Josh Vincze

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About Josh Vincze

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  • Woodworking Interests
    As a residential builder and shop owner I personally do a large percentage of my own woodwork.

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  1. Just wanted to say thank you for everyone's reply and inspiration. After spending about 16hrs on the metal body planes removing rust, flattening the soles, adjusting the frogs and honing irons along with their corresponding chip breakers I've found the Winchester and wards master #6 worthy of fine tuning. The other metal body planes I'll likely set up as scrub planes. I was surprised that all of them with even this small amount of tuning would produce consistent .002" shavings on southern yellow pine. The Wards and Winchester just seem to respond better to adjustments in depth of cut along with the way the frog beds in them. I've only played around with the wooden body planes for a short period of time. I do find I like the a lot. Even with my minimal amount of experience and not honing the iron at all I could get the larger plane to work on aromatic cedar. My optimism might be because I've only been using aromatic cedar and pine but I'll hesitate to pull out the rift and quartered white oak for a day I'm feeling especially cocky
  2. Thank you Chestnut. If I understand "Never use a current veritas or Lie-nielsen plane because the old planes don't compare" correctly, then I guess this exercise is just to gain a better appreciation for when I likely go lie-Nielsen. My time is valuable with a 5 month old and three year old but for the few minutes I have free I find working on the planes to be rewarding. I also hope that this exercise will help me make the right choices on what types of planes are important to me. I do see spending a grand + on hand planes as an expense and want to make sure to get it right.
  3. How about market available rust remover like what wd makes?
  4. Hoping to restore the following to working condition Stanley no. 18 block plane "excelsior" Winchester no. 3005 Bs2 Stanley Handyman Stanley C557B Fulton 15" wooden Wards masters #6 Wood plane 26" I believe to be truly old. The iron is Baldwin Steel co. Cast Butchers Are any of these worth more preserving then restoring. I would like to have quality hand planes without spending a fortune on a veritas or lie Nielsen. If I find that all parts can be honed then I plan on spending a good amount of time tuning, possibly all the way to a new paint job. Any recommendation on where to source new irons and chip breakers? If a wood plane has a check in it should I fill it with epoxy? Lots of minor cracks inside back/frog of wood plane, fill and smooth to fully support iron? White vinegar bath or elbow grease for rust? The handle on the Winchester has a crack; make a new one, purchase one or just leave it?
  5. Thank you for your replies. Don't know whether I did more damage than good but the client is happy
  6. Cast iron. I have jointed boards with fair results just shy of expectations. My last jointer was a old 8" jet that I could get better results with. I spent an extensive amount of time tuning that machine. I do not wish to repeat that same experience with these machines. I believe with proper technique jointing a 10' board should be no problem on a jointer with an overall length of 70"
  7. So far the company I purchase the jp combo off of has been extremely accommodating and for that reason I care not to mention their name. I purchased the tool about a year ago and quickly brought to their attention that the tables where not flat. With a little effort on my part within a couple of days they agreed to send me a new machine and promised to thoroughly check it before it arrived at my shop. Now I have two machines that I find far from acceptable when it comes to the tables being flat never mind coplanarity table to table or table to cutter head. Please see my attached picture and confirm or dismiss my concerns. Are there any techniques that I can use while jointing to produce a high quality product with one of these machines? I expect to be able to straighten/flatten a 10' board within a 32nd. Is all hope loss?
  8. Completely agree with the oxymoron part. The piece is definitely one solid piece and extremely old. The client is a bit of a collector of African pieces. What would be the purpose of the dealer recommending a 100% oil which would never harden? Is baobab wood like ipe making sealers/modified oils counter productive?
  9. Currently have a client with an outdoor solid (carved out of a tree trunk) baobab day bed. The client would like me to clean it without removing the patina then reapply oil. She says the person that sold it to her recommended almond oil. Any suggestions on cleaning followed by wipe on oil finish? I'm trying to slow down the growth of check marks.