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  1. I posted a while back about an elm slab I purchased with concerns about dying times and cracking. The major concern was the pith still very much intact in the slab. I ended up taking it to a local sawmill and having it ripped in two, kiln dried, and planed. It went from 3+ inches to 2.5 but ultimately that's an ok swap with the potential air dry time and quality. Now my plan is to fasten the two sections to two continuous iron legs with appropriate slots on the plate to allow for movement, and seat a piece of glass 1/4" deep in the center. I wanted to outline my plan for you guys and see if you'd do things differently as I'm now totally in uncharted territory. The two pieces have been sanded, though not finished, to remove all roughness and splintering. When I put them together, the center line isn't totally flush so I am concerned about getting the glass to fit equally on both pieces, in terms of depth. But my plan is to: -order the glass in dimensions that will allow for 2-3" floating in the center and 1" resting on each side of the table -sand the table a little further to a softer texture then bolt to the legs with the 2-3" gap. -route (slightly deeper than?)1/4", 1" wide on each side of the gap -seat the glass to check for fit then sand down any minor imperfections It feels like that might be "too easy" or "too good" to be true though. Am I way off base? Also, there are several small cracks throughout the table, I assume these should be filled to prevent food from getting stuck inside...but would that need to be done before further/final sanding and routing? Lastly - if anyone knows anything about glass, how likely is it that a piece of tempered glass at 6-7" x 72 3/4" will warp? Would it be smarter to get annealed glass and put a safety film on it? Thanks in advance!
  2. Well that is amazingly helpful. Being relatively new to all of this, I assumed I'd need more! Thank you for your input.
  3. I've come to realize that no amount of hoping is going to replace the knowledge that you and the others on this forum possess, and that this is a long-term project both in terms of allowing the wood to actually dry and repairs down the road. I do not have the tools to remove the pith, unfortunately. At least not cleanly and I really want to maintain as much width as I can. That being said, I understand I will be in for years of difficulty if I leave the pith intact. I have an opportunity to sell this to someone who can/wants to remove the pith, and is able to plane the remainder flat, and that's probably my best option. Wouldn't you say? I was really excited about the elm, but I'm going to have to choose something else from a more reputable source and start from square one. kind of where I am now.
  4. Using a pin meter as deep as it would go, which isn't significant on top. It's now reading at 18.5-19.3% in the center with the pins either pressed slightly in or nearly as deep as I can get them. My guess is it's crazy high in the center. Thanks for your input.
  5. As I get this slab set up to air dry (elevated, stickering, weighting) I have noticed a couple things that raise concern. Here's a new album highlighting these: First I am wondering if anyone knows what the white spots are in the wood? Will these potentially go away with sanding? Also, it appears I may have some cupping on the end with the large crack. After laying a straight board across I've noticed a gap beneath it in the center of the wood. Is this considered cupping or is it more likely due to the crack? Any options on whether further lifting can be prevented OR if the addition of the iron legs later on bwill help pull the edges back down? I know ripping the pith out is an option. Seriously hoping I didn't buy a completely bunk slab.
  6. I totally understand. I don't like light colored epoxy, and this is a table my wife and I are building together. She REALLY wants to epoxy the cracks and checks with a darker color. I'm pushing for a black or brown. Though I'm sure that, too, has it's fair share of looking rough after the years. I'm going to add some bowties to the underneath. I wouldn't mind them being visible but she isn't the biggest fan and I haven't done any so I'm totally new to it. Can't say they will be the prettiest haha. Do you know if there's a way to remove epoxy should it end up looking worse in the years? I'm guessing no, just cut it out/re finish?
  7. Thanks so much for the info guys! Sorry about the language in the original post - I copied and pasted this as a cross post from one I'd made in another forum and didn't even think about it. I appreciate all of the tips shared here. I am totally new to this and have received so much conflicting information, so hearing a pretty general consensus is refreshing!
  8. I was told this is one of the best places to ask questions of this nature, so I appreciate in advance any time/advice! So I recently acquired this large elm slab. It was originally 10′ x 33″ x 3.5″ but I had it cut down to 6′ for a table. Figure I’ll use the additional 4′ for a side table or maybe something else. This slab wood is from a tree that came down in a bad storm. Not exactly sure on time frame. It was cut into slabs and stickered outdoors, weighted down by two other slabs and covered by a tarp. I want to make a single slab table from this and ideally fill the cracks with epoxy. I am looking for some input on how to do this the correct way without creating more work for myself or royally messing up the wood. It’s currently at around 16.5-17% MC. The wood in my home, and specifically in the room where it will be placed, sits at an average of 7% in the current weather conditions. Not sure about spring or summer. The slab is currently stored in my garage, which is has sheet rock but is not particularly well controlled in terms of temp/conditions. My goal is to sand it a bit, when I have time while it’s drying. Then when it gets to or below 10-11% I will put the legs, with slotted mounting holes, on and move it to the kitchen with a runner. Then when it drops closer to 7% I will fill cracks with epoxy and finish with something matte. Does this sound valid? Should I put mineral oil or something on it while it’s drying after sanding? Is it necessary to wait until it’s 7% (or even below) to fill with epoxy? AND will epoxy be enough to prevent further propagation of the cracks through the seasons? Here’s a link to photos of the slab: Edit: OH! One more – should I clean all of the splintering out of that large crack on the end?