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Everything posted by wehope

  1. Sliding table saws still need jigs to cut small parts or to make accurate odd cuts. No different than for a traditional saw. If you're going to take advantage of the sliding table, you'll have to approach your jig making differently. Feel free to post your jigs. Sliders are really good at handling sheet goods. But small parts on a stock machine, not so much. To address this, one of the first jigs you'd want to have is a Fritz & Franz. These are handy for cutting small parts, either cross-cut or ripping. You can get as simple or as fancy as you'd like. In the playlist below,
  2. I thought it might be nice to go through some of differences between the two types of saws. Trying to be objective, I'd say that if you have limited budget or limited space, a traditional table saw would be more suitable (although small sliders are available). If you are working with larger pieces that are heavy or awkward, then a slider would be to your advantage (but you can easily do small pieces on a slider with the proper jig). A sliding table is essentially a built-in sled. Safety is inherently better in a slider, as long as you use it as a slider. You'll need 220v for a slider
  3. Mine came through their Delaware office, which is about 3 hours or so up the road. It appears they do monthly containers out of Europe. You won't end up with an exact delivery date until it's handed off to the trucking company and even that is iffy. I needed lift-gate service and it barely fit the lift. I'm not sure how a longer machine would have been delivered.
  4. The saw, with a lot of options and accessories: 2meter sliding table, dado arbor, scoring blade, outrigger with preset angles, upgraded shaper fence, fine-adjust rip fence, 3 blades, cleaner, etc. was just north of 10K. If you went with just a 2meter slider (no shaper), it's going to be about $2,500 or so less. Includes shipping. To cut smaller pieces, you use a jig called a "Fritz & Franz" which has a runner so it sits in the slot in the sliding table. You push it against the miter fence. Photo of my first one attached and that's what I used to cut the small piece. I'm making a sec
  5. Hey Mick, That's a nice looking saw. You must have a bigger shop. The Hammer pretty much takes up most of a garage bay. I'm sure you'll love using it. I have video coming out today that a comparison between the two different styles, but it's more features than usage. The goal of my YouTube channel is to showcase sliding table saws and their benefits, and disadvantages. I don't know about you, but I kinda stumbled onto a slider and finding info took some scrounging. I can say that after having the Hammer for just 6 weeks, I'd never want to go back to a traditional saw. I had a pi
  6. There were a couple of things about a slider that appealed to me. First is safety. I never felt comfortable reaching over the blade when ripping on a traditional saw. Even doing cross-cuts, once you start working with widths over 13 or so inches or long heavy boards, it's a struggle to rip or crosscut. Now I stand/walk well to the left of the blade and even the heaviest pieces glide through the blade. On a slider, your work can be fixed to the table and you can concentrate on the cut. It's basically a built in sled, so you don't need to make a sled to do straight line rips to get a clean
  7. About a year ago I finally got tired of the limitations of my Craftsman contractors saw. After looking at the offerings from the the usual suspects in the US, I had decided on a SawStop and had selected all options I wanted. All I had to do was wait for tax refund/work bonus season in the Spring. In the meantime, a video I had seen out of Germany, in German, of a guy who had a saw with a moving section next to the blade kept floating back from a memory. It took a while to find more videos and information, but once I did, I was really intrigued. I eventually ended up at the Felder Group's websi
  8. I have purchased four Laguna tools, is this order: 1412 band-saw, 8" parallelogram joiner, 19-38 drum sander and 20" planer. I've been happy with all of them and customer service has been good. China is not Taiwan and Taiwan isn't China. These names are no more interchangeable than Canada and USA. Geetech, a Taiwanese company, manufactures most of the top consumer brands of consumer machines, as shown by this page: http://www.geetech.com.tw/index.php/en/strategic-partenrship My 8" Laguna joiner came with a Baileigh manual.
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  14. Thansk, I got lucky that there was a punch out threaded pipe fitting in the top of the power box.
  15. Could be a typo in the email I got from Laguna. I'll check. Thanks for pointing it out.
  16. The manual that came with my Laguna 20” planer talks about periodic lubrication based on hours used (shown below). So I decided to add an Hour Meter as I’d never correctly estimate/remember how much time the machine has been run. This can easily be done with at least 1 Grizzly, Powermatic and a lot of Jets planers. I posted a video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/S0mO6SJ8AQM Lubrication Schedule Repeat at the intervals indicated Eight (8) Hours: - Feed Roller Bushings at the Head Screws – Top of the machine = Use a machine way oil like https://tinyurl.com/y9z8hvyc or ISO 68 Eq
  17. I have a Laguna 8" parallelogram joiner. It came with a Baileigh owners manual. It's fairly nice. A few minor complaints, but nothing to not recommend it.
  18. I had a pair of swimmer's ear plugs made a while back for riding my motorcycle and use these. Works very well. Cost me about $100. Probably the same thing as the custom shooting plugs mentioned earlier.