Ryan D

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Designing and building furniture, working out of a small space in the back of my garage.
  1. Thanks for the advice! I'm going to redo the primary and secondary bevel and see if it improves the results a little bit.
  2. I just went on a sharpening binge for all my hand planes. Flattened the backs with diamond stones, moved to waterstones and then moved to the Tormek to set the bevel at ~25-27 degrees and got to a mirror finish with the leather strop on both sides of the edge. The results make me silly happy, I'm able to slice through paper with just the weight of the blade. Just for kicks, I pushed one of the blades directly through some end grain and got a waxy smooth finish, something I've never seen before! I was amazed until I popped it in the low angle plane and -- with the same blade -- got a rough finish - it felt like 400 grit sandpaper. I tried this with 3 different low angle planes - Stanley 9 1/2, Stanley low angle jack plane and the Veritas DX60 and got pretty much the same results across the board. So I'm wondering: - Is there a way to get that same waxy finish with a low-angle plane that's cutting at a higher angle (~38 degrees vs. 27 degrees)? Do I need to cut my bevels down to 23 degrees? - If that's not realistic, has anyone tried burnishing end grain to get it to a waxy finish? I'm planning to build walnut shelves soon with visible end grain and I'd love to have it be a hand finished / non-sandpapered waxy finish.