Sean P.

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  1. Thank you everyone for your quick suggestions. I will try out a few of these and see what works!
  2. How would you go about cutting a crosshatch pattern, think multiple half laps to form a grid, that is larger than what a dado stack can accommodate? My dado stack only allows me to cut dadoes up to 3/4 inch but I want to cut a crosshatch panel that uses 1 inch material so each half lap will need to be 1 inch wide. I am trying to find or build a jig that will allow for repeatable cuts since if one cut is a hair off the entire thing will not fit together so marking out each cut wont work. My thought is to use a 1/2 inch dado stack with a box joint jig but I cannot figure out how big the key needs to be and the placement of the key on the jig to get the 1inch cut. Any suggestions for plans or has anyone set something like this up? Here is a picture of a small door I did for a hanging whiskey cabinet but the spacing was only 3/4 inch and I want to do a larger version with 1 inch pieces.
  3. Thanks Everyone for the responses! Once everything is glued up I'll have to do some testing to see how strong the joint is, but even though I was hoping not at add metal, I figured there was a chance I was going to have to. I'll add some pictures once complete or you can follow me on Instagram @fallen.timbers Any thoughts on the movement of the dowels and dowel holes? I would think that each hole and dowel, at only 1/2", would move with the rest of the board and therefore not have the same worry as an entire tenon being glued in place.
  4. I am building a 72 x 30 x 1.5 inch walnut dining table where the legs will be joined to the top using box joints (or finger joints for some), 6 5 inch boards make up the top and legs. I am also building matching benches that are 65x13.4x1.5 with the same box joint construction. While I know box joints are super strong, I am worried that since this only has three sides unlike a typical box that the box joints alone will not be strong enough to limit any side to side wobble. I really don't want to put a cross brace under the table nor use any metal brackets, so my thought was to add dowels to the box joints to help strengthen them. However, I am concerned about wood movement across the table top. I know without the dowels the legs and top should all move the same creating no problems, but will adding the dowels cause too much restriction to wood movement? Creating a floating mortise with a router wont work because of the 5 inch space between the box joints (I tried). My last option I guess would be to hand cut the mortises but that would be A LOT of them. Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Here is a picture of one of the benches and some dowels cut in underside of the bench top with mating holes in the legs.