Dave S

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About Dave S

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    Apprentice Poster

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    Pittsburgh PA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture construction, small projects and gifts.

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  1. Been investigating this for a while and have seen many threaded insert/hanger bolt-like arrangements. So thanks for confirming this was a reasonable idea. The floating mortise and tenon seems the most stable way to do this when I envision the shelving cabinet being pushed across the floor during a move, a concern that had not occurred to me until I read your responses. Now I just have to work up a jig to get the router to place the bottom shelf mortise at the angle of attachment I am after. The legs I can do at the router table. Wish I had a domino. Anyhow, thanks so very much to you all. What a resource this group is!
  2. This is what I did with the dressers. Just like that. However, when I did a bit of a mockup it looked too bulky and cluttered when all three pieces look that way.
  3. I was trying to avoid an apron because the cabinet is so narrow, and it's not the look I was after. A few pieces of mid-century modern furniture just have independent legs and my daughter like that. But if that's the soundest way okay.Here's a pic.
  4. Y’all helped me with a finishing question a while back for dresser drawers (“Dresser glides, to finish or not?”; many thanks), and that project is still ongoing. Yea being retired I have the luxury of working very slowly which is good because my experience is limited. The dresser I’m building my daughter is three components; two chest of drawers and a center shelving component. The shelf component is small and so I wanted independent legs rather than a leg structure like I built for the chest of drawers. Because I used a box joint-like joinery for the sides, bottom and top on all 3 pieces (pic attached) I have a hardwood bottom. One way to attach them would be to simply screw through the bottom into the legs (pic of leg attached). However, that would leave a screw hole in an exposed shelf which requires me to insert a plug to cover it. Now that’s fine, if that’s the best way to do this. SO, I was hoping to get the advice from you more seasoned woodworkers. What’s the best way to attach an independent leg when you have a solid wood bottom? Quick details. The bottom of the shelves is 7/8 of an inch thick. The leg shown in the pic is about 2 ¾ inches across the top, 2 inches on the bottom and is about 1 5/8 inches wide. The direction of attachment is important to match the direction of the legs on the dresser which are rotated to face each other from corner to corner (left front-right back) and held at that angle with stretchers and a lap joint connecting the two stretchers. Sorry to be so long-winded, but I’ve kept up with the posts and see that y'all usually have a bunch of questions in order to get people the best advice. Thanks guys.
  5. @freedhardwoods as another newbie I don’t have the history and personal relationship you do with the others here on the site, but suffering is something that unites us all regardless of the depth of our relationship. Loosing a wife of 38 years is an acute pain that catches everyone’s attention. While you have my condolences and prayers, you also have my respect and deep admiration. For though I do not know you, I can see the humility in your belief that she deserved one better than you. I can see your strength as you did not turn away from death, but for her sake stood face to face with it. I can see a person so mired in grief they cannot sleep reaching out to thank those who are commenting. I can see why your wife chose you. May you slowly live through the grieving process and find some light on the other side of this darkness. While I already find you inspiring, I join the other wood talk members in placing my digital hand on your shoulder so that you will know you have many, even newbies, who are with you. God bless brother.
  6. I promised to post a picture of a comparison between some of the options you all suggested. Unfortunately, the picture only hints at what you can see with your eye. What’s mostly missing is a 3 dimensional issue and contrast. My phone just couldn’t seem to capture these. Arm-R-Seal and Endurovar alone (both semigloss) were applied in three coats with 400 grit sanding between. Danish oil was applied as the can suggested, saturating the wood then waiting 15 minutes and applying again with the final wipe off. I allowed a few days for the Danish oil to cure rather than longer figuring I only needed to get a look. However, so far no problems with adherence. Anyhow, here are my conclusions based on what I can see with the real piece in front of me: 1. Endurovar is pale particularly if the wood is viewed at certain angles and produces the least contrast. This didn’t seem to happen with with Arm-R-seal (e.g. compare left and center panel grains in the middle of the wood). 2. Danish oil topped with Endurovar eliminated the paler look, producing a deep rich tone, but likewise minimized the contrast. 3. Arm-R-Seal in my opinion captured the best of the wood producing a three dimensional depth you can’t see in the picture. Neither of the Endurovar panels captured this. Conclusion: I didn’t realize how much my eye yearns for contrast because the Danish oil certainly restored the color of the wood, but was unsatisfactory to me. Although I would like to move away from the long cure time and heavier smell of the oil-based finish, I just love that look. Looking forward to trying some of the hard wax oils you all have been discussing.
  7. I too own a Dewalt 735. Being retired, I’m in the shop most afternoons for about three hours and have had the machine since 2016. The blades from Dewalt work well for me, but dull to the point of ripping chips out (my signal to do a change) about every project and ½ with the project being a piece of furniture (e.g. dresser, coffee table). They last longer obviously when I’m doing small projects. That sounds not so good, but the blades are relatively cheap compared to their carbide alternatives and a breeze to change or rotate to the second side. I also very much like the difference in speed. For some woods like walnut or soft maple I can use the dimension setting (speed 2) without problems. However, for hard maple I’ll get tear out at that speed which disappears when I move to the slower setting (speed 1). Bottom line, mine has been running well for four years but will probably break this afternoon because I posted this to you all.
  8. Thanks to all for the education. Sounds like you can get a feel for whether or not the final finish will adhere pretty soon. I didn't describe this well in my original post, but I was thinking you might have to wait for a long period of time to determine adherence. Because that isn't so (please correct me if I've misinterpreted here), I'm going to try with a test piece Danish oil (three week cure), and Enduro-var over that. I'll post some pictures as I go. Again, thanks so much everyone. Dave
  9. Richard, I'm assuming that pkinneb's caution about linseed oil not curing is not a concern with Danish oil? It does fully cure? Thanks for weighing in.
  10. Yea, we never get lake effect snow in Pittsburgh in April. Lakes are usually frozen over. Sigh.....
  11. Thanks guys for the linseed oil caution and recommendations. Dave
  12. Chestnut, sorry to be so naïve but what's ARS?
  13. A while back I picked up some Enduro Var from General Finishes. I used it on a number of projects and liked it. However, it does not add the rich amber color that an oil-based finish does. The directions say it should only be used over water stains, dye stains and raw wood. I tried it once on an experimental project for myself over an oil based stain, giving the stain seven days to cure. I’m about three quarters of the year in and everything seems to be holding up. The project I’m working on now is with walnut and I don’t want to use a stain, but don’t want to go straight Enduro Var because when I’ve used it on walnut in the past it fails to produce that deep warm brown you get with oil. So with that brief history, I wonder if I might get away with using linseed oil first, let it cure for an extended period, and then try the Enduro Var. Does anybody have experience over time with this strategy or something similar? The project is big, and I don’t want to screw it up. Thanks guys, Dave
  14. Mike, Chet's advice is very good. I used dowel joinry on a project where the boards receiving the dows were 3/4. I used 3/8 inch dowels, and as I was tapping one of them, blew out one of the surfaces. I was using a shop made jig to drill the holes (wood, also 3/4 inch thick), but things still wandered off center likely through repetitive use of the wooden jig or wondering forced by the grain. Either way, perhaps a dowel size less than 1/2 of the thickness would leave more room for error or using a non wood hole slightly larger than three quarters of an inch to better control the dissent of the drill boring the holes. BTW, although my piece won't have the heavy duty use yours will, I fixed the blowout by grinding around the edges to give it a smoother appearance and filling it with epoxy. Now it just looks like a knot. Good luck and I hope my mistakes are a help.
  15. Thanks Chet. gee-dub, I too like walnut, but my daughter is crazy about it. Since I am rapidly becoming her source for furniture, I suspect a few more walnut trees are going to be found in my daughter's home. I really appreciate the observations from folks about clothing snagging on unfinished wood. It reaffirms my notion of using shellac on the doors. So that leads me to another question. On the glides, I was going to take Chetnut's suggestion of shellac (smoothed with steel wool) followed by Johnson paste wax. Does it matter whether or not the shellac is de-waxed?