Cdlong

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About Cdlong

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  1. The top rabbet in the first set of sketch is only 1/4" already, I set it that way to match the top thickness though it doesn't really have to. I made the bottom rabbet taller to make a small slot to ease separating them when stacked, which is also maybe not necessary, but would be nice. If I switched the orientation, then the top wouldn't have a recess to fit into. I could make the top full size and make a lip on it to go around the sides, more complicated, but I'd only have to do it once (probably twice to make two stacks) so it's not much to do. For reference and my own documentation, each sand tray could have as much as 4 qts of sand at about 13 lbs. I'll have to check on that, the teaching trays may only have an inch of sand instead of two.
  2. Longer reply now that I'm at a computer. Good info on the dados, I had no idea, but it does make sense once I actually think about it. I'll reevaluate with a smaller dado. The spline I was thinking was more on the side like this so your simple jig won't work very well without some significant add-ons, plus my table saw fence sucks, so I'm not sure it would work very well anyway. I saw this super simple jig online as well that would get the job done without too much investment. I'm leaning a little bit toward the spline since it's something new but we'll see. Is this what you were getting at for the bottom rabbet? It would certainly work and looks simpler. I've never used an open rabbet for a bottom though, how strong and stable is it? Keep in mind this will have sand in it. Just glue? Glue and pin nails? The other idea I had was to cut a chamfer (?) in the top and bottom rather than a rabbet. This would leave more wood to support the dado and more gentle corners, but the more I think about it, it will be more likely to rock like a stack of bowls and not be very stable when stacked.
  3. Thanks for the info, both of you. I get what you're saying, plus I have some other ideas. I'll sketch them out tomorrow.
  4. This is partly me thinking out loud and working this out as I go so sorry if this gets long. Some quick background first. My wife is a play therapist, which means she gets to play with kids all day and gets paid for it. (It's therapy, generally due to trauma, so I make light of it, but it's really not.) One of the tools she uses is a sand tray, it's literally an indoor, tabletop sandbox with a lid. There's more to it that's not important at the moment, here's an online store with a few versions for reference. https://www.playtherapysupply.com/sand-tray-therapy/sand-trays I've built a few so far of various levels of quality and complexity. All have been a basic pine rectangle with a dado for a plywood bottom. The last few have had box joint corners, the first just had butt joints and let's just call that one practice. I've learned I like the joinery aspect of woodworking, and specifically the fastener-less joints. The box joint boxes have been rock solid and look pretty nice so I will probably continue that in the future. I'm doing this for a hobby with a purpose, so I'm interested in trying out new techniques and being a little fancy with it rather than production and making money on selling them (there are etsy stores for this stuff too. https://www.etsy.com/listing/551356015/octagonal-sand-tray). The next project I've been assigned (after I finish the sand tray that's still in pieces on my workbench) is where it gets interesting. I'm planning out an octagonal one and had some ideas for the joints. I think a spline joint for the corners would add something for both strength and style but would need to build a special spline jig for the 135 deg corners, I don't even have one for 90 deg corners. Is it possible to make one "all-purpose" to save some jig construction or should I just suck it up and make a 135 deg jig for this project only? The other idea is a box joint corner for the 135 angle. I found a few pictures and descriptions online so it can be done, but as I have a Leigh box joint jig that probably won't work with the board on a 45, I think I'll need to make a new jig for this too. Any experience with this or thoughts on the two options? The next similar project is to make a set of small scale boxes for teaching purposes. These will mostly be scaled down versions of the previous project with a few added details. Talking about 10-12 of them and about 12" across. I'd like to scale down the wood thickness as well to make them lighter physically and visually. I'd also like them to be stackable, only building a lid for the top one and each box would serve as a lid for the one below it. A rabbet on the inside at the top and slightly wider one on the outside of the bottom will allow them to lock together and leave a grove to pick them up separately. The drawings below are sketched out with 1/2" sides and 1/4" bottom and lid. The lip at the top is 3/16" wide and 1/4" high. I'm just worried the lips will chip out easily. The other problem is with the dado for the bottom is awfully close to the rabbet and very little wood there to keep everything together. I can adjust the dimensions but how much? Maybe make some design changes, or use a hardwood that is strong enough. The other route I was thinking was more additive, using strips glued on to keep them stacked and the bottom and lid in place. The second one is far less elegant and I like the first one better but it's less likely to break. How would you build this? Any thoughts would be welcome.
  5. Probably too late now, but you could use longer blocks for the edge. Use 2 1/2 blocks for the outside to add more visual thickness and hide a sheet of ply at the same time.
  6. You can put them either way, but they are generally pretty tall. It should only be a problem if you are 7' or something. I'll keep that in mind though.
  7. They'll probably stay on the deck year round, the snow shouldn't hurt the seat portion at least. But it looks like that have a matching fixed version. Any experience with it? It certainly looks nice.
  8. Sorry to bump an old thread, but I see you used the plans from Woodcraft. Any reviews? How is the final product, comfortable to sit in?
  9. "Forever" may have been a bit strong, but point taken. I've seen some how-to videos using 2x4s, either painted or pressure treated. I'm planning something nicer than that, but I am reasonable new to this so I don't want to get too carried away. Ipe is pretty hard and expensive, isn't it? I'll investigate that and Chet's suggestions a little more once I know what I actually need to buy (vs what will be skis).
  10. I want to build a pair of Adirondack chairs for my deck, but there are two caveats before I start cutting stuff. I want them to be comfy. I've sat in some really comfy ones and some crappy ones. I'd like these to last forever and be something I want to use on my deck I want to make them out of skis. Some of you have probably see the ski chair style at ski resorts or at your annoying ski friend's house (that's me). Here's a picture for example. I was planning on buying some plans and modifying them as needed. I have the skis and they are generally about 3 inches wide so they should translate fairly well to most plans. Some have the seat running parallel to the back, some are perpendicular. Parallel might look better, but not sure about comfort. I know Rockler and Woodcraft both have a set for sale around $15, any personal experience with these? A review on comfort as well as constructability would be great. Any other recommendations for plans? Some other related questions: The frame will still be wood, any tips? The pic above looks like 1" cedar, is that the general recommendation? Any finish needed? Skis have a steel edge that might get ripped out with a miter saw. Is that likely to be a problem, or can a regular blade handle it in small quantities? Maybe pre-cut the steel with a hacksaw to avoid tearing it out? Thanks.
  11. I wouldn't, unless you can do it elsewhere on the table, It would just seem out of place if that was the only place it's used. Also with the offset tops of each part, it might look odd. My only thoughts on the construction is on the bridle. If you just route out the sides of the base, and a slot in the upright, you probably won't get each angle to match perfectly and will have a gap on one side or the other. A notch across the top of the base will allow the whole thing to slot in and no possibility of a gap. I'd go with a bridle up top too for consistency.
  12. I was thinking of making this exact same thing. I was planning on using a box joint, partly because I like the look, but also because I have the jig for it. If you want to hide the end grain, you could add a spline to a miter joint for strength, either a hidden one along the joint or a few exposed ones (not sure of the terminology). You could use some dowels for a point of interest, I like the exposed joinery and contrasting look myself. If you don't, the hidden spline or just screws and matching plugs sounds best.