wood grain also depends on the angle that you look at it. I've never seen another wood grain act as drastically as this veneer:
  4. Right. This is what I'm trying to figure out currently (can't test now, at work). Since teak is oily to begin with, and this is a thin piece of veneer, much of the stain may remain on the surface even after wiping. The soilds might re-dissolve and get displaced with the oil coat.
  5. I'm sorry, I should've been more clear. These are just scraps for testing the oil on. Building two speaker cabinets that have the [raw] veneer on the sides and will have solid wood top and bottom caps and solid legs. Yes the veneer is a greener color especially when raw. I really thought the sun would even it out. Thanks so much for the advice. I guess artificial color is the only way.
  6. I've tried searching for advice on how to match veneer with solid wood (when finishing) and most of the time (maple, cherry, walnut, etc.) the veneer and the solid that they start with look almost identical. In my case, the veneer and solid look nothing alike. I ordered quarter sawn teak veneer online and when I received it, the color looks nothing like the beautiful, solid teak I had. The image is after applying one coat of teak oil to each. As you can see, the solid is an orangey, golden brown, with a nice range of detail and color just like I have always seen teak. The veneer is a strange tan looking color with little variation. I sat the veneer outside in the sun for a day and then compared it with a control piece. Almost no change at all, maybe a shade darker. I'm sure the veneer was cut from plantation teak, but I really didn't expect the stark difference. Was hoping to do a wipe-on oil finish with no staining because I love the look of teak, but it seems I won't be able to get away with that. I was told that this was the best place to come for intelligent and experienced advice, I would very appreciate any ideas on how to proceed with trying to match these color-wise. Thank you so much.